sfGnome Posted December 7, 2023 Author Share Posted December 7, 2023 1 hour ago, facthunter said: Approval of an engine usually has the installation as part of it. Certainly the case with VH (and LSA?) Not including the installation Makes no sense. Nev Yes, it’s the engine, the airframe and how it is all put together. I limited my initial question because a) it was the engine that I was not confident about, and b) at that stage I didn’t realise the scope of the issue. Now I know… 🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted December 7, 2023 Share Posted December 7, 2023 So !. Such a little thing as changing the " fuel collator drain valve " to a " none " tso'd cheaper or available type , Will void your " aircraft " approval. Only for your insurance . ( I have been trying to get a replacement " Curtis 1/ 8" N P taper " ) . spacesailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon Canary Posted December 8, 2023 Share Posted December 8, 2023 On 7/12/2023 at 2:17 PM, RFguy said: Had a useful and constructive meeting with RAaus today. Don’t tease us - are you at liberty to share the conversation, or at least the outcome ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFguy Posted December 8, 2023 Share Posted December 8, 2023 mmm a couple of things 1) on points of fault / incident reporting. seems the biggest reason for not getting fault/ error reporting is people thinking someone will get in trouble or it will adversely affect them for whatever reason. Need to figure out a way to change that mindset to the right sort of no blame/ no fault. Of course- no blame no fault cant be unbounded - so that's the sticky bit. I've heard of two Jabiru oil filters splitting, (could be the high pulsing PRV or could be mfr defect or steel too light or ????? ----but they have not heard of this- this is an example of owner/operator reporting defficiencies. 2) With regards to the meat of the discussion, my concerns with a certain manufacturer's behaviour - there has been an ownership change , and broadly issues I have raised as a company culture problem will get addressed, but it wont be overnight. -glen 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi Posted December 8, 2023 Share Posted December 8, 2023 23 hours ago, spacesailor said: So !. Such a little thing as changing the " fuel collator drain valve " to a " none " tso'd cheaper or available type , Will void your " aircraft " approval. Only for your insurance . ( I have been trying to get a replacement " Curtis 1/ 8" N P taper " ) . spacesailor Superior Air Parts at Archerfield has them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippydiesel Posted December 8, 2023 Share Posted December 8, 2023 Kiwi - Don't know why you want the above drain valve but if it helps the O ring (seal) is replaceable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgwilson Posted December 8, 2023 Share Posted December 8, 2023 He's not, just advising a replacement. And yes I have a curtis fuel drain valve. I have replaced the o-ring 2 times in 8 years. These things are pretty much bullet proof. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippydiesel Posted December 8, 2023 Share Posted December 8, 2023 Sorry I should have addressed the assistance to Spacesailer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted December 8, 2023 Share Posted December 8, 2023 There you go : After buying Two " Curtis N,P.Taper valves!. only to receive " N.P.Straight valves. The first returned but no postage . Gets expensive . The second one doesn't return my messages . So I will try " Skyshop " . Why don't they use English : Taper or Straight .: instead of , Curtis N,P,T, 1550 . " Such is life " spacesailor 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted December 9, 2023 Share Posted December 9, 2023 IF the part is shown the straight one has to have enough shoulder to have a sealing washer to contact it. The taper thread is visibly obvious also. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 NOT that visible. Was going to return it but they never answered my email . So have to wear it. spacesailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 NO shoulder. The thread doesn't look to have the Taper it should. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thruster88 Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 3 hours ago, spacesailor said: NOT that visible. Was going to return it but they never answered my email . So have to wear it. spacesailor Just swap the Oring to your old one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 But how do you get the o ring off . So ! . Not fit for purpose . Therefore I should have a refund or replacement. Then , that postage cost , wipes out most of the refund . spacesailorl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgwilson Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 Simple. Remove the valve. Push and twist the spring loaded shut off valve so the bar sits in the open position seat, remove O ring & fit a new one, flick the bar back & it closes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 That might have an" Oh" ring to it? Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 But ! , That 'simple ' remove the Oring, is hard , to get a grip on it . Can a ' pin ( needle ) be used to get under the rubber ring . Without damage . Then were, to buy a new " Oring " .as it has to be petrol proof. spacesailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 I think they ALL are these days. Use a plastic knitting needle. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 Too big for that ' size ' Oring . spacesailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 Wooden toothpick then. Have clean hands and "pinch" a rise in the "O" ring and raise it with the thick end of the toothpick and ease it off. Auto spares shops should have various sized O rings Nev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippydiesel Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 (edited) You can also purchase a set of handy awl type O ring removing tools : These are $17 on eBay - very handy Edited December 10, 2023 by skippydiesel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 I used a ' crochet ' hook !, & found the Oring was split . Now I know why it keeps a steady drip . spacesailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgwilson Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 Good grief. You don't need any tools. Cut the old one off & roll the new one on. 2 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted December 11, 2023 Share Posted December 11, 2023 Sounds like ' you're a surgeon ' This Oring is SO tiny 6 mm OD . Maybe 3 mm ID. & 1 & a bit thick . spacesailor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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