Kyle Communications Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 The wall should just pull to it..its not that far out...did you drill the hole in the rear of that tube correctly? Its interesting the front wall you have it the high wall where the stick mechanism bolts onto those brackets you have there..the new Sav with the single stick and adj seats has a much lower wall. I dont know if they do adj seats with twin sticks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 You might find some of this thread useful Dual sticks for Savannah's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 The wall should just pull to it..its not that far out...did you drill the hole in the rear of that tube correctly? No, I did not have to drill it. And I don't want to use force. I could rivet it that way, but that would push the tube hard into the plastic at the other side. This would surely wear out fast. You seem to have other versions of this details in your builts. Thanks for the link. Guess it won't hurt to read it again, although this problem is not related with twin sticks. Now I remember. I like the removable sticks but my inspector would go mad for sure!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Time to celebrate! Yesterday my savannah built passed the "middle" "bare-metall" (sorry don't know the right term) inspection. Just one rivet was to be redone. What a happy day. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Time to celebrate! Yesterday my savannah built passed the "middle" "bare-metall" (sorry don't know the right term) inspection. Just one rivet was to be redone. What a happy day.[ATTACH]51224[/ATTACH] Well Done MJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 Yup, they are called "-Map holders" in the options list, you can retrofit them, its €100, they are really nice since they cover up the rudder cables and wires. Is there any chance to built them from leftover alu (tank cover)? Perhapes someone has more photos? A cup holder seems usefull to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Yup, they are called "-Map holders" in the options list, you can retrofit them, its €100, they are really nice since they cover up the rudder cables and wires. Is there any chance to built them from leftover alu (tank cover)?Perhaps someone has more photos? A cup holder seems usefull too. Does anyone have a clear picture of the map holder? Googling hasn't assisted me in finding any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrowley Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Does anyone have a clear picture of the map holder? Googling hasn't assisted me in finding any. I have some on my build site, www.mykitlog/mcrowley 1 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 Tefzel is made for aircraft. It has tinned copper wire inside the insulation is much tougher than auto wire and less prone to cracking also is much more fire resistantIts also more expensive but just far better wire Does anybody know a good ( easy to read and understand ) instruction on how to wire a plane. I'm kind of looking for the Do's and Dont's.... For instance? Can the body of an alloy plane be used as ground wire? Is soldering and shrink tube o.k.? If NO.... not even for sensor cables on D25 connectors? .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Does anybody know a good ( easy to read and understand ) instruction on how to wire a plane.I'm kind of looking for the Do's and Dont's.... For instance? Can the body of an alloy plane be used as ground wire? Is soldering and shrink tube o.k.? If NO.... not even for sensor cables on D25 connectors? .... Hi Tom, This video may be useful: HomebuiltHELP Electrical Wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 I have some on my build site, www.mykitlog/mcrowley BTW: if anyone has trouble getting into Mike's link (as I did), you could try this direct link: Mike Crowley - Experimental Aircraft Builder's Log 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Any good electrical connection made well will last. I used double grip crimp spade terminals with a "correct" adjustable crimper for those terminals and anything else i soldered and heatshrinked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 Hi AllI am at the stage of fitting the cabin frame and the manual calls for the diagonals to be within +/_ 5 mm in dimensions Greg told me this is pretty critical for when the wings go on it affects the wing to tailplane distance and I think the max allowable is 30mm at either end the closer you can get these to be the same the better so I spent most of today getting these sorted. You will see in the pics I have 4 sets of vise grips holding pins exactly over the wing mounting holes on the front and rear and you measure across these for the diagonals distance. Once you get this setup with the jigs at the side holding the front wing mount then you drill the alu tubes in their mounted position and cleo them all. But before you can do this you need to fit the engine mount so you get the mounting holes in the right place for the front V bars that come from the cabin frame that mount to the top mount of the engine mount you can see in the pics that it becomes one nice solid area for the engine to be braced to. After some time off and much consideration, I did drill the cabin frame. For me the diagonals where hard to measure. The end points can't be reached directly and are not on parallel pieces. The tip from Kyle Com helped a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 It comes the time to think about color. The picture showes how I would like it to be, if I can make it. ICP is doing the paint job on the fully assembled plane, I was told. From what I have seen on your builts, you are not. May sound stupid. But.... What is the best time for painting? