Kyle Communications

Glad you found the issue..that sounds like it will be the problem. It couldnt have been anything else

Yes they do well ln the installs I have seen do..the IS engines seem to issues with plugs etc from the couple at our airfield. They have had issues luckily on the ground where they dont start..turned out to be a lot of the internal plug connections from what I have been told

Check out my rebuild on here it may help you although I have done my own strengthening mods in the critical areas

I think you will find you have the noseleg fork on the wrong way..it needs to be spun 180 deg

V16 with the head and box..hope this link works https://www.facebook.com/mark.kyle.980/videos/10223583214233579/

Glen If I get any given to me I will send them down to you...your a glutton for punishment 🙂 Make the radio a box with a small 2/14 head as not a lot of dash space with some of these panels now or 2 ipads in the dash. The MGL V16 is pretty good its a semi DSP style radio it has the chassis you mount somewhere then just uses a CAN bus for the display head. it works pretty well I have been using one here on the test bench for a while it is going into my RANS S-21 with MGL EFIS full autopilot etc. The V16 comes up on the Efis display but I also got the Vega head so i can still have "knob" control.

Aaron...just remember your headset will be directly inline and pretty close the RF coming off the antenna. Internal antennas not only are difficult to do properly but can have a lot of RF interference into your electronics

The problen is you just cant get a lot of this inside many aircraft so you just try to get as much as you can inside. I have seen a few dipoles inside some Jab aircraft but these dont have very good radiation patterns it again depends on the orientation of the antenns. Its all a compromise in composite aircraft. All alu aircraft of course its simple.

1/4 wave in free space at 118 mhz is 635 mm so anything above that size will be ok...obviously the more you can get the better and yes you can run radials out from this to increas the size. Its all relative really on how you do it to fit your particular aircraft. The one thing to always remember is more is better. So make it as big as you can. Also remember too that the more one sided your counterpoise is this will also offset the radiation pattern that you are transmitting so try to keep it symetrical if you want roughly the same signal output in all directions. If you want to do some quick numbers the formula is 300 divided by the frequency in megaherts then divded by 4 ..this will give you the numbers in free space for a 1/4 wave but if you want to know the length in coax then you multiply by the velocity factor of the coax. usually you will do this in the centre of the frequency band or on a specific frequency if you want it "tuned" to a point

Mobile One makes a aviation antenna that has a 1/4 wave stub antenna underneath it. It works..often used on the tailboom of trikes. I use one up at my farm on a post. I have a proper base station ground plane antenna now that will go up there. When you put the hole through the fuselage you would be best served to get some 20 thou sheet and make it at least 600 square or round if you can and shape it roughly to the inside contour of the skin and either glue it there or attach it somehow. It depends a lot on the antenna but as I said the more metal area you can get it will work better

I have always hated the foil. Much prefer to use say 0.020 sheet as the antenna base can then bite into the alu without breaking through

Eprop are saying 4kg including the spinner

The earth plate should be connected to the frame of the aircraft even though its just tube as the more mass you can get attached to the earth the better On the lightspeed mine is turned all the way dow...not 1/4 turn on as I found the gain to be massive with the lightspeed. Then do the adjustment on the Xcom

Looks like a Brumby in SA had a scare in a paddock..something about a fuel pump issue. Well it looks like a new Brumby

No pricing yet of course as I said on the Eprop IFA or CS units. I dont think it is going to be cheap but I suppose when you see the pricing of the Airmaster and others..who knows. Anyway as soon as I know something I will post it here

on the lightspeeds with a Xcom... you need to remove the mic muff and adjust the mic gain pot in the actual mic section. Typically it is turned all the way down then you adjust the mic gain on the Xcom to suit. The Lightspeeds seem to ahve a lot of audio out so you need to dampen it down

Bad SWR..not enough earth ground plane on the base of the antenna. Its RF getting up the nose of the mic or leads of the headsets Skyranger is fabric and alu tube..do you have at least 600x600 alu plate somewhere that the antenna is mounted on?

Yes it only goes on the threads no where else. I used it on my Savannah every time I changed the plugs

Its the same stuff as used for transistor heatsinks..go to Jaycar or altronics and get the white heastsink silcone paste

Dan the quickest and easiest way to confirm there is something wrong with the charge coils for the CDI or a issue with shorting inside the harness is to use a multimeter and do the test for voltage as you spin the engine over with the starter..this will at least give you some better direction to look at

Dan I know you have done a lot of checks as per emails. M61A1 Mick has posted his issue...this is more than likely similar to yours. This would certainly give you the symptoms you are seeing. Do the test with the multimeter on AC volts on the red wires this will confirm you are getting power or not and you dont need to pull the engine out

Sorry Mike I didnt see your previous post on the voltages.

Dan To help you with this I went to the hangar this morning and I did some measurements on my test rig for the voltages coming from the CDI coils in the stator. The measurements are engine RPM then the AC volts you will measure with a Digital multimeter and the AC volts peak to peak you would measure on a CRO which of course is the real voltage as the multimeter will only read the RMS and be somewhat lower due to the wave shape of the pulse Maybe 300RPM is what your starter will swing the engine over at so you should see some voltage on the Red wires coming from the generator Make sure you have the red wires disconnected from the CDI this will be fine to test the voltages by just winding the starter over without any danger of the engine firing. Most likely the voltage will be slightly different when connected to the CDI as therewill be a loading effect....I used a Fluke multimeter and a Siglent 200mhz CRO RPM METER CRO 300 5.4V 20V 520 9.2V 40V 800 14V 60V 1000 18.5V 80V 2000 34.5V 150V 3000 50V 200V 4000 66V 300V

Dan if there is a close gap..I mean extremely close from one of the coils to ground you wont read any resistance until the engine is rotated then the higher voltage induced into the coil could track over to the freame..this will stop the CDI from working...did you disconnect the main power wires from the CDI 2 generator coils and test with a multimeter on AC while spinning the engine over?..this is important because it will tell you if is what is happening

Talking about drag...check this out