Savannahflyer Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 I'm about to start the build of my XL VG and was wondering what everyone has done for corrosion proofing? I know my father has had trouble with corrosion in his Savannah. If anyone else has done any handy modifications to their savannahs which I could or should include into mine please let me know. I plan to put the 912IS into the aircraft. Thanks in advanced. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 If you are going to use alodine, take care not to absorb any into yourself, and if you are on a cattle place be careful with your rinse water disposal so you don't get hung out to dry for contamination. In 1995 I had a chemical contamination, the source was fairly easily identified, but we still couldn't sell another beast for 9 months. Also remove all the printing off the sheets with GP thinners and do all your de-burring before applying the alodine, otherwise you will be handling your treated parts too much, and be filing off a lot of your treatment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy s Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Living up Darwin with the summer humidity I would recommend Alodine all he parts for peace of mind but it is a labour intensive job. It you don't then at least use Cromate undercoat primer. Here's a couple of photos after parts have been dipped. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savannahflyer Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share Posted September 20, 2015 The aircraft will be built and kept down in coastal Victoria (close to salt air. With the big parts did you paint the Alodine on or do you dip it all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thruster87 Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 The aircraft will be built and kept down in coastal Victoria (close to salt air. With the big parts did you paint the Alodine on or do you dip it all? The process is use Aluprep [rubbing the part with scotchbrite ] then dip in Alodine if possible [you can make a shallow large container using timber and lining with plastic] The treated part should then be coated with either a Zinc chromate /Zinc oxide or a two pack epoxy primer [DO NOT USE ETCH PRIMER ON TREATED PARTS AS IT REMOVES THE PROTECTIVE LAYER]. There are other non chromate treatment options out there eg Prekote Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cherk Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 I'm about to start the build of my XL VG and was wondering what everyone has done for corrosion proofing? I know my father has had trouble with corrosion in his Savannah.If anyone else has done any handy modifications to their savannahs which I could or should include into mine please let me know. I plan to put the 912IS into the aircraft. Thanks in advanced. Look up CORTEC, much more user friendly, recommended by ZENITH........Alan Barton in Bendigo probably has stock. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Look up CORTEC, much more user friendly, recommended by ZENITH........Alan Barton in Bendigo probably has stock. That sounds like some good stuff to corrosion-proof your aircraft with: http://www.cortecvci.com/Products/products.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy s Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 The aircraft will be built and kept down in coastal Victoria (close to salt air. With the big parts did you paint the Alodine on or do you dip it all? It has to be dip for a period of 10-15 mins . A chap I know dip all the smaller bits in a wheelie bin and the sheeting he just made up of of framing pine an area big enough to accommodate the sheeting which was line with black plastic. Just notice Thruster has already anwser your question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 I used protec 408. Two pack and is excellent. Not as nasty as the best products eg strontiom chromate from ppg but I was not prepared to use nasty chemicals. Degrease scourer pad metho and spray. It's a perfect base for single stage two pack for your top coat. Ferrours and non ferrous But only prime when you ready to paint. You can do a wet on wet for even better results. Remember once the primer is about 36 hrs old it's no longer primer and should not have a top coat on it. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yenn Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 What material are you using? Does the cladding have a pure aluminium coating. If so i would consider priming all the faying surfaces just befor rivetting. It seems to work on the RVs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savannahflyer Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 It's all aluminium on aluminium I was thinking I just had to clean and prime where the panels come together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgmwa Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 I used Wattyl Super-Etch grey primer. Available in both rattle cans and tins. Easy to apply and seems to be well regarded in the home-builder world. rgmwa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 It's all aluminium on aluminium I was thinking I just had to clean and prime where the panels come together. This is what I did, But I live near Moree not the coast. I primed all mating surfaces and used the ICP black as well, this gives a layer of primer under the rivet heads. If you look closely at corrosion on Savannahs it is usually along badly de-burred sheet edges where the burrs poke through the paint or around rivet heads, take care with your de-burring which ever priming system you choose. If you are really worried about corrosion don't land on the beach along the waterline. Landcruisers go rusty if you drive them like that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 