Blueadventures Posted Wednesday at 04:50 AM Posted Wednesday at 04:50 AM I use the Bendix brake grease product, blue colour and also put a smear between caliper piston and back plate of brake pad to reduce squeaking. 3
BrendAn Posted Wednesday at 05:34 AM Posted Wednesday at 05:34 AM 43 minutes ago, Blueadventures said: I use the Bendix brake grease product, blue colour and also put a smear between caliper piston and back plate of brake pad to reduce squeaking. good stuff. used to come with caliper kits. anti sieze is good too. 1 1
danny_galaga Posted Wednesday at 05:35 AM Author Posted Wednesday at 05:35 AM 1 hour ago, BrendAn said: you threw us off at the start when u said the calipers were sliding ok. antisieze is fine. it has a high temp tolerance . Yes, that's the thing with very simple devices isn't it? The device is simple, it's problems can be bamboozling. The calipers were indeed sliding ok. But obviously other factors must come into play. Maybe for instance if there's the tiniest bit of inaccuracy in the pads, they might kink the slides just enough that they grab and the disk overheats, making it even more stuck. Anyway, let's see how we go using the park brakes tomorrow 1
BrendAn Posted Wednesday at 05:41 AM Posted Wednesday at 05:41 AM 6 minutes ago, danny_galaga said: Yes, that's the thing with very simple devices isn't it? The device is simple, it's problems can be bamboozling. The calipers were indeed sliding ok. But obviously other factors must come into play. Maybe for instance if there's the tiniest bit of inaccuracy in the pads, they might kink the slides just enough that they grab and the disk overheats, making it even more stuck. Anyway, let's see how we go using the park brakes tomorrow should be good now
Thruster88 Posted Wednesday at 06:03 AM Posted Wednesday at 06:03 AM Those pins don't really have to slide, they just allow for the wear in the fixed pad.
Underwood Posted Wednesday at 12:56 PM Posted Wednesday at 12:56 PM Looks to be a single piston not 2 opposing?, if so it definately needs to have some float sideways. If this is the case a clean pin with some anti sieze on and no grooves in the pin is the way to go 2
danny_galaga Posted yesterday at 01:30 AM Author Posted yesterday at 01:30 AM 19 hours ago, Thruster88 said: Those pins don't really have to slide, they just allow for the wear in the fixed pad. They do slide, as it's a single piston. It's a sort of push me, pull you action so there's (somewhat) even pressure on both pads. Anyway, went for a fly after using the park brake and I'm back to square one 😄. Left hand brake is getting hot now. Next few flights I'm not going to touch the park brake, if everything comes good again I'm going to have to suspect it's that. Might not be releasing properly or something. And if it's not that, then the brake bleed, but I'm confused why anything is getting so hot when I'm not even using the brakes. 1
facthunter Posted yesterday at 01:40 AM Posted yesterday at 01:40 AM Isn't it pulling to one side if one brake is getting hot? How HOT is Hot? If you push the plane backwards does that help? Maybe something is skewing? Cracking the bleed only confirms it's hydraulic pressure that's causing it. Most likely associated with the parking function. Nev 1
BrendAn Posted yesterday at 02:03 AM Posted yesterday at 02:03 AM 20 minutes ago, facthunter said: Isn't it pulling to one side if one brake is getting hot? How HOT is Hot? If you push the plane backwards does that help? Maybe something is skewing? Cracking the bleed only confirms it's hydraulic pressure that's causing it. Most likely associated with the parking function. Nev Cracking the bleed screw will eliminate everything apart from the caliper . If brakes are still dragging then u know it's a caliper problem. It will be a simple fix. Pretty basic brake setup. 1
Blueadventures Posted yesterday at 02:22 AM Posted yesterday at 02:22 AM Any chance of a collapsed wheel bearing causing disk rotor to lean into brake pads? 1 1
danny_galaga Posted yesterday at 02:40 AM Author Posted yesterday at 02:40 AM 57 minutes ago, facthunter said: Isn't it pulling to one side if one brake is getting hot? How HOT is Hot? If you push the plane backwards does that help? Maybe something is skewing? Cracking the bleed only confirms it's hydraulic pressure that's causing it. Most likely associated with the parking function. Nev Yes, once landed, you have to feed in some opposite rudder to keep it straight on taxi. For some reason I don't think to feed in opposite brake. Maybe because then I'll have TWO hot brakes 😄 Like I say, I'll totally leave the park brake alone for the next few flights to see what that does 1
skippydiesel Posted yesterday at 04:21 AM Posted yesterday at 04:21 AM 22 hours ago, BrendAn said: ............... anti sieze is good too. Why risk contaminating your pads - may result in replacing them ($$$$$). Best not to use any oil based product if there is the slightest chance of the material migrating - just saying.😈
