bushcaddy105 Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 2 relevant comments - The only way we have found to get rid of caltrop is a weekly walk-around with a fork and rubbish bag. Lift the whole plant out and then burn the collection in winter. Even still, after some years with negligible new plants the right combination of summer rain and warm days old seed in the ground will germinate. After getting flats at my home airport I bought golf buggy tyres for the mains. The tread is too thick for the spines to penetrate. The downside - they pick up stones on gravel strips and chuck them at the tail plane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 This place has used "Kamba.M for years now. tried burning in one paddock, plus the flame-thrower. now it's full of weeds without grass. spacesailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDQDI Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 This place has used "Kamba.M for years now. tried burning in one paddock, plus the flame-thrower. now it's full of weeds without grass.spacesailor If your weeds are Kamba resistant that is NOT a good thing, if you have resistance it is imperative that you use other methods to really clamp down and eradicate the offending weeds. If you just have weeds without grass you only really have a couple of options. 1. Plough the area and keep ploughing it each time new weeds start for maybe a year and then use a strong preemergent (that won't stop grass) and plant some grass, maybe a variety like kikuyu which will spread quickly and get good cover so the weeds can't compete. You would want to plant towards the end of spring so that the weeds had a good chance to shoot early so you can get a good hit on them. 2. (Only if the weeds are not roundup resistant!) roundup the whole area and once clean hit it with a mix of preemergent herbicides at a good rate to ensure less weeds shoot and redo it each time new weeds start and maintain it that way either constantly or for a couple of years and then you can back the preemergents off and get a good grass in to crowd the weeds out. Make sure you do NOT underdose chemicals as that is the quickest way to get resistance and that is a painful road to go down. Of course overdosing can be bad too as some chemicals leave residues which can cause problems for you later when you are trying to grow grass or crops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Hi,SDQDI It's just the horse paddock ,But four other property's have the same problems & probably had the same company to spay them. I know I'm off topic but even the "machin" AG bike with knobbly tyres has flats. spacesailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Back very quick. The neighbour's farm is Full of "Bathurst burr", spays every six months & still no difference' The cows don't seem to mind it, but it scratches our legs terribly. spacesailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kasper Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Oh forgot all about Bathurst Burr ... glad its not here either ... and with Autumn settling in the scotch thistle are starting to die back nicely ... time to drag out the plane and enjoy the cool and calm air ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDQDI Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Back very quick.The neighbour's farm is Full of "Bathurst burr", spays every six months & still no difference' The cows don't seem to mind it, but it scratches our legs terribly. spacesailor Every six months is not good enough. You need to spray when the weeds are young which will be around two to three weeks after each rain event through the spring and as needed over the summer. For Bathurst burr you don't want them getting any bigger than about 6 inches high before you hit them and for yellowvine/caltrop/cat heads/goatsheads or whatever else you call them you want to hit them before they get to a diameter of around 10 inches. If the weeds are stressed by dry weather and start to flower and set seeds you are too late no matter how little they are. The main thing is try and hit them early so they are nice and healthy and before they go to seed otherwise you are just chasing your tail and will never get rid of them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Koreelah Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 ...before they get to a diameter of around 10 inches... Could you please talk metric, SD. Some of us young blokes don't remember those medieval measurements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhtrudder Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Oh forgot all about Bathurst Burr ... glad its not here either ... and with Autumn settling in the scotch thistle are starting to die back nicely ... time to drag out the plane and enjoy the cool and calm air ;-) Burrs , I think aren't much of a problem when it come to spreading seed compared to bindies , I see the spikes now stuck in tyres everywhere , what a nightmare it will be like trying to clean up the European carp mess , no hope! