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IBob

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Everything posted by IBob

  1. Yes. As I recall, with the tip pivots in, I used a fine marker to mark through the 0.235 hole onto the stab flange. I then disassembled and clamped a piece of thick scrap (steel?) with a 0.235 hole in it, over my marking on the stab flange. This held the drill centered so I could drill the stab flange. I also took a bit off the tip of the stab flange so that it cleared the elevator skin at that point.
  2. I think that's excellent advice any time you get stuck in a build.
  3. My money is on the paint they apply to all the fabricated steel assemblies: the bush will be greased inside during final assembly, the paint needs to come off. If the bush or the bolt are wrong, ICP need to be told.
  4. Looks to be plus and minus 1.5thou for the AN3, Onetrack? http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ra/an.html
  5. Hi again Bryan. That 0.005 surprises me a bit: I would have thought the stud was a standard AN3 bolt, welded to the backing plate, unless they have changed how they are doing it. Have you been able to clean the paint back from that part?
  6. PS There's a layer of black paint on the pin too: some careful smoothing of that with fine emery may be required if the bush is still tight.
  7. Hi Bryan, 1. The bushes sometimes have a slightly raised inner lip at one end, where they were parted off during manufacture. This needs taking off, I used a small deburring tool. 2. The pin is AN3, and should take an AN3 nut (all the bolts in the kit are AN, except perhaps the little ones in the trim linkage, and the big SS ones that hold the main undercarriage). I would look at the pin very closely to check there is no damage or weld spatter (since the pin is welded to a backing plate.) I would then try more than one nut, in case you have a damaged nut. If no nut/s would start, I would then clean up the tip of the pin, where the thread starts, with a fine file: once the nut is on, the thread at the tip does nothing.
  8. Nice crackle finish(?) on that panel too, Mark.
  9. Interesting (if unsettling) sequence of events, Kevin. I'm certainly no engine expert either, but can I ask the following questions: 1. Do you have hydraulic lifters? 2. Did you turn over the engine at all between emptying and refilling oil? 3. You mention a dropped valve seat, also minor contact with piston. Is it possible that the contact bent the valve, which then dislodged the seat? (Hard to tell from the pic.) Also I fished up this, which I expect you have already seen, but if not you may find informative:
  10. I made my own simple wing LE root fairings, as I didn't like the way the standard fairing (which just extends the LE shape inboard until it meets the windscreen) intrudes on the pilot's vision. They are just a flat aluminium shape, curved round, nothing 3D. I am a reasonable DIY pattern maker, but it was a surprisingly long job getting a pattern for the shape. Sorry, I can't comment on performance as this was done before she flew. In the case of the Sav, I doubt there would have been any difference.
  11. Just don't go to the BMW shop and say 'Show us yer nuts'..........
  12. Amazing, yes! I would imagine Zipline chose to prototype this in Rwanda for various practical reasons around environment, regulation and liability. Note also this is taking place next to where kids can't even afford a real football. So a disturbing juxtaposition of gee whiz futurism and ongoing poverty.
  13. I'd have to say mine look very much like copper, and I don't think it's a protective plating. Could they be bronze? They have the fine cut part way across them, like the small nut in the first illustration above.
  14. Very nice Bryan, and good to see they have that sorted out: I have the older f/glass wingtips...which are also an exercise in fitting.
  15. Bryan, the door top does close against this with a degree of pressure. And although I have only ever built the one aircraft, I would be very surprised if there were a kitplane out there where every single part arrived cut, bent and drilled perfectly. I think the Savannah kit does very well in that respect, but there remains a small amount of what I would call 'fitting'. You're going to love the rear fuselage assembly.....but if you have the extended baggage, be sure to fit that before the rear fuse skins.....)
  16. Ah, I had misunderstood you. I was not thinking to introduce a bounce. I was thinking more along the lines of setting the aircraft up in final landing configuration and attitude, but at safe altitude. Then applying full power, and experiencing and handling the pitch up.
  17. I don't disagree with you, Facthunter, but surely this is a situation every student will face with a missed landing/go around?
  18. Yep, that's something I think should be emphasised and practised in training. Or should have been for me: the degree to which full flaps, full up trim pitches the aircraft up when full power is applied caught me unawares for one episode of very poor piloting.......(
  19. Hi Bryan, 1. They seem to have the part numbers for R and L wing muddled on Page 32/36 that you have shown. I noted this in my build, the correct numbers for R and L are on the previous Page (L wing numbers are in brackets). So check you have the correct parts. 2. If you go to the instructions on that Page 31/36, it says at the end 'Note that they have to be filed to fit inside SB003-5/6'. I believe this is what I did: trimmed/filed them as necessary so that the assembly sits in correctly against the wing rib. 3. Nowhere in my build did I have to move holes. I used correct sized tapered podgers a lot to ease holes into line, and sometimes it was a matter of assembling or clekoing in a different order. But the holes always lined up. I would regard drilling new holes as an absolute last resort. (4. When you get to it, I had similar problems fitting the seat pans under the adjustable seats: initially I couldn't see how they would fit, but it was just a matter of trimming/filing small amounts off the pan edges at the points where they were binding.) PS: While they refer to this part as the 'root wing door support' the door actually pivots on fixtures on the front and rear door columns. When closed, the top of the door presses against this 'root wing door support' closing the air gap there.
  20. And that's what folk don't seem able or willing to do. A while back someone lent me a book by David Icke. I got no further than page 1 where he states that Karl Marx was part of a capitalist plot. A quick search of David Icke then reveals that he is a conspiracy theorist of long standing, charismatic with a large following. That he was once publicly ridiculed on BBC TV for saying he was the son of God. That he wore turquoise (I think) for one whole period, something to do with receiving energy and vibrations. That he thinks (or thought) extraterrestrial lizards are running planet Earth. And that's just the start of it, old stuff long before the current surge in 'beliefs'. But somebody bought this book.....and lends it to whoever they can. It's like the world has lost it's collective marbles.......(
  21. I'm told that, now the whole Covid thing has gone a bit stale, the talking heads who push this sort of sh*te have 'pivoted' to climate change, just who is responsible or not and what is actually going on there. It seems to me most of the playbook on this stuff comes ready-packaged from the US. And it seems to find a home with folk are chronically indignant.
  22. A good mate of mine told me 'they' were looking at confining us all to within a few miles of our town/village. In fact they may be already trying it.....somewhere like Cambridge, he thought. No thought to how that could be achieved and policed, quite apart from the likely reaction of the populace to any such thing. But he did express surprise and horror that some of his informants....including people he knows.....think Putin is a nice man.... What can ya do???
  23. Some folk seem to be magnets for that sort of stuff....with no apparent ability or tendency to do any sort of reality check. Just about everyone knows at least one of those folk by now: sometimes they are good friends or family. And nobody has yet figured out what can be done about it, since arguing over the 'facts' seems to have no positive effect at all.
  24. Good points, Skippy. Regarding the balance tube, I'd be curious to know the specific function it was designed for. It is a skinny little tube and I find it hard to imagine much mixture travelling through it: I don't think I would be relying on it to compensate for mismatched throttle openings. As for the Bowden cables, I'm sure you're right, though my kit came with DIY cables you cut and thread yourself, and I doubt they are very high tech. I should probably have added that I am looking for smooth free operation of the levers and cables when checking them, and especially as the standard setup is only positive when closing the throttles: on opening, we are relying on the carb throttle arm springs to pull the cables.
  25. It was just a suggestion for a very simple check that has worked well on my 912ULS. If it was vibration free before (?) I would be looking at what has been altered/replaced in the work you mention.
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