rick morawski

I reckon get a new one. Reg at aerokits has got them in stock at reasonable price. That one is nearly worn through the tank on the corner as well. Cheers Rick

I don't think you would retrofit the sliding seats. The seat front is maybe 50-60 mm lower, major work to change that, plus seat pan is different. I don't think the sliding seats are worth having anyway, just my opinion. Cheers Rick

Oh no, there goes the pool table:gaah:

Hi Mike, One way to do it requires you to make a little circuit board - how's your electronics and soldering skills? Maybe you've got a mate who could make it up for you. It comes as a kit from Altronics. You make up the circuit board, and connect it in parallel with your oil pressure sensor wire, when it senses the rising voltage (settable) it switches on your Hobbs, when voltage drops (engine off) it switches Hobbs off. I haven't used it myself but found it when researching a similar problem, switching an idiot light which you could do as well. Here's a screen grab from the Altronics site

Sorry for reposting this vid, I only checked aviation videos section. Cheers Rick

The pilot kept pretty cool for cats when he saw the unexpected!

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but to my thinking, adjustment of the aileron linkage will ultimately just move the position of the control stick. When the ailerons move to a point of least wind resistance they will be in the same position they were before the adjustment, but the control stick will have moved over one side or other, and you will still have your unwanted roll. I can't get past this idea so please let me know the theory of the adjusting of the aileron link. Cheers Rick

Hi Xavier, A friends Sav had a turn to the left as well, very annoying, he always flew left wing low. So I fixed it for him with a trim tab on the middle of right inner aileron bent slightly down. Size was about 200 X 50 plus 19 for overlap on the trailing edge of the aileron. Remove the small rivets at the trailing edge of the aileron and replace them fixing the trim tab as well. Fly's straight and level now. Cheers Rick

Always a struggle getting those brackets to fit all the holes, the last one I did the rear three outside holes were so far out I got them welded over and drilled new holes. Did you try lining up the outside holes before the channel holes, the channel holes are more receptive to moving with the taper. Cheers Rick

The mixture screw as it is commonly called is actually the idle air mixture screw and it controls the amount of air (not fuel) in the idle circuit, so screwing it in for less air richens the mix, screw it out for more air an leaner mix. This only affects the idle circuit. When the butterfly opens up a bit there is not enough vacuum through the idle circuit an the job is taken over by the midrange circuit, the needle jet and jet needle, then once the jet needle is withdrawn enough the full throttle mixture is controlled by the main jet. So moving the idle mixture screw will affect your idling but not your cruise speed. I think just covering a portion of your radiator with some duct tape will raise the temps a bit and easy to go back or you could try a fitting a coolant thermostat, see John Gilpins Stolspeed site for an in depth investigation into fitting a thermostat. Hope this in someway helps. Cheers Rick

Hi Dennis, yes I know that feeling, it's called 90% done, 90% to go. Keep at it, you're making good progress Cheers Rick

Know that feeling, you go for it, just make sure you keep the photos coming. Cheers Rick

Hi Guy I think you will be able to use the throttle control supplied. I was looking at a 912is installed in a CH750 on you Tube. The engine a only has one throttle cable coming out so should be easy(ha ha!) I still reckon it's not worth the trouble and expense to put in a 912is, just my opinion. Cheers Rick

Robert I have sent you a PM Rick

Hi Xavier The Sav ailerons continue about 250 or 300mm past the outer hang bracket. Your ones are clipped off at the outer hang bracket. Your Sav -----------------------------------------------------------------------My Sav (or any other Sav) Who knows why it was done? maybe one side was damaged at the tip so was cut short instead of repairing and the other side done to match. Maybe its a secret speed mod, does yours get an extra 5 kts? Nah doesnt look like it from your vid. Maybe someone on this forum knows why. Anyway, I look forward to seeing another vid from the far north. Cheers Rick

Hi Xavier , Thanks for the interesting video, good to hear about comparisons of cameras. I would like to do set up like you have in the future. Do you have power supplied to to the cameras or do they just run on batteries? How long do the batteries last? Great place for training area by the way, how do you go for emergency landing practice? I noticed your Savannah has its outer ailerons shortened, tell us why. I enjoyed the vid, watched it a few times, I hope you pot more. Cheers Rick

Hi Mike I reckon they take a bit longer than 10 sec. I only really switched it on briefly to test it, feeling the heater with my fingers it took about that time before you could feel it warming then about maybe 30-40 sec it was quite warm. I didn't leave them there long enough to get burned. I think you would need to turn them on before you were going into icing conditions and not wait till the motor is coughing. I also installed a very small temp sensor into the carb body so as to monitor its temp so you have some idea when the carb body is near freezing. Cheers Rick

Congratulations on first flight and an outstanding build. Cheers Rick

I have installed a couple of electric carb heat systems on 912's. The heater strips just screw on the side of the carb body right at the butterfly. You could leave the old system on for legal reasons and add the elect system no problem. a picture of the kit I think the water carb heats are a bit too complicated, this electric one is easy to install, the hardest part was tapping out the holes for the screws. just one option Cheers Rick

Hi Guy, just noticed something else, the rear part of the floor (the under the seat part) is reversed, upside down. The hole for the fuel pipe should be on the pilot side, ifyou havent found it already. Cheers Rick

No I meant it supposed to go on the outside all the way around its edge, ie. you should be able to see it's edge on the outside of the fuselage. The floor as you have it should go inside the the cabin sides, not outside. Rick

Doing a good job guy, that golden glow of the alodine looks pretty special. I noticed in the photos that you have the cabin side going over the floor(at least it looks that way), it should go under. The cabin sides should be on the outside all the way round, then the extruded angle goes over the bottom edge. Keep the photos coming it looks great. Cheers Rick

Hi Karl When you say "transpired at last runup" do you mean that the amps readings changed from a previously normal run? If so you you may want to borrow a reg from somebody with a 912 and see if normality returns. If it has always had slightly erroneous amps readings you may have the shunt or sensor in the wrong line or reversed. If you have a hall effect sensor it has to be zeroed. also you could check the actual reading with an ammeter. I have no experience with the dynon but have put in a couple MGL efis's and I had to try the sensor on a couple wires and reversed it before I was happy with the info it was giving me. Also have you installed a 22000uF capacitor across the output of the reg as per the rotax install manual? You'll get there Karl, don't worry. Cheers Rick

Port Pirie is not too for away, might even get hangarage there as well.