Started a spare parts list

[Blueadventures]

1 hour ago, Moneybox said:

I want to buy a new electric fuel pump for the Sportstar but I’ve been too busy to research it.

I put Sandra onto Virgin for the flight back to Perth last night now I can get the credit card out again.

1st option is like for like.  Is it a Facet pump?  If so buy from a good seller; could be poor knock copies out there.  What is in it now?

[skippydiesel]

Moneybox - Rotax have specifications for Boost Pump maximum fuel pressure.

 

Your aircraft manufacturer may have a recommended pump to do the job. I would stick with the recommendation unless you have good cause to do something else.

Your existing pump is likly to have Maker, Model. Part Number somewhere on it (If it a Facet it is normally embossed , not always, on the mounting bracket

 

Should you be unable to determine the existing pump you should start by reading the following"

 

Always with reference to your engine ( 912 ULS 100 hp?)

• Installation Manual, Chapter 73-00-00 , Engine Fuel & Control, Pages 7-8, Boost pump Max pressure 4.5 psi
• Operators Manual, Chapter 5, Performance & Fuel Consumption, Pages 8, 5.2) Fuel Consumption, Specific consumption at max. continuous performance, 27L/hr

It not quit as simple as just purchasing a pump that will deliver 4.5 psi.

• Your aircraft likely has a return fuel line with restrictor jet somewhere in the line. ie the pump must accommodate this flow.
• The maximum fuel your engine will burn is 27L/hr, the pump must accommodate this flow.
• The Boost pump should deliver at least 2 psi - 4.5 psi in work,  accommodating both carburettor  & return line flow,  if it is to act as an emergency fuel supply system, say in early Climb Out (Max power).

 

Most aircraft in the recreational class will use a Facet Cube pump https://facet-purolator.com/specifications/

 

 

[onetrack]

You'll be right. I went through the border in mid-May with 4.5 tonnes of earthmover parts covered in Victorian dirt and crap, and the young bloke on duty was pretty cheery, and simply blew the load down with a leaf blower, and let me through! And the truck was unregistered, too!  LOL

However, he did need my movement permit number for his records. Weed seeds are what they're mostly concerned about, and if you've come from any area where known problems exist.

[skippydiesel]

10 hours ago, onetrack said:

You'll be right. I went through the border in mid-May with 4.5 tonnes of earthmover parts covered in Victorian dirt and crap, and the young bloke on duty was pretty cheery, and simply blew the load down with a leaf blower, and let me through! And the truck was unregistered, too!  LOL

However, he did need my movement permit number for his records. Weed seeds are what they're mostly concerned about, and if you've come from any area where known problems exist.

Maaaate! It's ALL pests &  diseases. A few examples you may have heard of -  fire ants, varroa mite, fire blight apple mosaic virus, rust etc etc

 

Australians  are way way too laid back about organic quarantine - we used to pride ourselves in having a clean environment.

[onetrack]

No fire ants in Victoria AFAIK, and I wasn't carrying honey or honey products, or fruit. Rust? Yeah, I had plenty of rusty components! LOL 

Never heard of rust being a quarantine problem for W.A., we've had rust in wheat here since the earliest part of the 20th century. Skeleton weed is still a concern.

[Red]

On 23/03/2023 at 8:47 AM, danny_galaga said:

Latest item is the regulator/rectifier. I got a Carmo. Less wires and runs cooler.

 

Made in the Netherlands.

 

HUP HOLLAND! HUP!

 

 🙂

Danny I just got a carmo reg/rec.....did you ground the case?, the accompanying drawing shows no ground connection to case which tbh would make things difficult mounting wise, I'll give carmo a call on monday but saw you mention them and thought worth an ask

[danny_galaga]

4 hours ago, Red said:

Danny I just got a carmo reg/rec.....did you ground the case?, the accompanying drawing shows no ground connection to case which tbh would make things difficult mounting wise, I'll give carmo a call on monday but saw you mention them and thought worth an ask

You don't need to ground the case per se as there is a negative lead. I hadn't given that much thought as mine is in a new build so I wired it accordingly. Good question!

[skippydiesel]

I ground my rectifier/regulator case by;

• Fixing it to the metal airframe
• Running a dedicated earth/ground wire, from one of the fixing screws, to a negative bus 

 

I strongly recomend the installation/use of a dedicated negative/earth return circuit for all 12 volt systems.

