rick morawski

Hi Guy I find fitting the cowl one of the most frustrating jobs in the build, sometimes they go easy, most times not! I have fitted them both inside and out but last few have settled on putting it inside. Problems to look out for when fitting it inside are - Naca scoop on top cowl fouls with top of left carb, need too leave adequate clearance at rear of spinner for withdrawal of cowl. Advantages are neat and tidy tight fit at rear of cowl, disadvantage of fiddly removal so as not to scratch the spinner. You seem to have found the problems of fitting outside, though I have found that interference at the water radiator mostly can be fixed with tighter fitment if pipes and large HD zip ties to hold up the rear end. Advantages are easy removal for engine servicing, disadvantage is the often loose look of the fitment. Choices, choices

Maybe the flap lever disengaged(if you had them engaged). If the flap mechanism detent is not fully engaged in the slot it can let the flaps go with quite a bang. Happened to me once on landing round out, nearly soiled my undies. Now I always make sure I feel the release knob come up when setting the flaps. Cheers Rick

Nobody knows where that distance is measured. Dont worry, if you mounted the frame up with the jig in the correct holes then it will fit. The important bit is the diagonals on top must be equal before drilling. If the vertical legs are long and foul with the extrusion from the cabin side its ok to trim enough to fit and no more. Its harder to get the first hole in the vertical leg because you have the jig clecoed on but you will get it.

You're not building an RV here, dont worry too much about airflow. Most builders put it (the cowl) on the outside for ease of removing cowl to check the motor. Factory ones come with the cowl inside and the manual says put it inside. You figure whats best.

I'm pretty sure it doesn't say to use the black rivets (you found them huh???) It uses A5 (your normal bigger rivet) where the holes line up with the firewall, and soft squeezed rivets at the front in the smaller holes. you may not even need the small rivets, they are just to hold the corners down because of the curve of the firewall. What's not in the manual is that you can put the plates on the outside if you are putting the cowl inside, and you put the plates inside if you are having the cowl mounted outside. If you are having trouble now you are really going to cry when putting on the cowl, inside or outside???

I upload it again in a different format Basically it means the edges of the cabin side skin should be on the outside all the way around.

If its not specific about rivet direction then its your choice. I rivet from bottom up, as you say - looks better. I see from the second photo that you have the cabin side inside the floor, should be the other way, cabin side under the floor. See page below (highlight is mine). Chapter 15 FRONT FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY.pdf Chapter 15 FRONT FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY.pdf Chapter 15 FRONT FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY.pdf

Yes, needs a bit of caressing into position.

Solid wire

Hi erd72 I used the A820 friction lock/ solid wire control from aircraft spruce, part no. 05-09436 In your original post you said you wanted something that's "plug and play", these controls are not that. They require a fair bit of work to fit.

Looks beastly. Hope it comes with a stepladder.

here, the dimensions in the picture are where you drill a hole, put a grommet in then the wire thru.

where abouts what? me no undystandy

just have it 50mm or so out the top of the fuse at the back to connect to the cable coming out of the stab, run it (through grommets in the fuse frames) sort of diagonally a bit till you get to the bottom. Make sure you have it the right way round or you will be swearing alot later.

No, run it down the left side of the fuse, under the left seat, up the left side of the cabin footwell, to the back left side or the instrument panel where it should joyfully meet with the trim switch and indicator.

I agree with Rank, useless. That area cops a lot of stress in a hard landing situation. Better use the spec rivets or A5 instead.

No hugs here. Where are you intending to use them?

Yes, just a small plastic bag full, maybe less than 100. Usually in the same box all tha A4 rivets came in.

Flush rivets are countersunk rivets, they will be there next to the A3 rivets you couldnt find. Have another mummy look. What I do is get everything thats in a plastic bag like nuts, bolts , rivets etc and stick them up on a board with drawing pins, lined up with each box they came out of. if you take it off the board you mark the board where it was so you know you actually had it. It works, all the little bags are there to see, no searching. Honestly every person who has built a kit (including myself) has sworn there's something missing, only, embarassingly, to find it later on down the track.

Yes correct, they are the aileron horn stops, see control section.

Hi Carlos I think it would be the tyre is out of balance. The "tundra" tyre is really a golf cart tyre and they don't bother with balance issues when manufacturing because they only go slow. When they are put on an aircraft where they go fast then balance issue can show up. You could swap the tyre with one of the mains or get a new one but still no guarantee it will be balanced. I read where one guy tried five tyres before he got one that was good enough. Cheers Rick

Yes you could put in electric trim cable and battery cable and battery box (if you are having battery at the back hatch), and baggage compartment back and bottom, unless you want to torture yourself trying to crawl in there and rivet it afterwards.

what are "these"?

Have a look in the section called "controls" Should be a picture like the one below. I put the numbers in, see 5 nylon blocks edit : there is a trapezoidal shaped one that goes thu the skin right at the back

No, leave the most forward nylon block to go on the seat front when you do the cabin/forward fuselage.