skippydiesel

I believe you are correct, if not factually, certainly 😈 Oooooh! certainly woke up this sleepy (parochial) Forum😈😁

This Forum is international - learn to read posts😈

No State/No Country -Typical Mexican living in the Centre of the Known Universe😈

Did just that - nothing that had a male/female cigar lighter & USB as per the UGREEN 60712 above. Have purchased the UGREEN 60712 ($23 + delivery)- yet to test/try.

You must fly from a sealed runway - all grass ay my end. Clean every bug, fuel & exhaust stain off the aircraft - do a few TO/landings and it looks like is never been detailed😈

"...................there’s little to clean"

Are not paraffins & butane hydrocarbons? If so keep away from polycarbonates.

Not all windscreen are made of the same plastic. Polycarbonate windscreen must not be touched by hydrocarbons. Hydrocarbons (eg petrol) are very likly to cause crazing/misting and even cracking of the material. Hydrocarbons are found in some polishes/cleaners. No matter the windscreen, if you want to minimise scratches & polishing marks, it is important to remove as much material (dust/squished bugs) as possible BEFORE polishing. I recomend plenty of water (to flush away any potential abrasives), followed by a damp/wet cloth / chamois, then whatever polishing you want to do. NOTE: Polycarbonate windscreens are particularly vulnerable to being marked.

What do people use on their propeller?? I try get as much dried bug guts off with dilute detergent/water. I follow this with a good quality automotive polish (usually 2-3 applications). Finally apply a layer of Carnauba wax, to leading edges and rear surface - this I let dry and do not polish off. The idea is that the dried wax will "shed" bugs more readily than the polished surface. I think it works. I have also used this technique, on all leading edges, when on an away (multi day) trip - seems to save a lot of cleaning when I get home.

Mostly water from a spray bottle, wiped down with damp chamois, followed by dry polishing cloth (microfiber). Every now & again I use ViewPlex, skip the chamois, go straight to the microfiber . What do people use on their propeller?? I try get as much dried bug guts off with dilute detergent/water. I follow this with a good quality automotive polish (usually 2-3 applications). Finally apply a layer of Carnauba wax, to leading edges and rear surface - this I let dry and do not polish off. The idea is that the dried wax will "shed" bugs more readily than the polished surface. I think it works. I have also used this technique, on all leading edges, when on an away (multi day) trip - seems to save a lot of cleaning when I get home.

What! No bugs on the leading edges? Where in Australia do you fly?

I agree the engine likly needs a good clean BUT be very careful how you go about it . Got a lot of electrical "stuff" in /on/around the engine (bay), that may not be happy with an overly enthusiastic clean. Some WD40 (or similar), followed by judicious application of compressed air, toothbrush can be useful for stubborn build ups (probably get a new one for the teeth). The 5 year rubber replacement (hoses/springs, etc) will certainly help in giving it that "cared for" look.

"The outside of the engine looks terrible. I need to find a very good aluminium cleaner. " Older Rotax 9's tend to be a tad dull (exception being the rocker boxes). I don't mind mine being dull, but they must be reasonably clean.

Not all overseas suppliers, of Rotax parts, are bound by Rotax regional agreements. Often the up front price is very competitive BUT the often very painful sting, is the delivery charge.😈

The RF noise thing is real however on my last aircraft I had at least three diffrent automotive plugs going and never had any interference. - just luck I guess.

With the Flood carburettor kit - be sure you know what is include before purchase. I think you are correct about the Gates 6.3mmID (1/4"). Unless there is something unusual about your Rotax installation, the 6.3 will be correct Note the fuel line clamps at the end of the flyer below: https://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/-/media/files/gates-au/automotive/brochures/cooling-system-and-hose-products/gates-fuel-hose-flyer--june-2018.pdf I find getting the correct hose ID to be no problem but working out how much length you need, allowing for the inevitable mistakes is always a challenge. If the Repco person/store is any good, you should be able to negotiate a discount.

