Kyle Communications

11/07/23 Modified pitot mount bracket and riveted to rib #6. Marked-up and cut pitot mounting holes in lower LH wing skin. Vacuumed swarf from wing cavity. 2.1h

What about on those days like like riding a rollercoaster or just outright bumpy all the time..then its almost useless...cant beat sight gauges...but a low wing is a issue...capacitive type would be a better solution I think

I dont know about your assumption of number 1...I know plenty that dont have positive pressure into the fuel tank. I actually made my own pressure sender and trialed it on a tank similar to the belite system about 2 years ago. It used the weight of the fuel as the pressure value....in all the testing I did on it I deemed it a failure. G forces on the fuel threw it all totally out. I used a high end 4-20ma pressure sensor and placed it in the bottom of a 10 litre tank and a 20 litre tank..did some real world testing on it using code I wrote just to monitor the values of the sensor...it was not stable enough for my liking. I looked for some pics I took but cant find them...I may have them on my work computer and I will have a look tomorrow. I say you cant beat sight gauges though.

How can your internal fuel tank not be at the ambient pressure...It does have a breather..that keeps the tank at the ambient pressure

Skippy its called research..if you went and found out how the sensors worked and usually with some searching of google images you will see how to hook up the sensor. You re trying to set it with a dynon skyview...wouldnt it make sense to ask Dynon for some guidance?..if they cant give you any then its up to you to see if you can sort it out. It may not be possible due to the way Dynon does its inputs. You will then need to see what ADC is used for the Dynon inputs or if all their gear is CAN bus or RS232...dont know. I would have to do the required research to make it all hook up just like I am suggesting you do. You are trying to do something that is not normally done so you have to make your own roadmap then

too expensive

26/06/23 Trimmed stringer and notched around truss. Clecoed bottom skin to ribs and stringer. Drilled leading edge to front spar. Removed skin, deburred and dimpled. Microstop countersunk main spar and clecoed skin back to front spar, ribs and stringer. 4.6h

On a new engine you will have got the terminals required in the small cardboard box supplied with the engine. at least for the ignition shutdown which is shown in your picture. Separate wires are run back from those 2 modules back to the 2 switches on your panel.

The softstart inputs on the module are just joined together then a wire run back from those two inputs to the coil energising wire of the solenoid. There should only be 12v on the softstart wire while the starter solenoid is engaged. One the solenoid is not in use and there is no 12V on that point the input of the CDI there is a timing circuit inside it that holds the genuine Rotax units for about 6 seconds in full retard. After that 6 seconds then the engine switches to full advance and stays there until the engine is eventually shutdown after running or flight

Doing the modified cowl for Mabel was a friggin nightmare......I have a new most hated job now

I have the terminals if you want some That will be the kill sw wire it will be under the oragnce wire coming from the CDI module side. The mauve/purple wire at the CDI end is softstart is that a new engine?

Been cold in the workshop at night so havent done a lot in there. The twin stick coupling cover has been finalised and now carpeted. I have the cover attached. I put 3mm rivnuts into the floor and the cover nicely screws down and is super solid. The roof ribs are now painted and set onto the cabin overheads. The windscreen has been trimmed and also all drilled and also the roof section and all clecoed This week I will be reinstalling the ballistic chute box I made and getting the chute mounted and fitting the chute actuator. Not sure where that will end up yet. Some are on the top of the dash others are in front of the pilot on the cross member...so will make that decision later

Go to facebook and look up AOPA Australia..look at te last 3 videos Ben Morgan has done..watch the first one done 3 days ago then the next a day ago and the last one today. ....Its a eye opener especially the guy with the foxbat in RAA and has a defib

If you hook it up wrong I doubt it would be replaced under warranty....thats not in any manufacturers pervue

Thats probably a 4-20ma sender. Is there any numbers on the sender? some are 0.5 to 4.5V analogue style though

If it is the stickon type plastic sensor they are either a serial data out of a open collector transistor

You will find any aircraft wet hire will have to operate as a certified aircraft. Its a different matter if you have a mate who has a aircraft and "lets" you fly it. it does not have to be a certified aircraft. The only thing is though that you would usually be named on his insurance policy...if he has one of course and also how many hours you have up will be taken into account for that policy. If its not insured then be prepared to soak up the bill for any repairs if you damage it though.

My later version flap bracket had deeper notches...it made the engagement a lot more positive and highly unlikely to ever jump out even after a lot of wear.

02/06/23 Trimmed, deburred and clecoed Flap and Aileron Gap Seals to Rear Spar. Riveted final four rows of LH Wing upper skin rivets to ribs. Riveted Gap seals to Rear Spar. Upper skin of LH Wing complete. 4.4h

31/05/23 Riveted LH upper wing skin to ribs, fuel tank supports and stringers up to 4th last row. Match drilled upper flange of rear spar. Deburred rear spar and wing skin. 5.4h

29/05/23 Removed upper LH wing skin and deburred leading edge spar. Roller applied two coats of corrosion inhibitor to spars, ribs, stringers and tank supports. Replaced wing skin and clecoed in tank supports. Riveted leading edge of skin to spar. 4.3h

The new sensors also had a unacceptable failure rate especially for about 400 bucks each. They went away from the Honeywell one to a German one...starts with a K...something like Keller. Not sure how relaible the new ones are. I have had a Honeywell fail and I put a VDO resistor style in but I remote mounted it so take out the hammering they get from the crankcase. I now remote mount even the electronic sensors. You can see it next to the CDI module the silver one is my fuel pressure sender it is a 0-5V electronic type not the 4-20ma type

Lets face it Rotax specify 2000 hr TBO....a bad run in wouldnt show up until after 2000 hr of ops

Sized up the required area for the twin stick control cover. It is there just incase something gets on the floor and decides to go in under the control yoke at the bottom and jam the controls. It will be coverd in carpet and I will use velcro to affix a front section on it that acts like a vertical glovebox. I did the same in "The Girlfriend" I have a little 600mm panbrake here so after hand making a pattern I transferred that to some 0.016 alu and started cuttong and then folding. I am not a sheet metal guy but it didnt come out too bad...but the carpet will hide a multitude of sins. Gotsome final fitting to do for the mounting.

27/05/23 Assembled RH wing aileron bellcrank. 0.4h