I used superetch from wattyl as my etch primer and also used plenty of the black goop on all overlaps. The Savannah has been flying for 3 and a half years and is hangared at Caboolture not far from the ocean. I also fly over the beach and ocean around Bribie Island and Caloundra and accross to Moreton Island and there is not one bit of corrosion on my aircraft anywhere that has been super etched. All painting was 2 pac from Protec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Did you do the Scotchbrite bit, Mark, or just wash and Wattyl etch prime? And was that inside and out prior to assembly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgwilson Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 I used wattle etch primer on mating surfaces & then rubbed the entire surface with maroon scotchbrite pads and Prekote as recommended by the manufacturer. Priming was then done within 12 hours. The good thing about Prekote is that it is non toxic unlike alodine. The bad thing about it is the price. I was lucky to get some with another order from a major aviation supplier to a Lame. Cost about $100.00 for 1 US gallon (can cost up to $250.00) but I did the whole aircraft & still have about half of it left. It foams up to a lather then you just wash it off with water. If the water forms a film on the surface, i.e does not web or bead the the surface is ready for priming. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 My. Two cents. You can't paint without keying it. I used Brown 3m about 300 quite corse. Easy fast leaves a great key. Six hrs before painting wipe with metho. Use a two pack. finish is superb. I use a 1 mm nozzle hvlp touch up gun. Perfect for 90 percent and a little slow on the big stuff. Fine finish and you can keep the primer to minimum. Going to all that trouble worth another 5 mins work with two pack Just be careful not to loose your part numbers. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Did you rub it flat dry or wet. Two pack rub it dry with a much corser paper than say acrylic. Should rub easy as. Two pack can be painted with much corser prep work Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Really good to get this feedback from a number of people. Thank you Mark, Lyndon & KG. While I'm not afraid of hard work, my situation is that we've been renovating an old country place over the last 10yrs. I've done almost all the work myself, but i've come to the end of the line with the stripping and painting of the outside: I got 3 sides done and something inside me broke, so we have a contractor coming to do the 4th. I uplifted my kit this Friday, and have unpacked much of it into smaller storage while I get The Shed built. I keep pacing out the lounge etc and the wife keeps shaking her head nervously. I can't wait to get at it. But if I never see another pot of paint again, I'll be a very happy man. So. I guess my question for the forum members is this: What would be my best route to a reasonable paint finish? I'm not trying for Build of the Year award here, though I think and hope the build will be tidy. I will need to learn to use the gun, but I think I can do that okay. After that I just plain want to fly, with what time I may be lucky to have left to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 I'm no expert but all the time is in preparation. Eg getting it ready for primer. It's a lot of work. It makes a nice job if go this way. Remember don't prime painted surfaces as prime to top coat has as 36 hour window. So you will be priming on primer. Weight is not good. Depends on what you use but wet on wet will eliminate sanding the primer. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 From what I know and have leant. Taking in mind I have just started mine. Take your time. Read the manual and ask lots of questions. Reason being every time you make a mistake and have to un pick rivets you compromise the hole. Be careful. Very careful. Does not matter how good you are they don't like being drilled out. Believe me I'm an expert I've drilled out lots. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Thank you, Lyndon, point taken. It's good to have so much experience available here. And I'm several weeks off starting, but from what I've seen so far, I'll have plenty of questions. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Probably not as much as I'm asking. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Really good to get this feedback from a number of people. Thank you Mark, Lyndon & KG. NorWhile I'm not afraid of hard work, my situation is that we've been renovating an old country place over the last 10yrs. I've done almost all the work myself, but i've come to the end of the line with the stripping and painting of the outside: I got 3 sides done and something inside me broke, so we have a contractor coming to do the 4th. I uplifted my kit this Friday, and have unpacked much of it into smaller storage while I get The Shed built. I keep pacing out the lounge etc and the wife keeps shaking her head nervously. I can't wait to get at it. But if I never see another pot of paint again, I'll be a very happy man. So. I guess my question for the forum members is this: What would be my best route to a reasonable paint finish? I'm not trying for Build of the Year award here, though I think and hope the build will be tidy. I will need to learn to use the gun, but I think I can do that okay. After that I just plain want to fly, with what time I may be lucky to have left to me. In North America, quite a few Zenith builders seem to leave their aeroplanes nude. They just polish the silver finish and don't paint it. They reckon it saves adding about 12 pounds (about 5.5 kg) to the overall weight. If you don't like painting, that is perhaps one way out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now