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Battery isolator


Bruce Tuncks

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If you are crashing in rough timber or rocks you should cut power to everything before impact. Turn fuel off too

Once again, a common sense contribution from Nev. But, in the heat of the moment how many pilots to this?

 

 

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I think the ideal would be two master switches, as follows:1. an isolation switch for the battery, that is, everything will be turned off; and,

 

2. an isolation switch for the starter circuit, that is, the solenoid only will be turned off.

 

In that way pilots have the most control over any potential difficulties that may arise.

 

(with No 2, it is absolutely vital that a light on the dash indicates when the solenoid is energised)

Hi 80kts

I'm planning to fit a battery isolator to the starter circuit with it in the panel. Also the other master switch is on the left side of the panel. Should keep the battery cable short as battery is below the panel on the Nynja's.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

1721192868_isolatorswitch.JPG.af7a5f6688ec5e5eab9bde90746ab405.JPG

 

1801497749_isolatorswitch.JPG.3e55a33329960cb049da485852df279a.JPG

 

 

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Hi 80ktsI'm planning to fit a battery isolator to the starter circuit with it in the panel. Also the other master switch is on the left side of the panel. Should keep the battery cable short as battery is below the panel on the Nynja's.

Cheers

 

Mike

For information I fitted the above battery isolation switch 'Nava' brand and it is s*1t. Key in 'off' position open circuit; key turned to 'on' position still open. While turning from 'off' to 'on' and back again it closes circuit. Pulled it out today and taking back Monday. Should I change brand to Hella or another dearer better quality product? I read on google about some similar failures with 'Nava' items. Not happy; lucky not to have fail when needing to do a quick restart, say during final.

Regards

 

Mike

 

 

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I use the same style as The one that Kyle uses. I always take the key right out when I want it off, which takes any guesswork out of it as to whether it is still on or not:thumb up:.

 

Incidentally the only time it gave me trouble was when I left it on and it flattened my battery, but I guess that was more operator error:whistling:

 

 

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For information I fitted the above battery isolation switch 'Nava' brand and it is s*1t. Key in 'off' position open circuit; key turned to 'on' position still open. While turning from 'off' to 'on' and back again it closes circuit. Pulled it out today and taking back Monday. Should I change brand to Hella or another dearer better quality product? I read on google about some similar failures with 'Nava' items. Not happy; lucky not to have fail when needing to do a quick restart, say during final.Regards

Mike

This is the one I have removed. Its a 'Narva' ; pardon my incorrect spelling.

Regards

 

Mike

 

603585986_Navaisolator.JPG.a282cb6b1de39abf1634fa42a056d92b.JPG

 

 

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This is the one I have removed. Its a 'Narva' ; pardon my incorrect spelling.Regards

Mike

Looks like the one I fitted to my Guzzi after the battery had mysteriously gone flat a couple of times.

I installed a long connecting rod to turn the red key and found that even in the "off" position it carried a current because there was slight pressure holding the key in. As SD says, you need to remove the key to be sure.

 

 

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This is when I first built the Sav...it has been re sited after I fitted the twin sticks but it is[ATTACH=full]38725[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]38726[/ATTACH] still the same one

They use these kinds of isolation switches in boats a fair bit as well.

 

 

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I use the same style as The one that Kyle uses. I always take the key right out when I want it off, which takes any guesswork out of it as to whether it is still on or not:thumb up:.

Incidentally the only time it gave me trouble was when I left it on and it flattened my battery, but I guess that was more operator error:whistling:

I use a strobe control box that sounds a beeping sound and a red flashing light,the sound is turned off when you turn the isolator switch off to remind you in case you forget to take out your key.You just connect it

to you reg/rectifier.Hope that helps.

 

 

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I use a strobe control box that sounds a beeping sound and a red flashing light,the sound is turned off when you turn the isolator switch off to remind you in case you forget to take out your key.You just connect itto you reg/rectifier.Hope that helps.

How is this wired up so that it doesn't beep/flash the rest of the time?

 

 

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How is this wired up so that it doesn't beep/flash the rest of the time?

I'm no good with auto electrics but I dare say it would be similar to your alternator light. While the engine is running alls good but once it is stopped and key power is still there the light comes on.

 

 

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How is this wired up so that it doesn't beep/flash the rest of the time?

It beeps throughout the flight,I cant hear mine as the engine noise is greater than the beeping as I fly a powered parachute.For an enclosed cockpit aircraft I would mount

the control box in the engine compartment where you wont hear it during the flight.

 

 

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This is the one I have removed. Its a 'Narva' ; pardon my incorrect spelling.Regards

Mike

Returned that one (refunded) and got one same as Kyle Comms has (Thanks Mark for the info and also Jake J for his indepth info); all good now.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

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