Kyle Communications

I used a company in Sydney...I think it was called Racetech

All of the people so far using them have all stated that they have had to modify the landing phase a little as you dont get the same braking force now so glide should be a lot further. The prop setup for this being a fixed pitch prop is different for "normal" use compared to a CS unit. The setup is the same as what most setup their props for which is general use. You would never setup your fixed pitch prop for 5800 rpm WOT as this means yes you will get the best takeoff your can but then cruise will be crap...by a big amount. You only setup a fixed pitch prop like that if you were in a stol competition then repitch it for the flight home otherwise it will take a lot longer to get home. This is where a CS unit will always win Max power is at 5800 rpm (maximum 5 mins) on the rotax but max CONTINUOUS power is 5500 rpm. Whatever load you place on the engine at the 5500 rpm the only differences in that load will affect fuel flow and thats it. Most will setup their props for WOT at 5500 rpm so whatever take off and climb performance you get will be fixed. When compared to a Bolly setup for 5500 WOT on climb you will only get about 5200 or maybe 5300 rpm if you have a shallowish climb. The Eprop seems to be able to achieve 5500 or almost that amount of RPM at climb. This means you will get better climb performance because your also spinning the prop faster. This has been proved on every single aircraft the prop has been put on. You can ask every single person who has fitted one so far and ask them if they would go back to their original prop and none will want to. All except one who has a insurance issue and type approval issues...he doesnt want to go back but has no choice if he wants to keep his insurance on a factory built aircraft Any fixed pitch prop is going to a compromise for all phases of flight it just depends of course what phase of flight you want specifically or if you want a good all round performance with a leading to the phase you would like. That will take a lot of prop adjusting. Most just want to fit the prop and go fly. I have to admit I have learnt a lot over these past few months about power and props and setups also different blade shapes and effects on performance.

When the noseleg of the sav was ripped off it was bottom cowl and floor and oil cooler and radiator also a prop and spinner and a gearbox inspection rebuild. Beauty was the insurance paid for all the parts and even paid me to fix it. One of the advantages of building your own

mid 2021 she says so you might have your nosewheel fixed by then

Just had a email back from Eprop...they will be offering a manual and a electric and a hydraulic system for their units

I was told a few weeks ago they are having major dramas with the electronic control...cant get it working well enough. Need some pretty good software guys to get it sorted and that takes a lot of money...believe me I know...The software guy we use for the stuff I develop at work is amazing but he is also paid accordingly Bolly should just start with the IFA much simpler and easier and you can start getting some bucks back in for your development. I am pretty sure a lot of people would just like the manual IFA

I saw one in Europe some time ago not sure who it was from the only other was that Bolly one I posted the video of. That IFA was used on that aussie guys video of the turbine he had on a test stand a few years ago. I think from memory that was a bolly one. I will see if I can find out

Actually its interesting all this talk on props be it fixed or CS type and performance mission When I was in the USA flying the RANS S-21 to see if I would like it they use a Whirlwind 75 inch STOL prop as their standard prop. It is well known that its a great STOL prop but not that good for cruise. I was looking for a alternative and thats when I came upon the Eprop from someone in another country. They have tried almost every brand of prop..but not the Whirlwind though. Here the WW is about 3.5k at least maybe even more now. The WW is a very popular propeller as it is a locally made USA product and from what I have read does work very well. Tim Howes has one on his Storch and he said he noticed a big difference in performance Obviously if there isnt much difference between your choices in performance then price is a big factor unless you have way too much money to burn. There is of course no better prop than a CS. As a matter of interest would you consider a manual IFA rather than a electrically driven CSU?....Personally I would like the manual type as less to go wrong especially knowing one guy who has replaced the DC motor in his Airmaster a couple of times and also a lot of others have had issues the same even with the other brands. A IFA is still complex mechanically essentially but it takes out another possibile failure factor

As far as punch in my comments...I just can not justify the cost of a CS prop as I said so its never really been a big thing in my front of mind. Of course there are plenty of people around that have the bucks and good luck to them but my bank balance is stretched far enough

hahahaha you should know my answer to your last part of your post....put on a Eprop and it will be better than your Fitti 😁