BrendAn Posted yesterday at 04:24 AM Posted yesterday at 04:24 AM (edited) 🙄 6 minutes ago, skippydiesel said: Why risk contaminating your pads - may result in replacing them ($$$$$). Best not to use any oil based product if there is the slightest chance of the material migrating - just saying.😈 Edited yesterday at 04:28 AM by BrendAn
Thruster88 Posted yesterday at 04:25 AM Posted yesterday at 04:25 AM 1 hour ago, danny_galaga said: Yes, once landed, you have to feed in some opposite rudder to keep it straight on taxi. For some reason I don't think to feed in opposite brake. Maybe because then I'll have TWO hot brakes 😄 Like I say, I'll totally leave the park brake alone for the next few flights to see what that does How does the park brake work? Blocking valve to hold pressure or a separate master cylinder like a Piper Cherokee? 1
onetrack Posted yesterday at 05:24 AM Posted yesterday at 05:24 AM (edited) You'd have to have handfuls of anti-seize applied, before any of it migrated to brake pads. A dab of nickel-based anti-seize is the cure to any corrosion/sticking problems. Edited yesterday at 05:25 AM by onetrack 1 1
BrendAn Posted yesterday at 05:29 AM Posted yesterday at 05:29 AM 4 minutes ago, onetrack said: You'd have to have handfuls of anti-seize applied, before any of it migrated to brake pads. A dab of nickel-based anti-seize is the cure to any corrosion/sticking problems. Skippy is just trolling for a new debate because I dropped out of the last one. 1 2
BrendAn Posted yesterday at 05:52 AM Posted yesterday at 05:52 AM been using antisieze on caliper pins for 40 years and i have never seen it leak onto the pads. 1 1
skippydiesel Posted yesterday at 05:52 AM Posted yesterday at 05:52 AM 20 minutes ago, BrendAn said: Skippy is just trolling for a new debate because I dropped out of the last one. BrendAn - Your just sour because you weren't up to the debate. Closed minds usually stay closed, no matter how hard you try 😈 2
skippydiesel Posted yesterday at 05:55 AM Posted yesterday at 05:55 AM Just now, BrendAn said: been using antisieze on caliper pins for 40 years and i have never seen it leak onto the pads. Your point being you have been indulging in a questionable practise & got away with it. So now preaching your belief to others. Why the vigorous response - all I did was introduce a word of caution.😈 1
BrendAn Posted yesterday at 06:04 AM Posted yesterday at 06:04 AM 11 minutes ago, skippydiesel said: BrendAn - Your just sour because you weren't up to the debate. Closed minds usually stay closed, no matter how hard you try 😈 What debate. I put up the facts I got from the experts. You put up crap from the voices in your head.🤣 1 1 1
BrendAn Posted yesterday at 06:05 AM Posted yesterday at 06:05 AM 10 minutes ago, skippydiesel said: Your point being you have been indulging in a questionable practise & got away with it. So now preaching your belief to others. Why the vigorous response - all I did was introduce a word of caution.😈 Where did you do your mechanical apprenticeship. 1
BrendAn Posted yesterday at 06:31 AM Posted yesterday at 06:31 AM 34 minutes ago, skippydiesel said: Your point being you have been indulging in a questionable practise & got away with it. So now preaching your belief to others. Why the vigorous response - all I did was introduce a word of caution.😈 Is that like when you sent me a DM advising me not to offer McKay heater hose to people then a couple of months later you were saying McKay hose was good quality 1
RossK Posted yesterday at 06:53 AM Posted yesterday at 06:53 AM Greasing Caliper pins is very common and good practice to stop them seizing. Bendix Brake Lube 2 3
danny_galaga Posted yesterday at 07:10 AM Author Posted yesterday at 07:10 AM 2 hours ago, Thruster88 said: How does the park brake work? Blocking valve to hold pressure or a separate master cylinder like a Piper Cherokee? It's a blocking valve. You turn it on and pump the brakes. Ages ago when building this kit I discovered it had been assembled incorrectly ( non symmetrical outlet fittings on the wrong sides) , I think at the kit factory. So all it did was act as an on/off switch for the brakes 😄. I swore black and blue I was just going to take the lever off and leave it in there, but everyone here convinced me to fix it. It was quite a big job getting the floor panel off again to do that. Maybe I introduced some crap in there when I took it out to fix. If my problem now is actually the park brake, this time I really will just leave it off and not use it. 2
Blueadventures Posted yesterday at 07:19 AM Posted yesterday at 07:19 AM 24 minutes ago, RossK said: Greasing Caliper pins is very common and good practice to stop them seizing. Bendix Brake Lube Absolutely agree, that's the tube I have an have used for years. Sort of expensive f you only want a bit for one or two jobs. 1 3
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