skippydiesel

That's when your earlier radio technique is hopefully in action - "listening out" - What is the active runway(s)? If its not obvious ,ask. Then when over the top, double check movements

And yet again , a another faux pa (1990's)

Thermocouple's. Check out westach.com. Seem to have a good range/reputation . They also "do" other "stuff"

So you have a philosophical objection to assisting?

The following references might just get the attention of the more tech savvy and I hope a recommendation for a second (preferably low cost ) sensor. https://www.radiantinstruments.com/prod ... obe-system https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xyC8iw-iGU http://www.sonexbuilders.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=2868 https://vansairforce.net/community/show ... p?t=128605 My son (mainly) & I have worked out most if not all of the deductions contained in the above. We think we know what the solution is (a second pressure sensor T'd off the tank breather) BUT not sure of the most cost effective way of achieving this ($263US + delivery from Aircraft Spruce is a tad steep for a sensor )

So no fellow Belite Fuel Level users out there???

Dis I mis the obvious supply solution in my very quick read through - E mail B Flood with the following part number for an availability & price. Rotax Oil Radiator parts - 4 nuts on part number 242873 2 N 242873 ..2 HEX NUT M22x1.5 (4)h (4)h (4)h (4)h (4)h (4)h (4)h

Your "arrival" technique, was what was taught to me, in the erly 1919"s. - Arrive well above circuit height (+ 1000 ft) , call "over the top etc" joining intentions, descend on "dead side" to circuit height, join as stated. This gives the pilot time to "suss out" - traffic, windspeed direction, etc AND gives other active aircraft your position, relative to a known geographic location, altitude & intentions.

Wow! Talk about calm & composed, what a lady! I tips me lid to her. May have missed it but no emergency call, fuel off, tighten seat (lap only?) belt, before landing . She was lucky the ground was not soft - potential nose over.

Supposedly. About 8 years ago, I needed to replace my regulator. Did the usual search for alternatives (inc Ducati) to the costly Rotax offering - 0! squeezed the stone and out came a bloody Rotax Reg. I tend to err on the side of caution and only purchase alternatives if they have the same part number/meet the same or better specifications. My technical understanding doesn't go deep enough to make choices outside this approach. The person submitting the JD regulator, to Rotax Owners Forum, claimed it was a direct swop, down to the spade connector arrangement. The Rotax Regulator PN 965349 is about $175US - if the submitter is on the ball with this, that's saving of around $134US Rotax JD - one of many similar offerings

Should have added to the above - submitter claims is JD voltage regulator cost about $40 US. Please note the my tone of scepticism but never know it might just be a perfectly good regulator for a fraction of the Rotax price.

Is it my poor understanding/imagination that the aircraft departing to the NE will be taking noise abatement tracks whereas those departing to the SW will not. Assuming similar to The Oaks, predominant wind direction is W & SW so I would expect Rwy 23 to be used most often . This nearest projected "flight path" has the departing aircraft at 13300ft, so well above any aircraft using The Oaks, Camden airfields. I think my greatest concern is the potential for higher "traffic" densities in what is already fairly congested air space.

I have had one Rotax 912ULS aircraft that I fitted with Gemini radiators hose by Gates. They came pre bent/formed and needed trimming for length. If I remember correctly (always a concern) I had one Gemini length on one side and two on the other. On the two side, the hose was joined using a Gates radiator hose joiner - system worked well for me over near 900 hrs and 10 years. As this is supposed to be a site for alternative fittings, I would share this tit bit from the Rotax Owners Forum - without any evidence, one contributor has claimed years of service from a John Deer voltage regulator. If you Google this you will see a number of quite substantial solid state regulators, under various part number, most of which look similar.

At last someone confessing to have had experience with one of these edifices - Thanks Womble. Googled it - looks & sounds like "the goods" but then so did my iTECH 2000A . Self Discharge: .2V/month. What does this mean in a practical sense? I would have thought a % loss might be more meaningful. Surely it doesn't mean the battery will go for 60 months befog zero charge available or even that it will take 5 months to drop to 11V ????. What does: "600 Amp Peak Clamp Power /300 Amp Start Power" mean in real life??? Etc. Etc

Have already done this (as per last aircraft). Anderson /battery can supply power to refuelling pump and can be used for battery charging and jump starting.- "all good" as they say. I plan to tour (as soon as my cooling issues have been completely resolved) - Thinking ahead - What if I am in some remote location (no 12V power supply around)? and my start battery is weak, for some reason. I know, I will carry one of those new fangled emergency start devices (advertised as small/light weight/capable of multiple start attempts on a D8, will power your small 12V device and charge your phone, all while lighting your camp ground, strob/blinding every living thing for k's around and holding its charge for a couple of lifetimes 🙃). Did my research (obviously inadequate) invested (there goes the supper!) in an iTECH 2000A from a reputable 😜 Australian ( WA is Australia?) company only to find the device is a dud! Am I unlucky - the only iTECH 2000A amongst thousands to be a dud? - or are they all duds? (including every other similar device?) This is why I started this conversation - Do I "invest" in another highly recommended (by the Forum) device? Do I just hope that I don't find myself in such a predicament out beyond the Black Stump?

Has anyone heard of one of these power packs self immolating?

So where are these jump packs made? - Mine came from WA supplier ( iTECH) but other than colour, looks just like my friends unit - same shape, size, claimed capacity. His was about 1/2 the price of mine and did not come in a fancy carry bag

Spelling has been a life long battle - If intended message transmitted, has been received correctly, communication had been archived. No I don't have any answers - These devises are almost ubiquitous and yet no one is volunteering their experience - where/what is the problem?

True its the manufacturers choice/marketing point BUT their realy was no "dilemma" for the pilot., he chose (badly) to bypass, likely safe, landing options in favour of getting back to the aircrafts maintenance field/facility

This is the original question(s). I cant see how any of it has been answered...... either no one much uses them........, is too embarrassed to say they do, .......... their emergency start pack falls so far short of their expectations, that they wont recommend or admit to owning it

It seems to me that the pilot in the above incident had a dose of " get there itis" After declaring his aircraft was in difficulty (not an emergency) he chose to try and make it to the aircrafts maintenance field, rather than land on a closer runway(s). This is a clear case of pilot error and has little if anything to do with the desirability or not of fitting a BRS .

Sorry I don't follow. 1." do you know of or are able to recommend a "Quality" "start pack"? 2. What do you mean by "hook-up your jump-pack then watch the 'power cable detatch by the heat meltiing the 'soft soldered ' connections" - I connect direct to the aircraft start battery. 3. "The way to work them is to ' charge the leadacid battery" - I was under the impression that these devises would not charge a start battery and are principally designed to assist a weak/partially discharged start battery - please expand.

How about we get back to the original topic instead of diving down another rabbit hole before there have been many responses

Okay - seems I was wrong. Still I would very much prefer to start a Rotax 912ULS using the starter motor

I dint think a capacitor was the way to go but you add all the scientific reason against. What do you think of the emergency jump packs? Would you recommend any?