rick morawski

Can you translate this to English, I have no idea what you're asking.

I'm pretty sure SF021 goes on the forward omega on the cabin floor , the two SF022 go on the rear omega. they are installed after the carpet to protect it. Dont know about the SF085.

if you mean the saddles like in this pic, they are just cut from .016" scrap and shaped to fit then drill and rivet. I see in another pic you have some copper saddles on the bench, dont use them on your plane, they will start corrosion. The SE-009-15 is a strap of .016" about 450mm long X 30mm wide with tabs on the end for fixing. it goes around the reserve tank to hold it behind seat, nothing to do with the fuel tap.

an4-13 drilled shank bolt, washer, castellated nut and split pin goes in there, see screen grab below. In the picture you posted of course you will have to remove the zip tie, but you also have those doublers on the inside instead of the outside, as per the manual and it is splaying the sides outward thus the slop. Move them to the outside and squeeze the sides back in parallel.

it may well bugger you:roflmao:

I would love a fuselage rotator but have never had the spare cash to build one. I suspend the fuse in the spray booth with wire, high enough for the painter to get underneath. I don't spray paint myself I leave that to experts, looks so much better than what I could do. Yes I have considered it, would be handy for outside jobs so I don't have to lug a compressor with me, but in reality I wouldn't buy one when a pneumatic one comes included with the kit.

Hi Bob I reckon best height for you is worked out by arm straight at sides, hands outstretched, palms parallel to floor, height of bench is distance from palm to floor. Can also be calculated as dick height, but that's not very PC:oh yeah: Cheers Rick

Just looked at the manual and they don't show any washers and use loctite 243.

There should be four of M8 X 35 Allen head set screws and washers in the engine installation parts box. Torque to 40Nm. I think the manual says to use loctite but I drill and safety wire them because I've seen a few lost or loose ones on motors around about. Cheers Rick

Enlarge it if necessary, I usually do that with the pedal mounting blocks. I usually leave out the friction block altogether, it adds too much friction and I like the throttle free and easy. That blue fuel hose used to come with the older kits.

I get AN bolts from ASAP Aircraft Spares in Caboolture in Qld. Very easy to deal with, just sent an email with my list and they sent back a quote real quick. Was $11.30 for Aust. Post prepaid satchel.

For F**K sake Skee lighten up. I don't really understand what you are having trouble with, maybe post photos. There's nothing really squeezy about the cabin roof. When I assemble a Sav at the airfield everything is done, just a matter of bolting up the parts. Takes about a day.

Toss the adjuster it's not used. there will be two small teardrop shaped bits of aluminium with three holes in each bit. They are doublers that reinforce the mounting holes that bulges out the front of the shroud. in the box that the light was in should be two he head self tapping screws. Put on screw in the mounting hole and with the light inside the shroud turn the screw into one of the mounting holes on the side of the light (use lubricant and reverse it often or you will break a screw). Then flex the shroud around the light body and place the other screw in.

Hi Lyndon, The pitot tube is a piece of 6mm aluminium tube L shaped, about 450mm long with one bend 90 degrees with about 75mm one end (dont ask me which end ) Not to be confused with the fuel return tube which is similar size but has 2 bends. they are usually all taped together with the 10mm fuel tubes. don't put it on permanently till final assembly at the airstrip or it will get bent for sure, actually most sav builders cut it short and then join it back up with a bit of 8 x 6 rilsan tube so it will flex when someone bashes it while not looking. The light shroud is pretty simple, rivet the teardrop shape doublers on with 2 crush rivets each, then using the self tapper screws that come with the light attach to the shroud. You have to flex the shroud around the light a bit and hold your tongue in the right position to do this. Then position the assembly on the wing in the position shown in the manual, drill through the holes, cleco as you go, deburr and rivet. cheers Rick

Hi Mark I know Siew, the owner of the Pegastol/701 in WA. He lives not too far away from me and I do maintenance on his plane from time to time. I also built the only other Pegastol kit in Aust, unfortunately I also wrecked it. (but that's another story) I still have the assembly book around - maybe! The fuel tanks are roto Moulded poly, I had four tanks in mine, the exta tanks were outboard of the struts. I'm surprised you're considering building Peg wings for your Sav, last I saw you were sold on a Rans kit? what happened to that? As JG says in that article, I don't think the Pegasair wing will fit the sav, and to change the front to rear spar measurement would change the wing profile blah blah blah. But building the whole plane would be the go. The guy that bought the Pegastol rights was in Alaska I think, had his number a long time ago but never spoke to him. He never produced any new kits, just built the last Peg wings. The templates and jigs are probably in his back shed gathering dust. The guy at the start of the video was Giles Boulanger, a director of the company and a WW2 bomber pilot, a legend. Call me if you want more info or photos ( I think I still have some) Cheers Rick

Looks awesome, well done Lyndon! Hope to hear about a successful run up soon.

I think there is a mod for the jet needle, a little oring on top to stop the circlip turning and wearing through the groove.

Hi Ho, Bert Floods in Melb. Have the hose you want or any other Rotax bits. I think Evans coolant is not recommended by Rotax anymore. I always use 50/50 distilled water/glycol. Cheers Rick

Bob if you want to make short rivets (you won't buy any) you need to hammer out the mandrel from the rivet, cut the rivet shorter, replace the mandrel, voila, short rivet. I tried it this afternoon on a couple rivets, took about five minutes. It revealed another problem, the stem of the mandrel sticks out of the rivet head a tiny bit when pulled, no big deal to carefully file it off if you only have a few.

Hi Byron, did you sort out your engine problem? Let us know what it was. Cheers Rick

I've notice when people new to the air riveter tend to hold it too hard against the rivet head, so when it recoils it is pushed back onto to the rivet or worse onto the skin. The trick is a loose grip with no pushing pressure so it recoils in your hand away from the surface. You'll quickly get the knack anyway. Have fun:smile:

It's an 18 X 1 mm thread.

I had same fault symptoms and was broken kill switch wire same as Kasper, except mine was about 15mm away from the ignition box so I just had enough wire left to do a repair. Lucky me.

Hey Bob, A good organisational idea is to pin up all those little bags of bits on a pin up board, so they are all immediately visible and secure so you don't have to sort thru boxes or whatever, just a tip that works for me.

Yes of course, there are no a3 countersunk , I usually drill them out to 1/8 and use the a4 countersunk.