Blueadventures

Skip; I think you go overboard picking peoples posts apart, specifically my resent one. In my post I generalised that he would be purging the new install of engine, oil cooler and hoses between including the oil can. Therefore 100% relevant to his post considering his build.

You'll likely do first change at 25 hours and the purge will use a little oil (I'd don't reuse what is collected during purge. Therefore you will need at least 9 litres first fill, 25 hours change and stock on hand for next 50 hourly. Over to you.

ELAAA tried some years back but did not get over the line / approved by CASA.

It is the right place; maybe ask moderator to alter the title with "by Lyndon" or something similar.

Wing off this morning.

Ready for wings off tomorrow, all bolts backed off or nuts removed. first one at least. Had a visitor in the hangar today. Zoom in and see it looking at me; maybe smiling for the photo. I don’t like snakes.

All good; my comments meant to be a help, not criticise you or load you up with stuff. Just ideas for your consideration. I know how busy you are and you have done well. Cheers.

BurnieM's document is great for your information. You could compare the speed and other info and pencil any differences into your printed POH and consider the information in conjunction with your instructor and verify the stall speed etc during your flights. You'll have a nice POH then for sure. Good news rego is close. Cheers.

For info I have recently purchased this adaptor tool for torquing the prop hub to flange nuts used for Eprops and some other propeller brands that are not attached using the usual drive lugs on the Rotax flanges. Will be handy. Just need to do calculation for reduced Nm setting.

Agree, I have crows foot for certain deep narrow access needs. Used sockets and allen key drives as best grip on fastenings for prop torque. Bought the dog bone (E-Props prop hub nuts are torqued at rear of flange) and yet to use it. It will be good for the tight area between the rear of the gear box prop mount flange and the front bearing body area of the Rotax 912 gear box. Anyone with props mounted to the Rotax drive lugs inserted into the flange will be tightening props from the from and won't need this tool (examples Bolly, DUC, etc)

Finally happening; started work to fit 600kg upgrade brackets and brace wire into wings today. Drained fuel, disconnected aileron cable and removed ailerons. More planned for tomorrow afternoon. Should have wings ready to come off for Saturday afternoon then the fun / work begins. Doing mate Ben’s was a good experience and a couple of comments from Paul at Flylight about some update refinements they do all helps.

Agree and have a full set, for e-props and warp drive the ring end 13mm adaptor will be great. For the other question they are torque adaptors or 'Dog Bone' in some circles.

I have recently purchased this adaptor tool for torquing the flange nuts used for Eprops and some other propeller brands that are not attached using the usual drive lugs on the Rotax flanges. Will be handy. Just need to do calculation for reduced Nm setting.

Would reinforce Line maintenance skills and knowledge and enhance such I guess; I haven't seen the schedule but over three days should cover the Line Maintenance Manual tasks easily. I'm not doing it as their last day is the day I'm traveling (Fly or Drive weather dependant) to Bundaberg for their two day course. I would like to do a Rotax course sometime, reckon I would learn something; but I'm more interested in some heavy tasks. I have no interest at moment with the iS range or turbo variants just a simple carby man.

As the two replies above say; at least get an inspection report that include for example engine model (with Rotax 912 its better to get a later than 2006 engine due to the better crankcase, some model numbers around 2011 require frequent crankshaft checks via an inserted feeler gauge as examples) If Jabiru and engine not conditioned for storage it would likely need extensive work and good refurbishment is available. One of the cylinder pressure tests is a good guide and best done. Both engines would likely require maintenance and parts. Then the airframe and surface covering condition and electrics. As an example I have done inspections that list 20 plus matters for attention; 6 maybe needed before next flight and the others done when suits; my comments are supported by images and if the interested purchaser is not present at the inspection time I would say to them to speak with a local to them maintainer about the listed items and get a cost guide (I will give them a best guess parts cost and time to do guide to assist their considering purchase price if they go ahead. I've seen some rip-off buys where too much was paid for the aircraft and heaps of costly work required. Sometimes (almost always) better to pay more for an aircraft in flying condition; unless you want a project. Hope this limited reply helps.

They need Rotax authorisation. That's a Buggar. The drifter a mate needed sold had a 582 fully rebuilt by an excellent highly experienced guy with a great history of rebuilding two stroke rotax and many other engines, did not have the rotax authorisation so the interested buyer did not go ahead. Had receipts to $5k and all parts listed and emails to Wal about the parts and a fully completed runin sheet record completed. 100% perfect but no Rotax authorisation. It was 19 reg and the guy that bought it is having good fun and no issues. Also got advice the Floods Line maintenance course is 3 days and $1500 ($500 per day) for those that want to attend. Early April.

Enjoy your fly. Cheers.

They will need to verify observing engine run, I have had two knocked back and the owners had to get the engine running for me. One was a restoration project and the other change of ownership and undergoing maintenance. Otherwise its treated as unairworthy transfer of ownership and a further condition report (ACR) is needed before flight.

Probably bit late; but I'm not a fan of canopy covers when towing as can scratch dust and dirt into screen. Realise your on dirt and gravel roads a bit. Prefer to wrap in gladwrap plastic a few wraps then maybe some thin foam and more gladwrap / plastic wrap.

Yep, exactly what I used, filed width down to 1.4mm. as above one in my electrical connector crimp box and one in tools etc on board. I carry two pins and gromets (no weight to them) as have assisted with mags not stopping Rotax's due to broken or poor crimp in the connect tor that allows for an open circuit. Just handy.

Maybe my poor wording; If he was to buy a fuel pump would need to be installed whenever and replaced at 5 years from the purchase date. If it was installed many months after purchase and then found it was faulty; for warranty would need to be less that 12 months since purchase. As pressure reading is in green with electric pump on then good chance the gauge is good. So good chance fuel pump needs replacing. (Skippy could try and borrow a fuel pump off someone; even a recently replaced 5 yearly one that was working fine; if you do that stay within glide of airfield.)

May be worth opening up the mechanical fuel pump and inspect the condition of the diaphragm and the two valves. Not a serviceable unit but may show a failed area. (Not sure how old it is I purchase a replacement item every 5 years.) Might also pay to buy a new one and keep on the shelf until required, they have a year warranty not used.)

Agree, bought a similar set a few days ago; just made the two so I have one in my electrical repair tools kit and one in my small spares kit on board. Easy enough to make up and the shape works a treat.

I have a UMA fuel pressure sensor, works good. They don't like heat so mounted away from engine in the compartment in an air flow area to keep it as cool as possible.

PM your contact; I'll get his contact from another mate and I'm sure he will be able to give his experience with it over the phone.