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Blueadventures

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Everything posted by Blueadventures

  1. Try Bolly props, i'm pretty sure that is the size they use for their spinner kits (spinner to backing plate). I have some 3/32 rivets I'm happy to post to you. Cheers.
  2. Or ... visit a pawnbroker and ask to use their gold scales. (They may read under weight 😊🤣so not good to check if floats exceed weight, eg 6grm may weight as 4.5g on Pawn scales🙃🙂😁.)
  3. Maybe moderator can change title to ‘Misplaced’
  4. May not help; but could, is the antenna ground plane earthed to the negative terminal of the battery?
  5. Also consider the cost of the parts and postage and get a quote from Wal to service. He is reasonable and will do 100%. the new float brackets need to be set correct; there is a tool for that and worth buying if your doing them up yourself. Also Wal will check if any corrosion on the float needle seat, if any corrosion there fuel will pour out of the vent hose, very important not to have an issue there. Sorry if my comments are a pain, but just sharing from my experiences. Your first flights are to be fun and enjoyable. Give me a call if you want to know more. Text first or leave a message and I'll call back if you call. Cheers.
  6. The most usual 'o' ring to break up on removal on the bing is the one for the idle mixture screw, its in the external body so most likely subjected to the most heat. They can also be damaged when fitting over the hex head as screwdriver slots get a little bit sharpened. Years ago I invested in the rotax tool for fitting this 'o' ring; very useful. Also a minimal smear of lithium grease assists fitting the 'o' rings.
  7. Part of the 5 year rubber. I only mentioned above because I have serviced and chased issues with a number of carbs and find long time in service 'o' rings are at times hard, worn and break into pieces when the part they are on is removed. So if you don't have new ones on hand you need to order and await delivery. I keep some parts on hand as I assist owners at times. Cheers Mike.
  8. HI Danny If your good to clean carby's; you can check them at the field; allow 3 to 4 hours. Any dismantle of the fuel route components would require at the very minimum the 'O' rings that fit the idle jet, idle mixture needle and the mixing tube (Diagram 'O' rings #9 x four and #5 x two 'O' rings) as you are doing two carbs. That will allow checking the major fuel route and metering but not include the enrichers. This will ensure you can reassemble the same day and test. My recommendation is to fit a carb kit to each carb.
  9. Were you still at low rpm, say about 2000 to 2200 rpm or had you increased the rpm a bit at the 30 sec time.
  10. I had an engine (R912UL 80hp) sit while repairing undercarriage. Then ran rough. 6 weekends of trouble shooting; new o rings, checking for air leaks etc. Eventually found a build up of crap up around the mixer tube; looked like an o ring. Then ran absolutely great. There are many reasons for rough running. another is your carb bowl vent lines and how they are set (you don't want to extend into slip stream as will pull fuel. You must take the time and verify the floats are correct and not heavy. Enjoy the build and carb sorting; look forward to hearing about first fly.
  11. Being new build, engine with hours on it and been sitting. Best to do carb clean, service and mechanical balance as per manual. You don’t want surprises or extra distractions during first and during the next 25 hours.
  12. Did you do correct mechanical balance, o rings dry out and crack, what floats model there is a bulletin on them. Can sink and flood engine. I’d get a carb kit through them by an experienced person, not hard but follow the manual.
  13. For info there is a capacitor for this Jab 3300 engine fitup (Sonex). Follow R lead from rec/regulator.
  14. A wiring diagram for your model will say if one is fitted.
  15. Blue or Black in colour, about 35mm round and 75 mm long. Most likely on firewall inside cabin side but could be engine side.
  16. Have you got a capacitor (25,000mfu type) in your circuit and if so is it still serviceable? (they do ultimate noise) My trig needs internal adjustment for David Clark head sets for example. Don't give up, yes it is frustrating at times but must bust through that thought.
  17. Have you adjusted the internal settings, don’t have anything plugged into your usb next time you use the radio.
  18. For sale is a Kiev propellor hub for 3 blades and two blades. (One blade was bumped (rolled) onto a car.) The blade showed a crease on its flat surface and deemed unserviceable as a precaution. Only 8 hours in service on Rotax. Would suit sourcing a third blade. Inquiries at Kiev revealed they do not make these blades anymore. My friend who owns the blades has fitted an E-Props.
  19. Great show, weather, food and crowd. IMG_8982.mov IMG_8985.mov IMG_8984.mov
  20. Skip if you reread my post I have not said I need to remove the gear box to maintain the sprag clutch. I was referring to building on my tool inventory . At the moment it includes tools for example flywheel pullers (long and short) for use to access the sprag clutch. What puller type did you use to access the sprag clutch you maintained?
  21. Skip you read too deep into things and your comment is kinda like mine as your unsubstantiated comment that the 912 g/b will definitely last 600 plus hours. I was just saying I’m readying myself for when I need to do an inspection. Like I have the pullers to change a sprag clutch when the time comes. Being a maintainer of machinery I build on my tool inventory as my background called on being self sufficient as much as possible. There have been the failures as I mentioned in my post, in the real world; so you may need to look in different areas to gain the information.
  22. I am not about knocking engines and I read there are some 912 ULS engines needing gearbox overhaul at less than 600 hours and not Avgas related. I’m presently putting together a tool box for dismantling the 912 gearbox so I am ready for any such work. Not saying all just some suffer this for some reason; and can be the luck of the draw, a Friday or Monday assembled g/b or the oil used etc. cheers
  23. The Rotax ones a few years back were made in Austria and probably still made there. In the UK they had available unbranded oil filters made on the same production line runs that Rotax were made; about 1/3 the price. I bought 6 of them as they had been in use for 10 years and no issue and were sourced by a Rotax dealer back then. Had a sticker on them and made in Austria on bottom. Just for info and may still be available.
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