Marty_d

https://www.abc.net.au/news/science/2023-05-03/catl-announces-battery-to-make-electric-aviation-possible/102289310

Oh sorry, I meant the actual hose. Yes the orifice is small but wondering what size line you run - 1/4 inch?

Oil pressure gauge on mine is electric from the sender on the motor. Fuel pressure is still a pipe to the gauge though. @IBob, what size is the tube going from the reduced orifice to the fuel pressure gauge?

I put metal fuel line in mine, bought a little beading tool from Aeroflow - AF98-2020 - PIPE BEADING TOOL SUIT 3/8" That allows you to make your own barbs at the end of the line, then hose clamp regular fuel line to it.

A Tasmanian thought that he could carve a joystick grip out of wood Said his wife with a laugh "If YOUR joystick was half As big as that one, it might be quite good!"

Why couldn't Westland think of a different name, given they'd already built a Whirlwind?

Again I have to thank Peter, he spent most of Saturday working on my wiring. At the end of the day most of the instruments were connected, and I got to turn the ignition switch and see the trim indicator, volt meter and hour meter on the tacho (0.0) light up. Then one more turn and the Rotax turned over (very briefly!) Today I spent a few hours making a wooden grip for the Y-stick (trouble is, now I'll have to make another one!) I used a bit of scrap hardwood I found in the shed, no idea what it is but I think it'll have a nice reddish shade when I varnish it. Fits my hand, but makes my wife laugh every time she sees it, for some reason...

Neither now thanks Danny - I have bought an Ebay radiator, looks ok. And someone gave me an oil cooler. So I have both - just not the fittings on the oil cooler. Hi Glen, oil can is the original Rotax (came new with the engine, when the flying school swapped out the Rotax they didn't change fitted items such as muffler and oil can, so gave me the new ones with the 2nd hand motor). It's got 2 90 degree barb fittings with rotating female nut attached (very similar to the one on the right in the photo above) which pulls them down onto the can fittings. Hi Skippy, the photo is out of the CH701 engine installation instructions, I've just got the same oil cooler without the fittings. I'd be interested in buying your spare fittings, will PM you. Thanks!

Thanks Skippy! Are they the ones with the male thread on the outside that screw into the top of the oil cooler fittings - circled in pic below?

Thanks Danny, hopefully the original will do the job.

I need to put another tap on the fuel line. I have a tap for each wing tank, but they're above the header tank which holds 7 litres. If there was an engine bay fire I wouldn't want fuel continuing to be provided.

If my joystick is in danger of burning, I've got bigger problems than what the grip is made of...

An update - on Saturday and yesterday @nomadpete has generously given his time and knowledge to wire up my instrument panel. Almost done - it was fantastic to see the elevator trim moving and the little LED position indicator working after Peter figured out how to wire up the servo. (Ray Allen don't make it easy, they start off at the servo with the correctly colour-coded wires but then join them to the 5-wire cable which goes the length of the fuselage - in different colours!) Thanks again Peter!

Some of the wooden ones available look good. Maybe I'll try carving one.

Aircraft Spruce sells grips with 1 1/8" hole. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/hmbltcontrolstick.php

I like those extruded "D" leading edges and spars. Certainly beats hours with an air solid riveter and bucking bar putting L extrusions on the top and bottom of a 0.025" web.

Would ditching and submersion in sea water automatically write off the aircraft, or could it be restored?

What are you going to do for seat cushions Mark?

Good on her. Both uninjured and no one else hurt, can't ask for much more than that when the fan stops.

Hang gliders have sharp sweep back and no tail. Tips are negative incidence compared to the centre section. Probably wouldn't translate well to a faster aircraft though.

Correct me if I'm mistaken, but guessing that a starter motor would be a relatively safe part to go aftermarket. Mostly it's used on the ground, so if it doesn't work it's not life threatening. (If you're desperately trying to restart in the air it's another matter of course, but what would be the odds of your starter motor failing at exactly the same time as whatever stopped your engine?)

Got an oil cooler (standard for Rotax) thanks to the generosity of a forum member who had a spare.

Fortunately that's about 50mph faster than I'll be going!

Used to fly hang gliders with a bloke who'd have a choof before flying. Didn't seem to affect his flying but he did occasionally forget to drop his feet out of the bag before landing.

Big, slow, slow... don't have the figures on me. People with similar aircraft - CH750, Sav - assure me that the standard size is sufficient.