Kyle Communications

Hi Bob Just hammertone paint. I do like that finish. The Girlfriend I actually had the later dash Hammertone powder coated..that was really good. I have to say the choke mod is so much better than the ICP thing...Think I will do the same on the RANS when I finally start it. Was hoping to start the engine tomorrow but got sidetracked yeasterday..was layed up in bed most of the day after some wierd reaction to Typhoid/HepA injection I needed to have before going to Thailand next month for a mates wedding and still felt crap this morning. Sort of came good this arvo and the boss had me doing dog fencing here 😞. So later next week or on the weekend I hope to get it started. It hasnt been running for more than 5 years but of course has new cyclinders and pistons with the big bore. It should be fine Mark

All done and installed for the choke. Very happy how it operates

Interesting...I have never seen that...its pretty much what we have done except the cables are covered from the acetal block. KISS is always betterer Thanks for the pictures Mike

Havent seen it..can you take a picture and post it here?

I have been trying to get time on Mabel but spending a lot of time up at the farm trying to get the house finished over this past month or so. . Currently have the avionics wired but cant do all the setups or checks of sensors until I start the engine. All fluids are in and no leaks for about 1 month so thats a good start. The last thing I needed to do was get the choke organised and as anyone who has done a rotax choke they are a real PIA. Mick from Oakey made a unit up for his aircraft and Danny looked at it as he needed one for his Esqual..Danny redseigned it a little bit and once I saw it the bloody thing is easy and brilliant. Its self leveling across the long and short cables. The springs on the chokes of course pull the choke loop back in. I CNC'd a acetal block and danny used his small tube bender and made me a SS loop. Ordered some nylon lines bike cable outer and some 1mm SS wire from bunnings. Set it up tonight and it slides nicely and looks like it will be a treat. So once I fit that..opefully tomorrow I will get Mabel out to the carport and fit the Eprop and hopefully go for a engine start on the weekend. If anyone is interested I may get some made for sale. It can be mounted flush behind a dash or under the bottom lip of your dash. Just need a alu bracket. I may modify it a little so it can be bolted in from the front of the dash as well.

The 20nm on Airservices stuff is nothing to bank on. I read somewhere that if you are above 5000 ft then you are more likely to be seen on the system. But you have to remember that the 20watts is the distance limiting factor as well. Path loss at 1090mhz is pretty high On calibration part of what is done is the tech calibrates or at least checks the calibration of the barometric source that is attached to a TSO'd unit. You need a certificate for it every 2 years

News from Eprop INFORMATION: now E-PROPS Durandal propellers TBO = 4000 hrs. For both EASA certified or non-certified propellers.

Looks like the rebate program is finishing in May 2023. so better get in for the rebate

Looks like the rebate program is finishing in May 2023. so better get in for the rebate

Mine is a XL but essentially no difference...I am rebuilding a Sav S model that was crashed...here is the link to it if you want to maybe pickup some other stuff... This blog

The output hoses ext from the wing at the back of the ribs near the traing edges of the wing. The vent system well thats another matter. If you look at my blog I did it differently. Venting for the tanks using the std method in the manual using 3mm tube from the fuel tank caps is crap. I had a insect block one and had to make a diversion on bingo fuel to recify it and then I had a full tank available. I think I showed the fix in the blog..its pretty huge so go through it and it may give you some ideas Page 5 and 6 I think you will see the start of my fuel system and sight gauges Page 36 you can see the new breathers that just fit into the fuel caps

this is easy. no drama really

I put my home address as I am building...If its already built then put the hangar number and address I would think

You go to the rebate website and register links to it are in this thread. You will need copy of your RAA registration aircraft details You need to sign and scan a form that says you installed it There is another online form to fill out cant remember what it is. Everything you need to know is on the rebate website. its a Business govt website...it all pretty easy just make sure you fill out the paperwork properly

Good to see you using at least one deustch connector I use deutsch for everything except my CAN bus stuff

All your mic and heaset wiring needs to be shielded. DO NOT earth the shields at both ends only the aircraft end. Your headset sockets must not be grounded to the aircraft frame keep them totally isolated. All earths should be bought back to the one place for all your avionics. I use a earthing brass bar..basically a Neutral link like used in your house. You bring the negative from the battery to that link then onto the engine. Earth loops cause all the issues usually

Just get a free Gmail address..you dont get spam on it and it just works with everyone

Runs on JetA or petrol Maybe just another pipe dream https://www.ac-aero.com/swift-fl150/

I filled out the forms for my mate for his SE2. he got his rebate after 8 weeks...he is the builder as well. He signed all the forms of course

Well I am a home builder and as I said earlier I got the 50% rebate..it was about 30 mins of work to do the paperwork and the govt fella paid me $4035 for my trouble

Our airfield is or can be very busy. I always call at 10nm to let all know what direction and height I am coming in from then call again at 3 miles letting all know how I will approach whether direct into downwind of crosswicd...then normal landing calls etc. That way everyone SHOULD know where I am

Skippy...no its the process. RAA have nothing to do with it except promote it..if you want to take advantage of the offer of 50%..YOU have to do the legwork dealing with the bureaucrats

Here is a circuit..this is all you need. Even powering from a SM supply wont be a issue Use a pot to set the volts then remove the pot and measure it and then put a fixed resistor of the same value in that spot..will be more stable

The 338 is a pretty hardy device...from memory you need a capacitor and 2 resistors. or at least 1 resistor to set the output voltage. thats it but remember 12v in and 5V out you are dropping 7 V across the regulator. So using ohms law you want 2amps to charge your Ipad or whatever thats now 14Watt of wasted power all done in heat. if anything will kill the 338 is not enough heatsinking Oh the capacitor is very important. it stops self oscillation and maybe some lower value 10nf or 100nf ceramic bypass caps would be a good thing too Mark

If you are the builder then you sign off on it no drama. I did exactly that and got the grant. I biought the Uavionix Tailbeacon X with the AV-30 and cost was $8070...the govt fella paid $4035 into my account after 6 weeks