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDQDI Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Could you please talk metric, SD. Some of us young blokes don't remember those medieval measurements. Wouldn't have guessed that by looking at you:amazon: Sorry OK, couldnt help it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Hi SGQDI (If the weeds are stressed by dry weather and start to flower and) we've got paddocks full of Dust here, & can't LoL. I put the hose on it last night to settle the dust, burrendong lake/dam is down to 12%, so that gave me a good guilt complex. PS 10" oldies talk equals 25 DC. that's should be about right ( about the size of your FOOT minus the toes LoL) 12 inch to the Foot minus two toes equals 10 inch spacesailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacesailor Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Oops. that's not right (PS 10" oldies talk equals 25 DC) I should have put "DM " or is it CM. Isn't it simple!. spacesailor 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippydiesel Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 With a little persistence you should be able to find an 8 ply or better, tyre to suit your application. I had good service from Kenda 8 ply tyres (wheelbarrow size, but ratted for road speeds & loads). Now have an Indonesian tyre similar to the Kenda but with higher road speed (forget the name, will have to get back to you if you are interested). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhtrudder Posted June 21, 2016 Author Share Posted June 21, 2016 My tyres are 8 ply , strong in the walls but not that thick in the tread, ended up using the goo and still had one go down over a few days used a bit more goo and it stopped and haven't had any more trouble , not bindie season at the moment though, wheels didn't seem to get out of balance so all good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippydiesel Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 I have never used "the goo". After reading most (skipped much of the agronomy) of the proceeding comments, it would seem to me that "the goo" has some benefit, when used sparingly. The temptation to use a lot of goo (more is better/not!) should be avoided as it does not improve the automatic sealing of holes and may lead to an imbalance of the wheel. I would have expected the "goo" supplier to provide instructions to guide the user - perhaps CTFarmer actually read the instructions (not a real man) from which he derived the recommendation of 100 mm/tyre. Further it would seem that the only negative to using the "goo" is that it makes tube repairs difficult/impossible. I assume even" the goo" will sometimes fail. Perhaps the solution here is to carry a spare tube or two. Was there a recommendation for the best brand of "the goo" berried somewhere in the proceeding conversation?? My aircraft is rarely exposed to the various thorny hazards listed but I have taken the precaution of using hopefully the strongest, suitable, tyres I could find 8 ply "Deli Tire" on the mains & 6ply "Mitas Aero" on the nose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabiru Phil Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 Touch wood! No flats since 10 ply tyres, about 4 years now. PHIL. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Taylor Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 What aircraft do you have and what are your current tyres and rim sizes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairoaks Flyer Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 If spraying doesn't work, use a heavier ply tyre. Even going up from 4ply to 6ply makes an enormous difference. Need to check weight & balance if going up to 10 ply as they are heavier rubber. I have been using DicambaM, and it really eliminates the bindis. However the next year the bindis return, so a follow up spray is essential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhtrudder Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 What aircraft do you have and what are your current tyres and rim sizes? Tyres are 400 / 4. 8 ply sabre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippydiesel Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 What aircraft do you have and what are your current tyres and rim sizes? Hi Scott, Are you directing this question to anyone in particular? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Tuncks Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Caltrop is actually from South Africa, where it waited for millions of years until rubber tyres and globalization set it free. The first time I wheeled my Jabiru out to test-run the engine, I got a flat tyre even though it had green slime in it. A mate from the next hangar told me to line the tyres with old tubes, he said that 2 liners would defeat the caltrop and he was right. This was with the standard cheapest 4 inch tyres supplied with the Jabiru kit. The other weed we have in Adelaide is what we called the 3 corner jack. (Emex ) This has a single seed which looks similar to a broken-off segment of caltrop but it is not so sharp or long . The 3 corner jack leaves are supposed to be edible, and they do look like spinach . If you ever try them, please let us know. A caltrop was an ancient iron "thorn" designed to damage horses hooves. The idea is still used today in police spikes designed to damage car tyres. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Taylor Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 My reply was to RHTRUDDER and I was checking to see if he had a Jabiru. I supply a 5inch two piece aluminium rim and 8ply aero classic tyre for Jabiru to replace the oringinal 4 inch wheel barrow tyres. These tyres are fairly resistant to punctures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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