[danny_galaga]

27 minutes ago, skippydiesel said:

I ground my rectifier/regulator case by;

• Fixing it to the metal airframe
• Running a dedicated earth/ground wire, from one of the fixing screws, to a negative bus 

 

I strongly recomend the installation/use of a dedicated negative/earth return circuit for all 12 volt systems.

Agree. In this case we are talking about the CARR5115 regulator. 

[skippydiesel]

Nice clear schematics Danny - Although not shown, would still run a dedicated negative/earth return circuit connecting to the device body.

Although chassi/airframe returns are common, I don't like their  potential, over time, for a little bit of oxidisation /paint/dirt/movement to increase the return resistance, in some cases, to the point of nil continuity.

The cost & weight of dedicated return circuit (usually in parallel with the airframe) is negligible.

[danny_galaga]

55 minutes ago, skippydiesel said:

Nice clear schematics Danny - Although not shown, would still run a dedicated negative/earth return circuit connecting to the device body.

Although chassi/airframe returns are common, I don't like their  potential, over time, for a little bit of oxidisation /paint/dirt/movement to increase the return resistance, in some cases, to the point of nil continuity.

The cost & weight of dedicated return circuit (usually in parallel with the airframe) is negligible.

You're preaching to the converted. Earth return on everything on my build. My regulator is hooked up directly to the positive and negative of the battery (well from memory to the bus bar) and the heat sink itself doesn't require an earth from memory as you can see from the differences in the two regulator diagrams. 

Edited September 9, 2024 by danny_galaga

[Blueadventures]

11 minutes ago, danny_galaga said:

You're preaching to the converted. Earth return on everything on my build. My regulator is hooked up directly to the positive and negative of the battery (well from memory to the bus bar) and the heat sink itself doesn't require an earth from memory as you can see from the differences in the two regulator diagrams. 

And the negative green connects to airframe. As well as battery negative?  Agree heat sink / mount does not need to be grounded.

Edited September 9, 2024 by Blueadventures

[danny_galaga]

1 hour ago, Blueadventures said:

And the negative green connects to airframe. As well as battery negative?  Agree heat sink / mount does not need to be grounded.

The only "earth" on my plane is the negative battery cable going to a bolt on the starter motor rear housing. Everything else is negative wired. The airframe almost certainly has negative potential because something will ground the engine to it somewhere along the way (for instance the throttle cable. Or maybe the Facet fuel pump) but it's not part of the "deliberate" electrical system.

Edited September 9, 2024 by danny_galaga

[Blueadventures]

41 minutes ago, danny_galaga said:

The only "earth" on my plane is the negative battery cable going to a bolt on the starter motor rear housing. Everything else is negative wired. The airframe almost certainly has negative potential because something will ground the engine to it somewhere along the way (for instance the throttle cable. Or maybe the Facet fuel pump) but it's not part of the "deliberate" electrical system.

 

41 minutes ago, danny_galaga said:

The only "earth" on my plane is the negative battery cable going to a bolt on the starter motor rear housing. Everything else is negative wired. The airframe almost certainly has negative potential because something will ground the engine to it somewhere along the way (for instance the throttle cable. Or maybe the Facet fuel pump) but it's not part of the "deliberate" electrical system.

Just asking if the green wire from the RecReg going to the battery negative; also has a connection to the airframe? Like in the schematic.

 

On my build I has three negative ground posts that all grounds connect to so I'm not relying on the airframe connection to the battery negative for grounding circuit.  Cheers.

[skippydiesel]

41 minutes ago, danny_galaga said:

The only "earth" on my plane is the negative battery cable going to a bolt on the starter motor rear housing. Everything else is negative wired. The airframe almost certainly has negative potential because something will ground the engine to it somewhere along the way (for instance the throttle cable. Or maybe the Facet fuel pump) but it's not part of the "deliberate" electrical system.

Earth/Ground/Negative - pretty much all the same in 12V circuit. Terminology varies with country/upbringing.

 

Probably should have taken "holy orders" - you have sort of made my point - connect everything electrical (all bodies/housings/mounting brackets) to a negative return circuit. You will never regret it and may even come to "Thank the Lord" you went down this track (I even do my cars like this )😈

[danny_galaga]

Yeah, we are saying the same thing in different ways. Electrically, saying "earth" on DC voltage electrics in cars, trucks etc implies a common "ground" connection, nowadays always negative via a metal chassis, body etc. as you know, that's what is happening in your car. Just saying "negative" doesn't automatically tell you how it's created. That's why I was trying to be really clear. Some cars up until the 1950's had positive ground! Pommy of course 😄

 

So with my auto electrical background, knowing how problematic earth return/ground/common is on things like trailers and boats, I fully understand and embrace "earth return" wiring in an aircraft. That is, wire carries the current for both positive and negative. No device on my aircraft is powered via current transmitted through the metal of the airframe.

