corrosion proofing before build XL VG

[rankamateur]

In North America, quite a few Zenith builders seem to leave their aeroplanes nude. They just polish the silver finish and don't paint it. They reckon it saves adding about 12 pounds (about 5.5 kg) to the overall weight. If you don't like painting, that is perhaps one way out.

Big in Europe too where they are trying to keep to 450Kg MTOW. It takes hours and needs on going maintenance to keep it looking good. Every dent shows up on the polished surface too, got to really admire a builder of a polished airframe, great care all the way through the build.

 

 

[rankamateur]

From what I know and have leant. Taking in mind I have just started mine. Take your time. Read the manual and ask lots of questions. Reason being every time you make a mistake and have to un pick rivets you compromise the hole. Be careful. Very careful. Does not matter how good you are they don't like being drilled out. Believe me I'm an expert I've drilled out lots.Lyndon

Try cutting the steel part off the back of the rivet with pinchers before drilling so the drill doesn't run off the steel. It isn't always possible but makes a lot better job where you can.

 

 

[eightyknots]

Big in Europe too where they are trying to keep to 450Kg MTOW. It takes hours and needs on going maintenance to keep it looking good. Every dent shows up on the polished surface too, got to really admire a builder of a polished airframe, great care all the way through the build.

I have seen all kinds of figures about the weight of paint. One person reckons his Zenith CH701 went up 27 pounds (about 12.3 kg) which is quite a bit for a small plane. Perhaps many layers were put on?

 

I myself much prefer a painted plane even if there is a 5.5 kg weight penalty. The question is, what is the lightest way to paint a plane effectively??

 

 

[eightyknots]

 

Here is a Zenith CH-701 from the Zenith forum. The builder chose to paint small parts of the plane leaving the rest bare metal. It tends to show the rivet lines more this way.

 

 

[SDQDI]

Try cutting the steel part off the back of the rivet with pinchers before drilling so the drill doesn't run off the steel. It isn't always possible but makes a lot better job where you can.

If you can't get at the back easily sometimes a careful application of a centre punch (maybe a small pin punch would do the same) can knock the pin through enough to keep it out of the road.

 

 

[facthunter]

Perhaps using lighter colours will save weight. Nev

 

 

[M61A1]

If you can't get at the back easily sometimes a careful application of a centre punch (maybe a small pin punch would do the same) can knock the pin through enough to keep it out of the road.

You are on the money there....the correct way to remove blind rivets is to remove the lock collar if they have one, then back it up with a dolly/bucking bar, then use a hammer and small pin punch to knock the centre through ( enough to drill) before drilling the rivet.

The pain in the arxe there is that usually you need 2 people or three hands.

 

 

[rankamateur]

Thought hammering was a no-no on airframes. Remember the rivet is only supported by a 16 thou sheet and perhaps a 20 thou rib(16 thou on ailerons) when you are tapping with your punch.

 

 

[SDQDI]

Thought hammering was a no-no on airframes. Remember the rivet is only supported by a 16 thou sheet and perhaps a 20 thou rib(16 thou on ailerons) when you are tapping with your punch.

Hence the 'careful' in my post:wink:. I had to drill a few rivets out (who has ever built a plane and not had to drill one out!?) and always used the centre punch method, I must say though that it was more of a gentle tapping than a hammering:bash:

 

 

[M61A1]

Thought hammering was a no-no on airframes. Remember the rivet is only supported by a 16 thou sheet and perhaps a 20 thou rib(16 thou on ailerons) when you are tapping with your punch.

That's why you support the structure from behind any time you go hammering.