Marty_d

Help required please... I want to create the fuel manifold as shown by the Rotax Installation Manual, (image below). Banjo bolts are easily accessible as are the fittings. They're available in M10 or M12 in various threads which I can tap myself. So all I need to manufacture is the block itself which clamps onto the crossover pipe. Essentially it's just a solid block with a threaded vertical hole right through for two banjo bolts to go into, and an unthreaded hole for the crossover pipe to go through with a small bolt to tighten it onto the pipe. Questions: 1. What would this be best manufactured from? Alloy? Any particular type? 2. What about the banjo bolts? They're available in alloy, zinc coated steel and stainless... what's best for fuel? 3. The barb for the return line to tank needs to be restricted (is it 0.35mm? The manual says "PILOT JET 35"), and the barb for the fuel pressure gauge needs to be restricted to 0.5mm. How is this usually achieved - can you buy barbs that are sealed at the end and drill them to the correct size, or is there some kind of restrictor available which seems to be suggested by 6 below? As always any suggestions gratefully received. Cheers, Marty

Man of the people, huh! Nothing like parking your Roller where everyone else has to trudge in.

Big day today - for the first time a wing was put in position! Very relieved to find that the mounting surfaces meet neatly. I finished the fuel line on that wing then removed it again, would have been difficult to get to the loo with it in position.

But seriously, how does that happen? Caught cheating by a wife who can drive an excavator?

Amazingly narrow wings and tiny HS. Looks like the whole fuselage is a lifting body.

No, but it'd be nice to sit in it once or twice and then sell it, and buy something far cheaper.

Bugger, I thought my luck might change! Not this time.

Thanks all! some good leads there.

I spent a while in Repco the other day looking for suitable 25mm ID hose for the radiator runs. Couldn't find anything and everything was hellishly expensive anyway given I'd need to buy several to get the right bends in it. Just in terms of the Gemini radiator hose Skippy - was searching online for that but it always seems to be 30 - 34mm, not 25 as we need for the Rotax connections? What other options are there - looking at this (Aeroflow silicone heater hose) - handles up to 180 and it looks like it's got some spiral reinforcement. Can't find any data on bend radii though. Would something like that be suitable for the 25mm sections?

Thanks Mike, will do. They're coming from China so I'm not expecting them for a while.

What about the hundreds that lost their lives on a refugee boat at the same time this was happening? Did the wealthy countries spend any money on them while spending millions looking for 5 men?

Great idea Nev. sfGnome, if you were in Tassie instead of NSW I'd be tempted to join a building group too.

The Rotax regulator is just a Ducati part anyway isn't it?

Actually - wouldn't rollover protection be afforded by the A frame kingpost structure that holds the upper wires?

Probably wouldn't be hard to design a quick-release rollover bar. Leave it off for ground viewing, put it on before flight.

I notice Rotax installation manual says that long lengths of aluminium can be used as long as they're beaded and able to withstand the heat requirements. One of these may be a worthwhile investment... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/234544596821?hash=item369bf28755:g:G1UAAOSwA71kM7i2&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwBk6yijGBkso46A%2F7NWNCE%2BEvxHTOaaxuiU%2BYrDFg6NxgqVJjnjwQRYAePrfWYiL48%2BIihSMf5v7WKgNuxfxs0Se1qEeLTeHK%2BicDC30rW0if9h6UZRr1EuKzqrn4zXNIN7%2Bso35FSdPWSOxBffIHTE6jilGS0jVoua7DLwd0mgjnhQqefgPTYRByeF5N2kzILztof7JRApbTF84kVawn7PbL%2BAN3lzf6QHc3FppfiyNeJqJornolhX%2Bz0hNeBp8Ew%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5jA4aqfYg

I guess if they're a friend, you give them a chute too... if they're a REAL friend, you actually push them out first!

Hi all, in regards to @danny_galaga's original post about radiator hoses... having never installed radiator hoses on anything before (including cars) - is standard procedure to locate one long length with the right shape to extend from the radiator to the expansion bottle / radiator to water pump (very difficult!), or do you do it with a series of bends and straight sections joined with 25mm beaded aluminium joiners? Thanks, Marty

Easily, maybe not - but sheer desperation would add plenty of incentive to exit the aircraft if required. Collecting the HS on the way out would be my concern.

How about a third option, remove the seat cushions and wear the chute?

You're right there @Kyle Communications and @Old Koreelah. Fibreglass (carbon fibre is worse) is messy, sticky, smelly and dangerous. Full face 3M filter mask and nitrile gloves to lay up, cut and sand CF. Compare this to aluminium - clean, nice to work with, and won't kill you unless you open an artery on a sharp bit. Complex curves are a bit of a problem though. So yes - if it came to a choice between fibreglassing and getting those jeans on/off a supermodel, pass the baby powder.

From memory there's a light purple/lilac coloured one for the soft start module - not that, is it?

Last weekend I carved another wooden grip so have the matched pair now. Pulled through the cables @nomadpete made up for the PTT's and put the stick back on. Kate reckons it looks like an alien' s eye stalks now...

Cowl fitted again with a hole for the radiator end. Bit of a bugger as the blister I have is too big so I'll be doing more fibreglassing.

Just thinking back to my teenage years Mark - that cover looks like it needs a subwoofer in it 😁