rick morawski

Keep looking Bob, they will be in there, a small plastic bag of countersunk a4 rivets can be hard to find, they are usually in the same box as the big bag of a4 domed. There should also be a smaller bag of a5, also small bags of a3, a bag of a5 countersunk, a bag of a5 longer rivets, a bag of large head black painted rivets, and a bag of a5 stainless steel, so if you find any of those the the countersunk ones you're after will be there too.

I have a copy of the CZAW CH701 POH, 4th edition, January 2003, but for Rotax 912, any good? You would need a PDF editing program to modify it.

Saw this on YouTube, nearly pooped myself! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFqDZagVeJU

Don't know if you could say it is of benefit, just some folk don't like the throttle creeping up all time they haven't got the friction lock done up enough. With the standard flexible Bowden cable type throttle, the spring must be strong enough to pull the throttle cable through the sheath to get full throttle. You could easily see a situation where a kinked/frayed /not so well maintained cable maybe could not be pulled through by a weaker spring.

Yes, it should be about 1/2 full all the time.

"Overflow bottle had pressurized I guess and blew a hole out the bottom" If the overflow bottle does not already have an amount of coolant in it (in other words its empty), the incoming flow of boiling coolant will melt the more flimsy bottles like that.

I wouldn't jump too hastily to that conclusion. If you have only been running your motor for short periods for test runs then then you will not completely boil out the water in the oil, which will then condense in the oil tank. Rubber carb sockets should have been replaced at the 5 year rubber replacement. I would check the chokes levers are completely returning to their stops when choke off and do a pneumatic balance of carbs. Spark plug caps on correctly? Both ignitions on and working? Main jets partial blockage with old fuel varnish can be hard to see without magnification (if you are old like me) Those are some things I would look at before ripping the heads off. Cheers Rick

Hi Hasse, I usually take the springs off altogether. I don't think it's necessary with the hard rod push/pull system. If you want weaker springs you can get them at ACS here - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/throttlespring05-12477.php?clickkey=5638 Cheers Rick

Yes, I know! That's what you get for buying cut bits in WA.

You can get it by the foot (4' wide) at Western Airmotive, Jandakot. Cheers Rick

The black plastic one that was on my mates factory built (Austflight Boonah) drifter years ago was a Ecco brand, I remember because a bought one to put in my aircraft. Similar if not the same as this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12-volt-SU-Type-Diaphram-Electric-Fuel-Pump-1-LPM-3-psi-Ecco-Universal-NZ-Made-/131408801642?hash=item1e98932f6a:g:E08AAOSwLVZV2WxF

I had that message one when I plugged it in via the clip on mounting adaptor. The only thing I can suggest is try another cord. They are pretty common those Usb to mini Usb cords. Cheers Rick.

Do you have the USB plugged in the back next to the battery?

Woo hoo! So close, do have permit to fly?

See post #140, back one page

Photos as promised! Well worth waiting for the dog groomer, she's gorgeous

Will have to go out to the airstrip to take the photo tomorrow after the dog clippers been.

Nice looking dash Guy, tell us about those electronic instruments, what are they?

That's what I do, cut the top off the grip and sand it smooth, put on in the stick upsidedown (best side up), get a correct size plastic pipe stopper with push button fitted and put in open end of stick. Works well. Will post a photo if you want.

I saw a video on YouTube that showed some one dismantling a Garmin Nuvi, the case looks almost identical to the area 500. If you look it up it will give you a fair idea how to get to the speaker. Cheers Rick

Hi George Those ones look like they would suffer from engine shake, looks like there's maybe been a crack repair where the flange bend is. (See the short weld) The rotax ones have a continuous curve from the flange so they are rigid with no fatigue point. Only problem is you got to take the carb off to check the bowls, pain in the a$$.

Hi Dan, 1) after the eyeball mount is clamped up the ball is clamped. It is only to get the correct angle on the control cable. 2) the outer sheath is supposed to be clamped up as well when you tighten the eyeball, but I found that it didn't (maybe tolerances on the cable sheath are nominal) so I fixed it by carefully draw filing the flats between the ball halves so it clamped up nice. 3) the only reason was its easier to put a spanner on the hex bar when tightening the locknut. With the Cromo you have to hold it with pliers or vice grips so it ends up looking a bit munted. When cutting the inner wire to length don't cut it neat to length, leave it long till you're sure. Also don't have the knob right up on the ferrule part at full throttle, always have about 1/2" -1" of s/s rod showing at full throttle so there is no strain point as the engine moves. Hope it goes well for you. Cheers Rick

If you mean "wait" as in time before delivery then Reg usually has them in stock so should be about 3-4 days by expess post bag. If you mean "weight" as in how much extra does it weigh, I'd reckon about 25 grams, if that.

Over.

The info i have is the original filter is from a Fiat Regata 1.7D so a K&N equivalent would be a 33-2001. Check size before buying though. Cheers Rick