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So a few weeks back I ventured down the road of a Foxcon Terrier 200. 19 catagory and out of the air for a couple of years. Purchased complete and in fully functional order but a bit rough around the edges. Me being me and not trusting anyone else's work iv decided to completely strip the aircraft and start from scratch. 

 

Glad Im going down the road I am as it has proved to be pretty typical of an under maintained, neglected aircraft, no disrespect to any previous owner/builder of the aircraft at all, I'd just like to meet a particular standard, also found a crack repair that needs some love and attention. Going to keep updating the build thread if anyone has the interest, always welcome constructive critique and advice. Ii have a lot of fabrication and mechanical background but by no means am I any kind of expert. 

 

2005 Foxcon Terrier 200

EA81 Subaru

Foxcon retrieve

Bolly Prop

Steam gauge avionics panel

258hrs TT

 

 

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Looking forward to seeing your progress. Do you have an engine for it? I have several in stores and one engine reconditioned with modified heads and cam . I reconditioned it in anticipation that I may need it for my Avid, but it’s proving to be so reliable that I fear that it will never wear out

 

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50 minutes ago, Paul davenport said:

Looking forward to seeing your progress. Do you have an engine for it? I have several in stores and one engine reconditioned with modified heads and cam . I reconditioned it in anticipation that I may need it for my Avid, but it’s proving to be so reliable that I fear that it will never wear out

 

I bought it complete with a running ea81 with a foxcon redrive. All low hour but was in the market to possibly get a second engine to build. What did you have?

 

Thanks

 

Rob

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More progress today, have managed get about 8 hours of manual scarping and tidy up work. the original whit was painted over with an aqua colour which i managed to find an original pic of when it was green, then it was repainted in what looks to be like a Galmet Hammertone industrial paint, very thick, which iv attached a pic of as well when it was at Armidale.

 

    So.....after experimenting with a few non methylene chloride strippers in small patches, which was extremely timely and had to still be super careful not to damage anything, i decided against any paint stripper. They say methylene chloride Strippers wont affect the Gel coat but i really wasn't that confident in it. after stuffing around with surfacing machines and sanders in patches, i managed to get a few large scrapers from Bunnings which honestly has been the best, for the most part i can take off all layers of paint down to the original primer in one swoop, still have to be careful but once you get a rythm going it rips the paint off in no time. 

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Good looking aircraft. A local aero club member had on which had not been built with any real care but I could imagine that correctly built it would be very nice indeed . Quite fast and the Subaru engine while not bulletproof, it’s not far from it . He normally cruised around 100 + knots on around 22 phone. Keep at it we are all waiting for the first flight

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Laid up the new panel face, cut away the old panel and bonded it to the old upper dash top, still a bit of work left on the panel, 2 more layers of carbon over the whole lot.........then to do the center console etc. Stuck at home isolating so I'm actually able to get things done

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6 minutes ago, Paul davenport said:

You are really getting stuck into it good on you . Looking forward to seeing it fly soon

Using the time while i can, Im looking forward to flying it

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New carbon face finished and relayed tip with carbon reinforcing. Shame to be painting over majority of it but going to stick to the plan, original panel assembly was pretty flimsy......took way longer than it should have

 

Also new avionics ordered today so once i work out where everything is going to sit and where i need to run  the new loom and RDAC I can finish off the body work then paint. 

 

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Nice work, look forward to your progress and the finished work.

 

What is the clear coat, 2 pack brand?   I haven't done any work that needed a two pack finish for a while.

Edited by Blueadventures
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the "clear coat" as you call it is just the resin, if you're looking the other photos you will see it has been sanded back so it can accept paint and it now has the matt finish

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10 hours ago, FlyBoy1960 said:

the "clear coat" as you call it is just the resin, if you're looking the other photos you will see it has been sanded back so it can accept paint and it now has the matt finish

yeah i recoated with west system epoxy 205, fantastic product honestly

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Minor update, first lot of avionics have arrived, new aero classic 21" tundra tires are here.  been smashed with work but trying to get bits done on the fuselage as required.

 

just about to refurb the rims and put new tyres on etc.

Im pretty happy i decided to bulk strip the aircraft as everything is in need of attention, pretty disappointed in the work that has gone into this armature built, I'm really not into discrediting anyone but its a real shame to see the lack of safety measures and just straight lack of pride in work and complete disregard for upkeep and general maintenance that this aircraft has had

 

 

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Edited by Peasant_Pilot
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Running these same wheels on the thruster with 6x6.00 aircraft tyres have found they don't grip the beads very well and will tear the valve stem off at low pressure even without brakes. Problem solved with two short self tapping screws each side on the inner diameter.  Screws go into the rubber by about 3mm.

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1 minute ago, Thruster88 said:

Running these same wheels on the thruster with 6x6.00 aircraft tyres have found they don't grip the beads very well and will tear the valve stem off at low pressure even without brakes. Problem solved with two short self tapping screws each side on the inner diameter.  Screws go into the rubber by about 3mm.

like a bead lock?  i saw a go kart hub with some bead lock screws in a similar fashion, might have to look into that as well

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16 minutes ago, Thruster88 said:

Yes a bead lock. Think you will need them with those big tyres and brakes

honestly completely overlooked that, cheers for the input, ill keep you upto date

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1 hour ago, Peasant_Pilot said:

honestly completely overlooked that, cheers for the input, ill keep you upto date

You can actually buy some purpose made nipples that screw into the rim, much better than a self tapper.  Used in trials bikes for years

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39 minutes ago, FlyBoy1960 said:

You can actually buy some purpose made nipples that screw into the rim, much better than a self tapper.  Used in trials bikes for years

I'll have a further look at options, might even machine something up

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Many earthmover rims have fine grooves installed at 90° to the bead seat taper, in the taper. This prevents tyres spinning on the rims, which can be a major problem with earthmovers huge torque inputs by the powertrain, to the drive tyres.

You can do this to the bead seats of a rim, in a lathe, with a straight grooving (knurling) tool.

 

https://www.lprtoolmakers.com.au/knurling-tool-3-4-shank-cuts-straight/

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