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ICP wheel assembly


rmorton

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Did you have any issues fitted the tyres that ICP supplied. I have just dug out the ones in my kit and they are the same as yours. I didn't order the 6.00x6 they were in the box. I was going to upgrade to the Condors but don't know if I will now.

Sorry have not tried yet. But I will buy some tubes with 90deg. valve, when time comes.

 

 

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Thanks Mark, I see the Condors are available in a 6 ply and an 8 ply with the 8 ply being taller. Are the 8 ply the ones I should be running?

 

Where is the best place to source the Condors?

 

 

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I got mine from Aviall and I think they were the 6ply to save a bit of weight. Aviall dont deal with us plebs anymore...not sure just do some searching on the net...they come up on ebay from time to time also there are other brands as well

 

I will ask around and see what I can find for you

 

 

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I was at ASAP last Friday and they quoted me about $149 for the 6.00x6 and I assume 6 ply. From searching on the net that looks like a good price.

 

 

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There was this talking about not drilling the wheels but using tubes with 90deg. stem and condor and...

 

Could I use simple tubes with 90deg. and the provided tyres. Or do I misunderstand the hole topic?

 

I would buy something like that:

 

Amazon.com: Stens 170-054 Tube, Replaces Carlisle: 3202900, Tubesize: 15-6-6, 15-6.00-6, 15x6.00-6, 15x6.00x6, 15x6x6, Stem Angle Type: 90 Degrees/TR87: Industrial & Scientific

 

 

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  • 6 months later...

So finally I resumed production! Having made the mistake of drilling the rim and then having to get the hole welded (thank you Paul G for a brilliant job) I finally went to the tire specialist and had new inner tubes with 90 degree valves and the supplied tires assembled. Total cost for three tubes and assembly 75 Chfs, which for the work they did was well worth the money. The trick as stated here seems to be to cover the whole of the wheel with lube (a sort of black soap in this case) Press one half of the wheel into the tire and then set the valve in position with the inner tube stuffed into the tire. Add a small amount of air so the tire takes shape but only just. Then wiggle the second half of the wheel into place and insert the bolts and finger tighten the nuts. If needed add more air so that the inner tube doesn't get caught between the two wheel halves. tighten progressively the three nuts and check for pinching. If needed add more air so the inner tube moves clear of the gap. Repeat until the two halves are tight, then jack up the air to full pressure. Step back and feel good that at last it looks like a real aeroplane!!! :) and enjoy.

 

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Good to hear from you Richard.

 

You might consider one more step. Once the wheels are pumped up for the first time, release all air again and then fill up again. This allowes the inner tube to fit better.

 

 

  • Agree 2
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Hi Thomas You are absolutely right in two of the pictures you can see that the valve hasn't fully seated so I will try to let the air out and re-inflate. I dont know why but this simple(because someone else did the hard part ) achievement was very satisfying and gives the impression that you have made progress! Also now getting on with the first wing

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just to confirm that the advice in the video and given by Thomas is correct. I let the air out of the two tires, repositioned the valve stems to come out at 90 degrees and re-inflated. Bingo both are now easy to access and look the part! I just can't see why the supplied inner tubes were straight valves, hopefully I won't find out once it is all put together.....

 

 

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When fitting tyres and tubes, French chalk dusting powder (industrial talc) is your friend - and your tubes friend. French chalk lubricates the surface of rubber, eliminates friction between tyre and tube, and assists in tyre fitting.

 

Liberally dust the inner surface of the tyre and the tube, and the bead, with French chalk before assembly, and you will be surprised at the improvement in fitting ability.

 

 

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