Captaincoop Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Does anyone know what/how to replace the sav nose wheel axle. I believe it is a weak point as the attachment bolt is in shear and there have been incidents where it has broken causing major damage. I was hoping to replace it with something stronger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Does anyone know what/how to replace the sav nose wheel axle. I believe it is a weak point as the attachment bolt is in shear and there have been incidents where it has broken causing major damage. I was hoping to replace it with something stronger. Machine it out and put a Chrome Molly bolt up the middle of it to catch the bits if it does fail, or send it to Aerokits and get Reg to convert it for you. Something stronger is also heavier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Vince Clegg Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Pull the old one out and give it to any machine shop or engineering works and they will make a steel one for you. Helps if you give them the bearings and screws. I think mine cost $25. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captaincoop Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 thanks. will do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 You just need to drill out the axel with I think it was a 8mm drill. Then get a new bolt long enough to go through the frame and the axel. It was only a 5 minute job on my lathe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Vince Clegg Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 That's OK with a new axle but most of the used ones are slightly bent anyway. Also you still only have an 8mm bolt to bend if you do have a heavy landing so why not fix it properly and forget the problem. The few grams difference in weight isn't worth worrying about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captaincoop Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 might try getting a steel one made. I don't really have the tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soleair Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 A word of caution. Are you sure the axle and its supports aren't deliberately designed as a weak point? It is good practice in light aircraft design to protect primary structure (in this case forward fuselage) from damage by providing a frangible element in the system. It may be that the nosewheel axle is designed as a sacrificial assembly on the grounds that it is more inspectable, easier & cheaper to replace than the fuselage structure to which it attaches. You can make the nosewheel unbreakable, but where then will the energy from a very heavy landing be dissipated? Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 I can tell you from experience that the noseleg frame is much weaker than the axel. You use a high tensile bolt for the replacement. The only reason is the original really doesn't have enough meat in the ends for the way they attach the axel. Putting the bolt all the way through makes the axel way stronger. Even after the collapse of my nosewheel frame the axel is still ok...I did fit a new one of course but the old axel was fine and it had the bolt through it Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_d Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Wouldn't the bungee which provides the shock absorption in the nosegear be a weaker assembly than the axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG3 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 The original axle wasn't good design - not enough meat where needed, and machining stress risers at just the wrong places... When it fails it breaks completely and drops the nose fork on the ground, causing a prop strike and if enough speed possibly digging in and flipping the aircraft on its back.... The through bolt bends but holds it all together. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDQDI Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Another solution would be to move the main gear a little towards the front to reduce the weight on the nose wheel. If you bring them forward enough you are then able to move the front wheel down to the rear to hold the tail up:thumb up:. 2 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_d Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 But some of us like to have that third wheel at the correct end of the fuselage... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Another solution would be to move the main gear a little towards the front to reduce the weight on the nose wheel. If you bring them forward enough you are then able to move the front wheel down to the rear to hold the tail up:thumb up:. That has already been done...more than once, just never made it to Australia. The little wheel on the front would upset your W&B badly if you moved it all the way down the back too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captaincoop Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 has anyone got a good idea to replace the cowl clip/screws. the ones I have are really hard to clip/screw (half turn) in and even when they do I found they can come undone in flight. I'd prefer a latch system of some sort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_d Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 has anyone got a good idea to replace the cowl clip/screws. the ones I have are really hard to clip/screw (half turn) in and even when they do I found they can come undone in flight. I'd prefer a latch system of some sort. There's a couple of systems here: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=cowl+latch&x=32&y=21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Vince Clegg Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Try Reg Brost at [email protected] or 0418 157 044. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captaincoop Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 what about those tonneau tie downs they use on ute trays. Do you think they would be ok? (and legal) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Get the ones for utes that travel 200km/h and you should be right. What is the worst that could happen if they failed? Lose the lid off your cowling, rip the fin off as it blows over the top of the cabin, or comes loose on ones side and flaps until it busts the lower cowing too, yep they should be right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captaincoop Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Get the ones for utes that travel 200km/h and you should be right. What is the worst that could happen if they failed? Lose the lid off your cowling, rip the fin off as it blows over the top of the cabin, or comes loose on ones side and flaps until it busts the lower cowing too, yep they should be right. So that's a yes?......I have another idea but it involves a large amount of shoe laces :) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff13 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Super glue then nailpolish remover to disolve it when you want to take it of. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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