Blueadventures

Hi Mark FYI Paul at Flylight just sent me this info from his testing on a Nynja;- "I have been testing one, we have put in for French approval for it and working towards U.K. approval - I will be interested in how you find it. It has a strong ‘constant speed effect’ - it’s a bit like an automatic gearbox - allowing high RPM at low speed in the climb without high cruise RPM. It achieves that at the expense of some blade efficiency at the lower speeds ( it’s a kind of aerodynamic slipping clutch thing) but the idea is that it allows the engine to release more power and give a net gain. A prop without this effect might be more climb efficient if set to fine pitch, but would then be revving too high for the cruise. The answer of course is an inflight variable pitch / constant speed prop, but they are very expensive, complex and normally heavy too. It’s a very smooth prop, which is nice, and doesn’t have any annoying harmonics ( unlike some others we have tried that claim similar effects), and is super light which means lower rotational intertia and a nice soft stop. But re do your weight and balance after changing - it might throw you out if the aft limit if a parachute is also fitted! I have mine (912ULS) set so it pulls around 5300 in the climb at 75mph. An interesting effect is that if you pull the nose up and slow down to 60mph the ‘clutch slips’ and it revs up to 5400 or more - but you can feel vibration then from the stalled blade flow. At 75 it’s super smooth. If I leave it at wide open throttle and put the nose down to level off, the RPM stays at 5300 all the way up to 115mph or so and only after that starts to rise hitting just under 5500 at 130mph. Cruise around 4000 RPM for 85 - 100mph at around 4400. Kievprop takes a lot of beating for a very economical good performing prop. ( and we really hope they can survive the war and continue) This slots in at a higher spend level but with some interesting features and enhancements that unlock some advantages."

Thanks Mark. Agree, within 0.1 at present. Also use the laser dot to verify the pitch comparison between the blades. Also I take 4 secs at least to bring on power at take , off and go arounds etc. My DUC prop was same re cavitation, their operation advice says not to jam onto full throttle quickly. I'm sure both DUC and E-Prop use similar tricky resins in the blade manufacturing. Thanks for heads up on landing roll. I'll advise my experience and most likely won't have too much info tomorrow as have to do some work at a house. And there is a heap of wind and rain coming from Wednesday; hence doing things first up in morning. Appreciate your information and advice.

Yes 175 and 20mm spacer is perfect, same clearance as the DUC had between backplate and cowl.

Willdo, thanks. paperwork said 25* have 25.1 and need to torque up in morning. Had a tool missing to do the M8 nuts the other day.

All good T88; yep c clamp kept sliding off square. Was glad I took the sash clamp. The ring spanner end worked but an appropriate length of steel tube would be best to allow the exit of the lug. The eprop has epoxy lumps that pull into the prop flange so the prop lugs aren't required. Cheers.

Hi Marty The ones I've installed have a small washer over the spring curl to prevent the rivet end becoming loose or the spring clip coming off in time. Cheers Mike

If your after some finger gloves for the cool weather flying, Anaconda store have them at $15 a pair. Bought a pair today.

Fitted eprop onto the Nynja's Rotax 912 ULS ready to torque and fly tomorrow all going well, rain to stay away. Needed to extract the prop lugs and used a 'C' clamp first then a sash clamp was best.

Fitted eprop onto the Rotax 912 ULS ready to torque and fly tomorrow all going well, rain to stay away. Needed to extract the prop lugs and used a 'C' clamp first then a sash clamp was best.

That's the push to full and pull to idle setup in the image.

This bolly on Lightwing is 24* . He will now fly it and maybe readjust depending on rpm etc. For yours as bolly manual says or ask on forum for similar installations on 701's. Or could set at say 24* and see what performance you get tied down. Bolly will say approximately what change a one degree course or fine adjustment will make to rpm. I have this written in my Skyfox notes from years ago when I had a bolly on my taildragger. Details not handy tonight. JG's propeller tests may shed some light. At the end on the day a bit like trial and adjustment when you adjust the pitch and balance the propellers pitch to be the same for most minimal vibration etc.

This image shows a laser pointer onto the hangar floor. 2 & 3 were very close and 1 was way out (1 degree). After adjustment 1 was between 2 & 3 so happy with that. Your can also measure the distance from blade to floor measure the gap between the dots and calculate the angle using that one angle is 90*.

Their webb site is very detailed with tyre and tube specs and other useful detail.

Have also pm'ed today as well. Cheers

Hi As I plan some trip flights I want to buy a satellite phone skin for my iphone 13. What plans do I need to purchase so I will have use when needed. Mainly for urgent contacts in remote areas and short calls. Thanks in advance for any replies.

It does in the report refer to auto parts being purchased a few years before fitting. Suggest a better re read and digest of the info.

Fully agree; from what have been told over 600kg factory built will be required to be maintained by LAME or RAAus endorsed equilivant. And I recon the hurdle height for RPL of experience and qualifications will be more difficult than training as a LAME.

Many things and materials have their own fail points; your mentioned example nylon when under manufacture has a content of trapped water, over time this dries out (in the use of engine coolant systems this will occur from outside in) and this leads to cracking and eventual failure. Therefore any use of nylon fittings in the close fitting engine cowls will require similar periodic inspection in similar manner to metal parts. For my personal peace of mind I will continue to use and recommend metal hose joiners with rubber or silicone hose etc in coolant systems of owner built RAA aircraft. I hope my comments are of benefit to BirdDog and others. Cheers.

To date no electrolysis wastage or damage seen last 5 years and no reports with others advised by the manufacturer. Areas were wastage or deposit accumulation will / could occur is at all the rotax engine coolant pipe ends, water pump, the expansion tank, the factory supplied long connection pipes. To date nil so 'Castrol Radicool' is doing its job. Coolant due for replacement in May so that will provide an opportunity to inspect the condition of the system pipework as hoses will be changed out on some of the hose connections and the Yes marine sector experiences a lot of such damage from a large variety of reasons and contributing causes. Being a marine surveyor / marine engineer I have much direct experience and knowledge in this area regarding aluminium hulls and vessel fluid systems. Just answering BirdDog's questions with information that may assist him with his current maintenance task. Cheers.

Alloy heads so alloy, plus manufacturer of Skyranger provide a set of two alloy pipes so you just need the join hoses. Other manufactures should do the same as it over time saves cost of the long runs of hose required 5 yearly and no hoses to flop around where ever not supported. I have images of the pipes in the Nynja thread.

Re 'B' agree and with home made in s/s best to place a few low height weld bumps to prevent slippage. I myself now buy (pay the bit extra) for purpose made alloy joiners that have groves to prevent slippage. Cheers

Yep, plastic on firewall is overflow collector bottle.

This is the 912 expansion tank. The outlet on the right side (yellow plug) is 25mm and goes to the radiator and the others plumb to the engine heads and are the smaller size. This is why I asked if you have the 25mm size that your chasing for a usual rotax radiator setup. Cheers

Hi BirdDog have you measured the nipples, as Rotax radiator for coolant is usually 25mm between the radiator cap resivour, radiator and pump. The other coolant hoses are the smaller size i.d. For bends best to attend at shop and sort through the coolant hoses. Then make note for future buying. A lot of ford hoses are 25mm, if that is the size you actually need. Cheers.

Hi Marty KItplanes have an article on how to make silicone fire wall boots. Out todays email alerts, do you get Kitplanes emails? Cheers