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Propeller manufacture in OZ


flyerme

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there is also a more delicate weapon of choice- a draw knife

Ah, the draw knife is a lovely bit of kit, and in my experience much easier to use than a spokeshave: my old Dad would use a spokeshave fluently both forehand and backhand (coming and going) for the rear legs of dining chairs, but somehow I just never could...

The drawknife allows surprisingly fine finishing cuts: reason being that the handles allow fine adjustment of angle of attack. And using one is like using a really sharp plane on really good wood: you don't want to stop...)

 

 

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Ah, the draw knife is a lovely bit of kit, and in my experience much easier to use than a spokeshave: my old Dad would use a spokeshave fluently both forehand and backhand (coming and going) for the rear legs of dining chairs, but somehow I just never could...The drawknife allows surprisingly fine finishing cuts: reason being that the handles allow fine adjustment of angle of attack. And using one is like using a really sharp plane on really good wood: you don't want to stop...)

Yes they are a beautiful device- and damn expensive for a quality one. They are available in many profiles just like spokeshaves and sizes for that matter.

 

Same as planes- they are not all the same and can have many different blade profiles and lengths.

 

In my collection I have planes from smaller than palm size (razor plane) to 24 inch long and six inch wide and varying profiles. Even have some rebate planes- took me a while to work those ones out. Oh a a dozen or so Swedish saws- beautiful things. I love old school wood working tools.

 

But sadly all dads drawknives are missing.

 

Some say that spokeshaves are no good for really knotty wood- yes but do we really want to make a prop from knotty knarly hardwood?

 

 

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...The drawknife allows surprisingly fine finishing cuts: reason being that the handles allow fine adjustment of angle of attack. And using one is like using a really sharp plane on really good wood: you don't want to stop...)

Stop it! I'm getting excited!

 

 

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Dirty dangerous damned things! Caused many leg wounds to their users. One technology (like some vintage aeroplanes) we are better off without.

I'd say most shipbuilding timbers were once adzed: maybe safer to use on big heavy timbers that don't shift or bounce?

 

 

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Those with a reputation for killing the unwary. I'm thinking of a large De Havilland that was lovingly restored after a fatal crash, then killed a few more.

Old K. It was VMC into IMC that killed those people - not the old deHavilland. Old aircraft are like old aviators, if they're kept in good condition they have lots to offer. I wouldn't swap my 70-year-old Aeronca for three plastic fantastics.

 

 

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Shady asked for more info on one of my posts.....

 

this is the type of sander I had in mind- I have one and its brilliant- just add no clog wood sanding pads instead of the oxide type. great for lovely smooth contours and very easy on the hand. Does not have a vaccum attach at this size though.

 

sorry for image size.

 

 

This is a spoke shave and come in many sizes- easy to use and is not limited to making spokes. As long as the wood is fine grained- they are wonderful

 

t3058.jpg

 

And here is the old beasty- dads first electric tool.

 

 

This image is from a Victorian museum

 

 

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Here is a couple I have made out of Tas Oak or Victorian Ash. The one with the cracks in it was on a belt drive Suby and didn't leave the ground , just taxiing, too thin near the root , (hub) and is two separate blades. The other one was for a 440 Kawasaki belt drive but I never got around to using it. These are both three laminations. I have since made one for a 503 from Celery Top pine which is a lot lighter and would think Hoop Pine would be a close alternative. To make these I use a n electric planer for roughing them out and a automotive buff with a 24 grit 8" disc to get the final shape. these buffs spin at slow speed so you don't remove a lot in a few passes. It is used in a buffing motion not a grinding action. I cut the plan shape first on a cnc machine then glue together with epoxy, thats my take on it so.....yes have a go, its very satisfying to see your handy work at the end.

 

Cheers Paul.

 

 

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I would think you could do the flat side with a bandsaw and a jig to guide the twist. Watch out for sawdust. It's not as innocuous as we once thought. Computer guided spindle moulders may be the answer for large runs. Making stuff by hand is only as good as your worst worker. We used to get wood props for models that were filled with plastic after subjecting it to a vacuum to draw the moisture out.. Nev

 

 

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I made the prop for my MiniMax. It is 65" x 42" pitch, from Tassy Oak & Queensland maple laminates. Took a week to make & cost less than $100.

 

I think for my next prop I'll just use the maple: it's very easy to work, and lighter.

 

Link to my post on the Max forum with photos here

 

 

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I made the prop for my MiniMax. It is 65" x 42" pitch, from Tassy Oak & Queensland maple laminates. Took a week to make & cost less than $100.I think for my next prop I'll just use the maple: it's very easy to work, and lighter.

 

Link to my post on the Max forum with photos here

That's a really nicely put together 'how to'. And I always wondered how it was done. Thank you!

 

 

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