Jump to content

And a Savannah S in Sweden.


Skee

Recommended Posts

Dennis

 

To get the max possible and a good trade off between climb and cruise I set my pitch so that flat out RPM in level flight was 5600. The max HP on th rotax is 5800 but only for 5 mins. At 5600 you can run all day. Then on climb I get about 5250 at 60 kts. This gives me max HP available when I need it at takeoff but a safety factor if the throttle springs break then I will never over rev the engine

 

 

  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
Hows the engine going now Dennis?

Engine works fine, working out some minor things like oil tank ventilation for an example, had an issue where i was refilling oil, 1 DL per hour, and since D-motor don't have any instructions(Barely any instructions for anything) on how full the oil tank is allowed to be, i had overfilled mine and the overflow went into engine after the air filter, i'm not refilling the tank for now and they didnt like i had the oil tank connected directly to the air intake due to hot air combustion and vacuum.

So i moved the tank vent to a plastic bottle for now and ordered a proper vent tank.

 

2.jpg.e79c6c861290225548cc837439e97a18.jpg

 

Other than that ive done 15-16 hours in it so far, doing the flight tests, many of them are just dumb, like 60 degree bank full throttle and find stall speed! that was 2.2G, another test it want me to do is fludder test, fly to VNE and see if fludder occurs! VNE in a sav s is like full nose dive, not my thing.

 

These test are general for all types of planes, like one of a kind planes even.

 

Ive been trying out different flap settings starts and landings, its really easy to start and land and keep the speed, perfect regulating with the stick, when coming in for landing i just trim it max and have a perfect 75kmh/40knots glide in first flap.

 

all in i still wish it was a bit faster like the promised cruise 180kmh.

 

1.jpg.497ff99e0806051745af3a2e8a3c2514.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

180kph cruise????? thats 97 knots...no way.... mine does 97 flat out in calm conditions 5000 rpm cruise is about 85 kts with 100hp

 

Dont think I would like to be putting my aircraft to VNE

 

Sounds like a stupid test to me

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

180kph cruise????? thats 97 knots...no way.... mine does 97 flat out in calm conditions 5000 rpm cruise is about 85 kts with 100hp

Dont think I would like to be putting my aircraft to VNE

 

Sounds like a stupid test to me

what your fuel usage in liters at cruise? 85 knots?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

at 5000 its 14.5 litre at 5200 its 15.7 litres

Interesting figures.

 

At 5000 I get about 18-19lph I haven't actually done accurate tests.

 

At 4800 I get 15.6 lph. Averaged over 200 hours. As I don't have a fuel flow meter.

 

5000 gives me 85 knots

At 4800 I get 85 knots IAS and at 5000 I get 87 knots. Not worth the extra fuel burn to me.

 

Besides at 4800 and 85 knots she just feel right.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

silent-hektik.com[/url] (you may have to use google translator)32962-d2c808af5c9bb081bb343a6dee460711.jpg

Any thoughts on this?

Hey Skee,

 

came something out of your thoughts about this one. It interests me too.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Skee,came something out of your thoughts about this one. It interests me too.

I never bought it, got some comments from somewhere that it was a real hassle to connect.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So now i got some weird ass vibrations(its like one cylinder shuts down on full throttle after 10 seconds at full throttle) and uneven idling(1100rpm), their first fix was me changing pitch on the prop to a 2850rpm on full throttle at ground cause it was to rich they told me, wont my aircraft go slower now when i have a lower pitch? but disconnecting the Lambda made all issues go away, so i'm guessing at a broken lambda.

 

Ive read that lambda should be quite a bit down on the pipes but i have been told by d-motor it need to be about 20cm from the cylinder exhaust, to hot?

 

 

Now the german dealer is coming on Monday to have a look, i would have preferred to just change the lambda first as we agreed before any people coming here, what a surprise.

 

I got a little agitated/weird tone on the last call "we will get this out of the world", its not my fault ECU fails and i need to send motor to belgium, and now its behaving stupid again.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So now i got some weird ass vibrations(its like one cylinder shuts down on full throttle after 10 seconds at full throttle) and uneven idling(1100rpm), their first fix was me changing pitch on the prop to a 2850rpm on full throttle at ground cause it was to rich they told me, wont my aircraft go slower now when i have a lower pitch? but disconnecting the Lambda made all issues go away, so i'm guessing at a broken lambda.Ive read that lambda should be quite a bit down on the pipes but i have been told by d-motor it need to be about 20cm from the cylinder exhaust, to hot?

 

I am sorry to hear that you're having this problem with your d-motor: it must be very frustrating!

 

 

  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am sorry to hear that you're having this problem with your d-motor: it must be very frustrating!

It ran very good for 15 hours before the lambda issue now, i feel this has nothing to do with the ECU, broken lambda.

Well its a hobby,, isnt there always problems with hobbys.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It ran very good for 15 hours before the lambda issue now, i feel this has nothing to do with the ECU, broken lambda.Well its a hobby,, isnt there always problems with hobbys.

Hobbies are there for personal enjoyment. So, if the good truly outweighs the bad, it is a great hobby.

 

I hope you get the D-Motor up and running really well so that you can enjoy your aviation hobby!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Engine is off to belgium again,oil in Cylinder 1.

 

The dealer had a theory that when cold water from the radiators flowed in after thermostat opened made engine cold shocked so there was a crack in the cylinder, for me that sounds very long fetched.

 

I have a Thermobob thermostat that bypasses the radiators until its heated, he suggested that i would get one that circulates the whole system at lower flow.

 

20170724_121111.jpg.dc1700d866e19f70f40f53a201d60fd3.jpg

 

20170724_121107.jpg.cb5c0eaf2aa1d29e309087093bb6caff.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Engine is off to belgium again,oil in Cylinder 1.The dealer had a theory that when cold water from the radiators flowed in after thermostat opened made engine cold shocked so there was a crack in the cylinder, for me that sounds very long fetched.

 

I have a Thermobob thermostat that bypasses the radiators until its heated, he suggested that i would get one that circulates the whole system at lower flow.

 

[ATTACH=full]51390[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]51391[/ATTACH]

Hi Skee,

 

I think this sounds far fetched as well but I suppose it could be a remote possibility. But just keep this in mind: almost every water cooled internal combustion engine over the last century or so has a thermostat that stays closed until the required temperature is reached. It then opens to maintain a relatively constant temperature. This one factor is why designers opt for water cooled rather than air cooled engines.

 

In my feeling, there is something wrong with the design of the motor (or maybe just your motor only) that allows shock cooling from an opening thermostat to lead to the cylinder cracking. Hopefully, they will sort it out for you in Belgium.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...