Lyndon Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 It's interesting about the header tank. I can see that as it fills initially the air has to go somewhere. I'm guessing as no tanks get low there would never be problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I have since changed the rislan tubes they discolour and you cant see through them. I now have clear polyurethane tube in the sight guages and no further issues. I have 4 sight guages so I can see exactly how much fuel I have in all 4 tanks and I totally control what fuel is in what tank.....I am a control freak when it comes to fuel in the aircraft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 All very interesting. Would I be correct that only air lock issues would arise if you were to run a tank low ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I know of quite a lot of cases where guys with almost full tanks have had a vapor lock in the sump especially on hot days. This brings on the warning light on and the puker factor full on when you have heaps of fuel yet its telling you you are running out. Most land and clear the vapor lock then continue on...its not a everyday occurance by any means but it does happen. So I made mine so it wont happen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 Yes I could imagine that buzzer would not be a nice thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I changed out the silly light bulb in the fuel light which does blow to a 12V flashing 10 mm LED its mounted in the same case...works a treat and the failure rate is almost non existant. The flashing also attracts your attention 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 I have just done all four tank outlets. Was very much not impressed with the set up. But I removed two outlets after 24hrs to inspect the sealing. They look perfect and I'm now confident they will be fine. An overnight leak test on all outlets before fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Breathers of the four tanks. Manual says I holes top and bottom skins. I can see the top but the bottom hole is a drain ??? Inner rear location. Correct. So the existing hole in the top is redundant with the auxiliary tanks. Any tips ??? Or just drill a hole in the top and bottom to suit. Any pics would great. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 I had mine like that but went away from it after a bug blocked a tank from draining. I posted here about it...I would put the breathers in the caps like I did and probably more than half of the Sav owners have done now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultralights Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 i have a 3 tank setup, left and right inboard tanks are setup via taps, on and off only for left, and the right side, is switchable between right inboard and right outboard, ( or reserve as i call it), and off. the engine return feeds the right inboard main tank. when i fly with 3 full tanks, i take off on right main only (with the engine return otherwise it will overflow) , and fly for about an hour, this drains about 18 ltrs from it, then ill turn that off, Then i run on the right outboard reserve tank until its dry, as in, when the light comes on in the header. (the reserve tank has no level gauge) the inboard right tank is almost full again as well. i have noticed that when i open the right main tank, after the light in the header tank goes on, it takes a while to go out, sometimes quite a while, but thats usually fixed when i open the left tank as well, and fuel can then crossfeed between left and right inboard tanks to even out their levels. if i get a bit worried, or annoyed about the header tank light still being on sometime after the tank change, i will fly unbalanced for a min or 2, this fixes it pretty much every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultralights Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Breathers of the four tanks. Manual says I holes top and bottom skins. I can see the top but the bottom hole is a drain ??? Inner rear location. Correct. So the existing hole in the top is redundant with the auxiliary tanks. Any tips ??? Or just drill a hole in the top and bottom to suit. Any pics would great. Lyndon i think those drain holes are to allow water to drain out if any leaks through the skins, or the cutout for the fuel cap when in rain, also, as a drain if you have a fuel leak to stop it draining into the cabin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Hoey Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Breathers of the four tanks. Manual says I holes top and bottom skins. I can see the top but the bottom hole is a drain ??? Inner rear location. Correct. So the existing hole in the top is redundant with the auxiliary tanks. Any tips ??? Or just drill a hole in the top and bottom to suit. Any pics would great. Lyndon Hi Lyndon, I completed my VG XL in 2010, and during construction I read a few blogs warning against putting the through-wing breathers between tanks, as a tank movement can block the breather and stop fuel flow from that tank. Consequently I put breathers in the fuel caps (copied from a Gazelle) and they work perfectly. This was also suggested by another follower, I see. I am in Adelaide and would be glad to be of any assistance. PM me and set up comms. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Attached are the pics as promised. Shows my overflow from the engine going into the RHS of the manifold and the fuel tap which allows me to tun it off if I want to and also where the overflow/air return for the fuel reserve goes to the top of the inner tank. The new SS tubes for te breathers and the flashing LED setup in the original fuel reserve light 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Thanks for pics. Looks very nice. Opinions on matting for the tanks. Book recommended top and bottom. I have got some rubber. I guess enough just to stop rubbing. When I washed the tanks out I just could not believe how heavy two tanks in each wing will be. Thanks Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 These are not the drain holes for vents are they. I need to drill them Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 For interest I had my heads tested today for hardness. 1740 hrs of use. They are above 100. Apparently 130 140 when new and 60 you really have to give it some thought. So pretty good really. I'm thinking the heads would be good for another 1740 hrs. Lyndon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captaincoop Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Anyone know where to locate an air box replacement filter? I have Bosch paper filter and they don't make the anymore. Would prefer K & N but can't cross ref. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick morawski Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Anyone know where to locate an air box replacement filter? I have Bosch paper filter and they don't make the anymore. Would prefer K & N but can't cross ref. The info i have is the original filter is from a Fiat Regata 1.7D so a K&N equivalent would be a 33-2001. Check size before buying though. Cheers Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captaincoop Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Yep that's the one I found closest to my measurements. Mine is 135 width and the 33-2001 is 127mm wide. Might fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 Progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Progress Looking good, Lyndon. And some coincidence: I was revisiting some of the conversation on prep and painting, and wondering how you were going. I'm the tail surfaces and one wing into my S build; finally got the tanks sorted. I think, I hope! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 More paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 Fuel level pipe info required please.. I see you attach some fuel line to the outlets on the tank and clamp obviously. Then the rislan tube goes into the fuel line and I take it you also clamp it. Doesn't seem right to me but it does work ????. Also just typical my bottom outlet does not line up with the hole at all. Right on the edge which is a Bugger. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Fuel level pipe info required please..I see you attach some fuel line to the outlets on the tank and clamp obviously. Then the rislan tube goes into the fuel line and I take it you also clamp it. Doesn't seem right to me but it does work ????. Also just typical my bottom outlet does not line up with the hole at all. Right on the edge which is a Bugger. Lyndon I'm just doing he tanks on the S, Lyndon. The thing seems to be to temp mount the tanks before drilling any holes in tanks, or in ribs, come to that. I also (eventually) worked out all the grommet sizes I was going to need, so I could then put appropriate sized holes in the root rib etc. It's a true 'fitting' job, rather than just assembly. I can't speak for your fuel level pipes; mine just go into the side of the tank, as high and as low as practical, and positioned so as to avoid butchering the rib lightening holes. This is what I ended up with. It's upside down. I moved the bottom level pipe hole back to avoid the rib lightening hole. That's the grommet at the top there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 Thanks for that. I will have to enlarge the hole and or move it as my tank already has the fitting in it. Attachment of the rislan tube with some fuel hose is also a concern or do I have that wrong Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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