Very nice Freizeitpilot BUT need the cigar/cigarette lighter female plug for GPS. Already have two CO detectors in the aircraft - one on all the time (has the ability to record max ppm) and one I keep forgetting to charge up.😈 Found the above charger, instock, for $23 from i-Tech, https://www.i-tech.com.au/acbugn60712-ugreen-60712-84w-dual-port-car-charger-space-416314.html

I seek your comment/recommendations on a 12V charger, that will supply a mini iPad (Lightning / USB A ) and a hand held (mounted) GPS navigator (dedicated cigar style male plug). The two devices are to be connected to "ship" power from TO - Landing (anything from 1 - 4 hrs at a time) I have a single 12V female "cigar" plug available. I would like a single adapter to supply both from the above female The adapter shown, seems to have all the right features (Amazon, currently unavailable) https://www.amazon.sa/-/en/UGREEN-Charger-Cigarette-Charging-Compatible/dp/B086DHWB8Z - what think you? If possible, I would like a system that "shuts down" or reduces amps , when iPad has a full charge and /or the adapter reaches a high (?) temperature . The GPS male plug already has this.

Earth/Ground/Negative - pretty much all the same in 12V circuit. Terminology varies with country/upbringing. Probably should have taken "holy orders" - you have sort of made my point - connect everything electrical (all bodies/housings/mounting brackets) to a negative return circuit. You will never regret it and may even come to "Thank the Lord" you went down this track (I even do my cars like this )😈

Nice clear schematics Danny - Although not shown, would still run a dedicated negative/earth return circuit connecting to the device body. Although chassi/airframe returns are common, I don't like their potential, over time, for a little bit of oxidisation /paint/dirt/movement to increase the return resistance, in some cases, to the point of nil continuity. The cost & weight of dedicated return circuit (usually in parallel with the airframe) is negligible.

I ground my rectifier/regulator case by; Fixing it to the metal airframe Running a dedicated earth/ground wire, from one of the fixing screws, to a negative bus I strongly recomend the installation/use of a dedicated negative/earth return circuit for all 12 volt systems.

Maaaate! It's ALL pests & diseases. A few examples you may have heard of - fire ants, varroa mite, fire blight apple mosaic virus, rust etc etc Australians are way way too laid back about organic quarantine - we used to pride ourselves in having a clean environment.

The "owner" builds the hanger and leases the land - check out what Wedderburn have done very successfully.

Moneybox - Rotax have specifications for Boost Pump maximum fuel pressure. Your aircraft manufacturer may have a recommended pump to do the job. I would stick with the recommendation unless you have good cause to do something else. Your existing pump is likly to have Maker, Model. Part Number somewhere on it (If it a Facet it is normally embossed , not always, on the mounting bracket Should you be unable to determine the existing pump you should start by reading the following" Always with reference to your engine ( 912 ULS 100 hp?) Installation Manual, Chapter 73-00-00 , Engine Fuel & Control, Pages 7-8, Boost pump Max pressure 4.5 psi Operators Manual, Chapter 5, Performance & Fuel Consumption, Pages 8, 5.2) Fuel Consumption, Specific consumption at max. continuous performance, 27L/hr It not quit as simple as just purchasing a pump that will deliver 4.5 psi. Your aircraft likely has a return fuel line with restrictor jet somewhere in the line. ie the pump must accommodate this flow. The maximum fuel your engine will burn is 27L/hr, the pump must accommodate this flow. The Boost pump should deliver at least 2 psi - 4.5 psi in work, accommodating both carburettor & return line flow, if it is to act as an emergency fuel supply system, say in early Climb Out (Max power). Most aircraft in the recreational class will use a Facet Cube pump https://facet-purolator.com/specifications/

Rotax offer some specifications , other times recommended manufacturer/product. For the latter it is usually possible to obtain the specifications from the manufacturer, for the recommended product eg Continental supply oil hose for Rotax 912 engines - you can only purchase the specific oil hose from Rotax BUT Continental kindly publises the performance specifications for the given hose, which can then be used to find an equal or better performing hose from an alternative reputable supplier eg Gates.