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 It comes the time to think about color.The picture showes how I would like it to be, if I can make it. ICP is doing the paint job on the fully assembled plane, I was told. From what I have seen on your builts, you are not. May sound stupid. But.... What is the best time for painting? Nice balance between the darker blue and the white wings. The light coloured wings should save them (and the fuel inside it) from overheating in the summer sun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 Little progress lately. We have summer hollidays. After a longer periode of reading, thinking and messuering, I drilled and rivited the cabin frame. I had great respect for his part, because I wanted to do it right. The cabin frame surery is an expensiv part to ruin by haste. So I took my time... Second project was / is the glovebox. I put it together using some spare aluminium from the tank covers. It will be hidden behind a flap ( door ) with a 10" tablet on it. Left and right will be rather small instrument panels. As advised I ordered a MGL Stratomaster Efis and XADC SP-6 and -7. This will save much space. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Little progress lately. We have summer hollidays.After a longer periode of reading, thinking and messuering, I drilled and rivited the cabin frame. I had great respect for his part, because I wanted to do it right. The cabin frame surery is an expensiv part to ruin by haste. So I took my time... Second project was / is the glovebox. I put it together using some spare aluminium from the tank covers. It will be hidden behind a flap ( door ) with a 10" tablet on it. Left and right will be rather small instrument panels. As advised I ordered a MGL Stratomaster Efis and XADC SP-6 and -7. This will save much space. [ATTACH]51703[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]51704[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]51705[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]51706[/ATTACH] Hi Tom, I like the idea of a glove box. Is that the deepest glovebox possible or are you allowing some breathing space behind it to keep the instruments cool on either side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Don't know what you mean? From memory the dimensions are 18cm wide and high and 30 cm deep. It can't be longer because there is the ventilation outlet. I used just enough space from the instrument panel, like is already covered by an ordinary 10" android tablet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 There is this saying: "90 % done - 90% to go" Seems I'm just in the middle of if. And I must admit, I don't like it to much. Much of the time is spend figguring out what to do next and how to do it. One problem is, by now my built has unfinished parts all over the chapters. This surely is my fault. I wish there would be a staight forward instruction book. But then the savannah comes from ICP and not from LEGO. Some small issue I have is about the cabin frame. It sits way back in the opening of the skin. (1. picture is from the book) Will this cause problems with the lexan windscreen? A gap perhaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 The screen rubber just clears over that gap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 The screen rubber just clears over that gap Thanks... Will the rubber even close a 2cm gap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perrynz Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 The gap looks about normal. I did away with the "patch" piece that (in your photo) is clecoed behind the cabin frame. Instead I made a "patch/cover" that neatly fitted over the gap forward of the cabin frame. The windscreen rubber seal then tidily sits on top of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 Thanks Perry, what a relief. I was kind of uncertain, if I did something wrong to produce this gap. A patch from the opposite side is good idea. Will try to to it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 Finding the right position.... I'm wondering, if it might be a good idea to consider alternativ positions for some parts. Maybe the expirienced builders can help me sort this out. ---- I want to use a lightweight LiFePo battery. Where to put it? 1. position as per plan 2. under the pasenger or pilot seat 3. inside of the firewall 4. outside the firewall Surely short cables are better than long cables. But what might count against it? ---- Why is that electric fuel pump under the cowling and near the mechanical pump? Why not put it just after the header tank? There is a nice place where the fuel line goes from right to left, easy to reach, just beside the trap door. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 I shifted my elec fuel pump to under the seats between the fuel sump and where the alu fuel tube comes out under the floor. Not sure I would use the lithium battery with the rotax generator. Some do and some dont. There is a brand Shorai that make them for motorcyles that seem to work ok. I would put a battery that light forward of the original as the tail of the S is heavier this is why the S has the 8kg battery supplied behind the pilot seat where the 8kg battery in a XL is down the back as the rear end is a lot lighter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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