 

 

[danny_galaga]

2 hours ago, Blueadventures said:

 

Just asking if the green wire from the RecReg going to the battery negative; also has a connection to the airframe? Like in the schematic.

 

On my build I has three negative ground posts that all grounds connect to so I'm not relying on the airframe connection to the battery negative for grounding circuit.  Cheers.

No. I'm not even sure why they put that earth symbol there, other than to say if you've wired your aircraft with negative earth (that is, instead of having a negative wire going to devices, the battery negative connects to the metal airframe and your device gets its negative from the airframe, like a car does). In any case it's probably best to use wire for the negative of your regulator, not the airframe.

[skippydiesel]

With the Flood carburettor kit - be sure you know what is include before purchase.

 

I think you are correct about the Gates 6.3mmID (1/4").

 

Unless there is something unusual about your Rotax installation, the 6.3 will  be correct Note the fuel line clamps at the end of the flyer below:

 

https://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/-/media/files/gates-au/automotive/brochures/cooling-system-and-hose-products/gates-fuel-hose-flyer--june-2018.pdf

 

I find  getting the correct hose ID to be no problem but working out how much length you need, allowing for the inevitable mistakes is always a challenge.

 

If the Repco person/store is any good, you should be able to negotiate a discount. 

[Blueadventures]

Money box the inlet to the fuel pump on engine is 8mm (5/16)  outlet to carbs 6.3mm ( 1/4 ).

[Red]

9 hours ago, skippydiesel said:

I ground my rectifier/regulator case by;

• Fixing it to the metal airframe
• Running a dedicated earth/ground wire, from one of the fixing screws, to a negative bus 

 

I strongly recomend the installation/use of a dedicated negative/earth return circuit for all 12 volt systems.

Carmo reg has a negative lead

[Red]

3 hours ago, danny_galaga said:

Yeah, we are saying the same thing in different ways. Electrically, saying "earth" on DC voltage electrics in cars, trucks etc implies a common "ground" connection, nowadays always negative via a metal chassis, body etc. as you know, that's what is happening in your car. Just saying "negative" doesn't automatically tell you how it's created. That's why I was trying to be really clear. Some cars up until the 1950's had positive ground! Pommy of course 😄

 

So with my auto electrical background, knowing how problematic earth return/ground/common is on things like trailers and boats, I fully understand and embrace "earth return" wiring in an aircraft. That is, wire carries the current for both positive and negative. No device on my aircraft is powered via current transmitted through the metal of the airframe.

 

 

I agree that is best practice and already provided with the Carmo,  did you end up with the case grounded anyway just because its easier to mount to something metal thats probably grounded itself and adds some heatsinking?

[danny_galaga]

1 hour ago, Red said:

I agree that is best practice and already provided with the Carmo,  did you end up with the case grounded anyway just because its easier to mount to something metal thats probably grounded itself and adds some heatsinking?

I haven't looked at it closely but I seem to recall the mounts are stand off, which lets air circulate behind. My firewall is fibreglass, with aluminium covered fibreglass heat shielding, so maybe it's grounded on that but (again from memory) the regulator is potted in a generic heat sink So I don't know if there is even an electrical connection, in other words I have a feeling it's above ground.

[danny_galaga]

1 hour ago, Moneybox said:

 

This is the kit I hope to get. I could probably save some money buying from the states but I've been ripped off by Americans more than any other race that I dealt with and I used to trade internationally. 

It's actually quite hard getting genuine Rotax stuff from overseas suppliers. They seem to be region -locked, like a 1990s computer game 😄

[skippydiesel]

Not all overseas suppliers, of Rotax parts, are bound by Rotax regional agreements. Often the up front price is very competitive BUT the often very painful sting, is the delivery charge.😈

 

[skippydiesel]

"The outside of the engine looks terrible. I need to find a very good aluminium cleaner. "

 

Older Rotax 9's tend to be a tad dull (exception being the rocker boxes).  I don't mind mine being dull, but they must be reasonably clean.