Jump to content

Started the Couger


Sloper

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 205
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Goodaye all

 

Have roughly fitted the fuel cells in the fusulauge.

 

 

Front one in.

 

The front one hangs on 2 extra braces l had to put in with 2 straps going around it to secure it, l may use 2 side strapes as well.

 

The staps shown are tempory, l need to finalize the height when installing the filler neck.

 

Had to face the fittings forward so as not to interfere with the pedals.

 

 

Rear one.

 

Had to use some angle to allow the tank to hang from the rear parcel shelf brace, will be handy to fit a cover too.

 

The front is supported by the V brace.

 

Using angle for bracing the shelf l have caputed the tank to keep it form moving sideways.

 

Staps will be rubberised and some foam will be used to keep all metal from contact with the tanks.

 

Being someone who likes the idea of visuel checks on fuel levals before take off, the front tank can be dipped and the rear tank will have a visuel tube showing the leval between the rear

 

seats. l will still have guages but it confirms what the guages say.

 

Also got a new edition for the garage.

 

Can you see it?

 

 

Have some SAAA members coming around on Sunday to chew the fat.

 

regards Bruce

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bruce

 

are the tanks poly?,we did make a alum tank for our front fuse ,but changed it for the same tank as yours ,this allowed us space for the canopy actuator to be installed

 

good progress on your build

 

Cheers gareth

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Goodaye all

 

Hope you had a good Christmas and didnt drink too much. 026_cheers.gif.2a721e51b64009ae39ad1a09d8bf764e.gif

 

Been finalising the fuel cell install today, had to drill a large hole in the cell for the sender unit.

 

l drilled the hole with the cell on its side so as not to get any plastic in it.

 

Well l didnt get any plastic swarf in in but when they drilled holes for inlets and outlets those Yank's certinaly did.

 

Not happy about it but was going to check anyway, l got 90% out and will get one of my children with smaller arms to get the rest.

 

Funny it had one of those American made quility stickers on the box.

 

regards Bruce

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
There is a guy putting the new 160hp UL motor in a Sierra I will be watching this motor as it is only 20kg heavier then a Jab 6 this would give the Cougar a 150kts cruise + as it will cruise at 130kts on about 115hp.

Any thoughts or engineering needed to increase the Vne? At 150+ kt cruise you would be pretty close to the original stated Vne of 160kt. Not much margin for error...

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When our engineer was going through the testing required and dive speeds of 210kts the design only needed some small adjustments , our aircraft limits have large safety margins, like the flap speed limit if 65kts where the aircraft has been tested at 120kts full flap.

 

An extra 20kg in weight is not much, any other aircraft with 160hp motor will weight a lot more than 150kg. The fire wall engine support needs to increased, just hope the guy takes my advice on that.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When our engineer was going through the testing required and dive speeds of 210kts the design only needed some small adjustments , our aircraft limits have large safety margins, like the flap speed limit if 65kts where the aircraft has been tested at 120kts full flap.An extra 20kg in weight is not much, any other aircraft with 160hp motor will weight a lot more than 150kg. The fire wall engine support needs to increased, just hope the guy takes my advice on that.

Thanks for the response regarding the 'extra weight'. I was not only thinking of the additional weight to the aircraft but also the C of G. and the strength of the nose wheel assembly.

 

Regards, Alan Marriette.

 

483931275_MorganS0.jpg.73f764ac3e62226c7be290fd0114a176.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The aircraft we are talking about with the 160hp is a Sierra , With our aircraft with heavier motors, we now have a bigger nose leg from a 11/4" to 11/2" dia. The fire wall is moved to suite the weight of motors used like the Sierra if using a 80hp or a 120hp there is 2" difference .

I realise that it is being fitted in a Sierra but you did mention its performance in a Cougar.

 

Alan.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Good point Alan, We have a larger nose leg 11/2"x 83 thou heat treated,as it will have an extra 100lb on it, the C/G would move, so the fire wall would also move. My blue Cougar nose length is ok ,you may notice the grey Cougar has a longer nose,this is good for a 4 seater with the Jab engine weight,where my blue one is limited to 75kg in the rear seat. I am also looking at a longer canopy (my new sierra canopy we made a 3m long bubble),a lot less curve)and move the join aft for better entry to the back seat,a better folding seat,also a lot more sweep on the fin.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good point Alan, We have a larger nose leg 11/2"x 83 thou heat treated,as it will have an extra 100lb on it, the C/G would move, so the fire wall would also move. My blue Cougar nose length is ok ,you may notice the grey Cougar has a longer nose,this is good for a 4 seater with the Jab engine weight,where my blue one is limited to 75kg in the rear seat. I am also looking at a longer canopy (my new sierra canopy we made a 3m long bubble),a lot less curve)and move the join aft for better entry to the back seat,a better folding seat,also a lot more sweep on the fin.

Thanks for the reply Gary, I knew that you would be improving your aircraft all of the time, I just wanted to let everybody know on this forum. 107_score_010.gif.2fa64cd6c3a0f3d769ce8a3c21d3ff90.gif

 

Alan.

 

803712086_MorganS0.jpg.ba17630a3ee869df256858bfef709482.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Goodaye all

 

Been a while, not much work done on the plane but a heap of car maintence.

 

Have a idea about the elevator trim that l would like to run past people.

 

Always trying to have redundacy l wanted to be able to use the elevator trim to fly the aircraft if the elevator cable or controls failed.

 

Flown a warrior with the trim wheel just for the experience (not landing or take off)

 

Have a look at the pic and give me some thoughts.

 

 

First the trim wheel is conected to a relay lever by a continuos length of bungee.

 

Then connected to the relay lever is a Bowden cable that is connected to the elevator horn.

 

Simple l think.

 

l would expect to have a number of positions in the relay lever to get the force required right and the bugee cable would be 1.5-2m long.

 

Cant see me getting much done until after April, have anew decking to build and one of my sons purchased a Gemini rolling shell which muggens here will have to paint and get it going.

 

regards Bruce

 

 

  • Caution 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's not geared low enough!.No finesse of operation..why not get one of those electric servos ( R.C. Allen) and plant it in the tailplane..( I did) ...otherwise look for a geared right angled drive.(turn the handle and you get a push pull motion) ..an italian company used to make one. Ingegno I believe....They also make great wheels.........

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Sloper

 

Craig and I installed a Ray allen servo with trim indicator and dual control switches , the servo is very light and has a lot of pull and is very finite in controlling the trim flaps ( we install 100mmx600mm trim flaps into our elavator)

 

it is easily controlled and the total cost about $400 and a loom of 5 wires to the rear ,just my solution

 

cheeers Gareth

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had my Allen servo for 7 years now, I got the up/down rocker and the positional led with it... works fine. Althought I like that manual red thing in the previous post. But then you have to have a push/ pull cable which spells disaster if I jams ( just like my original one..) .OK if you can get access...are you going to move the whole elevator asd a trim opr put a tab on the trailing edge.?... ( much simpler ) ......

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...