I looked at all that data and agin there are some quite different results depending on blade size and type. Again you need to select the best for your particular wants and even with the CS unit there is still quite a difference between missions. To be honest I have not been interested really in a CS unit because of what i stated before. The cost performance ratio is way out of balance. The extra weight you carry affects carrying capacity and weight and balance dramatically and then you get beaten around the head for the costs. I dont think the Eprop version will be very cheap either so the cost will be similar when you are up at that level of money but the difference in weight and balance is very dramatic. The blade design of the Eprop is very different and from what I have seen much better in performance than any other prop when setup the same so I would think their CS unit would be even quite a lot better than whats available now On that airmaster chart I would take either the SNR68C or the WR70W as you want a fast climb but cruise will be affected but again not knowing what your airfield is like or the existing performance is it is hard to decide. But the big lesson to take away from those results is again a CS is still a compromise

As a matter of interest Eprop are developing a CS. I asked them a few things and wont be available until mid next year They are currently testing their versions now but no pricing yet Here is some info I got back from them "Our range of variable pitch propellers is currently being tested. Deliveries not before mid-2021, and no prices for the moment, because we have not finished the production machines, so we can't calculate the cost prices. The performance is amazing and the weight... 3,4 kg for the 3-blade, 4 kg complete with spinner all inclusive." 4kg complete is amazing thats more than 2 kg less than a Bolly std prop with the extension for a savannah

The bandwidth was the usable total bandwidth...thats the band edges I couldnt get a usable tune for min SWR The rx and tx bandwidth is about 6 or 7 khz..so if you move frequency say 20khz up or down the band you need to retune.

Jab 7292 I was astounded at how well this looped worked on 40mtrs. I tested it inside my big shed where I build my aircraft. it was sitting on a wooden block just off the concrete leaning on my work bench I use for the aircraft building..I think I have a pic I will find it. I was hearing stations in VK2 and also the boys up in Bundaberg chatting with so little noise it was nuts. Here at my QTH the noise is terrible. I had my IC-9100 on the Butternut vertical on the roof of the shed and my 7100 on the loop..it was chalk and cheese. I was using 10 watts only to talk back to the bundy guys and was getting 7x9 reports. Truely blown away by its performance

VANS !!! hahaha wash your mouth out with soap :)...its a RANS

No I meant a early submarine hunter not the aircraft when is your Aeropup going to be ready jack?

yes never thought of that...a early Neptune or Orion

my mounting system is quite agricultural..good old high pressure PVC pipe 🙂

now thats a LF loop 🙂

That loop does 3mhz to 11 mhz using a 15kv vacumm capacitor 500pf Its run with a auto driver unit I made it has a stepper motor driving the tuning capacitor. It is probably the best HF antenna I have used. Just incredible because of the super narrow bandwidth it just kills all the noise. They are just unwieldy to try to fixture and rotate but they work best at only about 1 mtr from the ground. I made mine from 50mm alu tube as you can see. because they work on skin effect it really doesnt matter what metal you seem to use but as I found out the diameter of that material does matter. This loop should have worked to around 15mhz but after I had played with it and did some further experiments a much smaller diameter would have done the job. maybe a loop from 12mm tube not 50mm tube

Dont think my Savannah would like to tow this behind it 🙂

Trailing a wire was common practice in the 2nd world war. No different than a glider tow rope from the tug except you wind it in and out. I used to supply radio systems to aircraft ferry pilots most had a relay style tuner with a wire they would run from inside the cockpit to the top of the fin then out to a wingtip. That would usually give you enough wire out to make reasonable contacts on HF Most of the modern relay tuners only require around 10 to 13 mtrs of wire hung off them to operate ok

Marty Glassing is easy..just messy. Must get all the air out of the weave thats all so use the ribbed rollers. You probably need to cut some 10mm ply and cut out to match the curves on the outside then glass those onto the outside of the cowls to make them hold their shape..then your good to go. A tip though is to make those supports all level so you can lay the mold on them and they are solid on the ground as you layup the glass. The only other thingis good canuba way first and many coats then spar on your release agaent then go to town glassing and make sure you squeeze as much loose resin out of the weave. Have a look at Mike Patey's Youtube channel...carbon fibre and normal glass there is really no difference in the way he does his layup..although he prepregs everything because he can but the old way is fine with a brush

When I spoke to them they were not interested in producing the mechanical vernier version which I think is a better way to go anyway...fine for TO and then set what you want for cruise...nice and simple and no motors or electronics to burn out which is a common thing with all of these CS units. This video is 6 years ago..one would think they may have it done by now. They could have been selling the manual one straight away