eightyknots Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 I wanted to use Sensenich blades, for a bit better quality but the Airmaster manufacturer in New Zealand recommended Airmaster with Whirlwind blades for a bush plane.[ATTACH=full]27938[/ATTACH] 332 hub goes with bolly, kiev and warpdrive blades, 430 is 10mm larger at the boss on the hub and fits Sensenich, and obviously Whirlwind too. Ahhh, the prop choice. Many threads in many forums are devoted to this. I think that the propellor selection seems more difficult than choosing an aircraft in many cases! How on earth do you trust the many competing claims made by so many prop owners? And, how do you verify them? For instance, why did you select the Whirlwind blades? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 The Whirlwind blades were requested by the American Kitfox distributor initially. so Airmaster fullfilled their request, they were very happy with the result, and have been coming back for more so they were suggested for my job too. The blades are quite a bit stiffer than bolly, not so much flex, with simliar quality to Sensenich. I don't know much about selecting props, like many a builder I suspect, so I sought advice from people who do it for their business. I like the Airmaster product, trust the people making and distributing it, and was happy to take their advice at face value! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 O so im back from my trip to get my Avionics. i got theese. And it weighs in like this with transponder. So where do i start? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 strip some wires :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 O so im back from my trip to get my Avionics.i got theese. [ATTACH]28956[/ATTACH] And it weighs in like this with transponder. [ATTACH]28957[/ATTACH] So where do i start? That's going to add quite a bit of overall weight to your Savannah! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 That's going to add quite a bit of overall weight to your Savannah! well it was 4381 grams if you look closely on the lower foto without servos, did you think about anything special? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 well it was 4381 grams if you look closely on the lower foto without servos, did you think about anything special? Not really anything special. Most of this is necessary for safety so we'll just have to accept the weight penalty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 The inspection hatch is underneath and thinking of doing a electrical panel in there on the wall, really easy to access and battery box is there. So im thinking of putting the ibox in the back since i plan to have: Behind of seat: V6 remote Radio(close to antenna), 2x AutoPilots, Garr remote Transponder(close to antenna), statics/AOA/Pitot, OAT sensor, flapsensor, powerflarm, VP-X, sp6/7 that all connect to the ibox Forward: just pulling the can2 wire for the rdac and a LAN rg174 sma cable to the dash for the panels. would this be a viable thing to do? can i extended the iBox LAN cable to ~9feet/2m? without issues? Since i have an all ALU airframe can i put the sp-6/7 in the rear fuselage? just as dynon suggests for its product within the red square? Installation Location - Compass: The ADAHRS Modules include a Magnetometer (Remote Compass). This means that it needs to be located in magnetically benign location, away from high current wires and moving aircraft components that contain a ferrous material.Installation Location - ADAHRS: An ADAHRS installation location should be a rigid surface within 12 feet longitudinally and 6 feet laterally of the aircraft's center-of-gravity. Figure 1 illustrates this. Is it possible to install the adahrs sp6/7 upside down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 So i will put the remote controlled circuit breaker Vertical power X in the back as most units needing power will also be in the back, only power needed to go forward is for 2x Efis, engine monitor Rdac, ECU(will have backup), fuel pump(will have backup), and the ordinary powerline backwards. Does it make any sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 So i will put the remote controlled circuit breaker Vertical power X in the back as most units needing power will also be in the back, only power needed to go forward is for 2x Efis, engine monitor Rdac, ECU(will have backup), fuel pump(will have backup), and the ordinary powerline backwards.Does it make any sense? I think the best person to answer this, that I know of, is Mark. He is an expert in electronics and he is very familiar with the Savannah. I'm sure he'll give some worthwhile advice when he sees this post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 You will need a power bus in behind the dash to supply all of your control from there. The remote circuit breakers is basically just a relay that will switch the power on to the electronics you have behind the seat and its control will be on the dash. You will need at least another 1 or 2 circuit breakers on the dash coming from your power bus behind the dash anyway. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 You will need a power bus in behind the dash to supply all of your control from there. The remote circuit breakers is basically just a relay that will switch the power on to the electronics you have behind the seat and its control will be on the dash. You will need at least another 1 or 2 circuit breakers on the dash coming from your power bus behind the dash anyway.Mark The Vertical-Power X isnt just a remote circuit breaker/relay system its also connects into my efis where i can see allot of data,, power usage, auto-trim, with more fun stuff, http://verticalpower.com/vp-x/ Only breaker i will have in front is for backup fuelpump/ecu rest will come from rear. switches just need grounding to activate so 10x smal awg24 wires till be pulled from rear to forward,, well im at the start och using a PCB software to do a mashup of all my electronics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 So my friend is trying to calculate where i can put the autopilot =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted May 29, 2014 Author Share Posted May 29, 2014 SO i got the Bank autopilot servo installed, took some time to find how to fasten it, but finaly got in. Also got my Panel done =) Now im waiting for the carbonfiber vinyl to come =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 Inspiration from Kyle,but im using a "Proper" key. And so far this is revision "78" i think of my electrical system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Don't the keys go in the other side of the swich??? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 Don't the keys go in the other side of the swich??? Yup,, just dont want to loose them yet. Im off to buy almost 210meter of wire 2morrow, hows your build going? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Stagnating, I have been very involved with my cattle for the last few months, and re-establishing pasture that died through the drought. The light at the end of the tunnel is getting very bright, I don't plan to let it become three months in a row with no progress. My pad is down ready for the builder to put the slab down for my hangar, so once it is built by the end of this month I should be able to spread things out and really get into it when ever i get a spare hour. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 Installed some rivnuts, now i can access the sitwell whenever i want. i need some vacation, i got parts but no time, just work and girlfriend, puuh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 I hope you get some time for your girlfriend soon, Skee! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 Finaly starting to get some work done, electrics start getting installed. the mgl ibox is in. The Vpx is also in, i decided to keep data stuff on one side and power on the other. Made some wiring for the radio,, gosh it was allot, even got a 10 000uf cap to minimise dist. used a 25 pin screw connector to make it easier to get all cables in. Now off to buy some 18awg wire, lets see what 4 days of loneliness can do to my aircraft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 Radio is now installed with wiring, allot of wiring on it hopefully it will look allot better later when wires are more tidy. All cables are neatly marked with Dymo and panel has gotten all its switches thee, just so i can see what i need. also installed transponder antenna underneath the passenger seat and fixed rear strobe wiring. Fusing for backup power to efis, ground block in the middle. Off to sleep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 It's nice to see all this progress Skee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 Look at my little solution for flapsensor =) when i connect these to my efis i will be able to get a warning if im using them when going to fast. Oh and btw i spent 15 hours x 4 this weekend pulling wires, its kinda allot of work.... ill post some photos later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultralights Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 i would consider a wear strip under the flap sensor switches.. just a very thin strip of stainless steel maybe. or adhesive strip of mylar or teflon, and make it part of an 100hrly inspection. i can see the steel switches wearing through the aluminium pretty quickly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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