jetboy

Although the OP is 12 years ago I'll add to the discussion My 701 was built in 2003 and the engine I wanted to try was Diamond AE110R (ex Midwest Rotary ex Norton design) This engine never made it to production so I chose the Jabiru 2200. Other posibilities were Hirth 3701,, Konig MZ301i, Simonini Victor2, Rotax 618 or 582 or 912. Note that for my build of the 701 modifications are required to the rudder / tail attachments to use the 912S) There has been a 701 in NZ built with HKS, changed to Corvair, changed to J2200. I wrote the owner who said the Corvair was great power but too heavy and thirsty rendering it a 1 seater for any distance Another started with BMW, then Rotax 532, then EA81. I rode in the 532 version and it performed well. The 701 design started with 503 One has an EA81 with weights in the tail and reportedly didnt handle that well according to newsgroup questions from the owner Another has a geared VW which overheated but believed to be still flying on the rebuild One had a Simonini which didnt stay on long, believed to be 912 now, as are the rest of the 20 or so fleet. All the 2 strokes have a poor reputation in NZ the 582 being the best prospect with a 300hr TBO - most do well over 600 without trouble. Today we have some other choices My solid lifter 2200 has done 550 hrs now with new rings (a known issue with pre - 2006 builds) its doing OK if it gets to 1000 I should be happy. If not I have put a label on it DNR (ask a paramedic) as if anything major breaks there are not worth rebuild and they are onto Gen4 production now. I would not consider a used 2200. There is not enough track record on the new ones. D-Motor is my favourite prospect although there has been 1 failure around the head sealing. I dont do high hours so a 582 is still a good option. Heavy airplane is not happy airplane. The 701 doesnt need more power. Get a 750 or 801 for that role.

Jab7252, Its a useful project and I would probably use it in place of my failing constellation of GPS Currently I have to fallback to a Garmin90 because the last 3 GPS3 Pilots have all packed it in, the 90 display is similar to what you have and supplies situational awareness with distance and bearing to any selected waypoint. I carry a paper map but like to be able to give accurate position reports For day VFR, on a small screen mapping is not helpful - with the GPS3 I would turn off all the airspace, roads etc. so I could see where I was going..... My plan was to use a discarded smartphone (starting with Android 2.3 Gingerbread) but I havent been able to find a navigation app that is free / not trial /no ads that will do the job of the early 2 dimensional GPS style. I would attempt it myself but never seem to have a PC with enough power to install the emulator / ADK required. The reason I keep things free is there is no ongoing obligation to update (both from the developer and user perspective) and often apps that look like they will be suitable, are not so become a drain on time If you have a blog detailing how you go about this I'd be interested too. I can compile in Fortran77 but its hard to start into app development when the tools dont have clear instructions to get started Ralph

Dreamers should do their own research, however there are a few common misunderstandings about performance figures etc. For instance, Dynearo might get more from a Rotax 912 because they use a custom muffler All the Zenair line have airspeeds qouted as IAS and if you read the construction plans there is no external static pressure port..... gives better readings 5 - 10 kts USA planes often quoted in mph - sounds better than the kts version Takeoff / landing distance done at less than MAUW, without 50' obstacle clearance distance, grass or paved surface not quoted. these are all 'legitimate' sales talk

I've had a 2200 in my CH701 since 2003 with 550 hrs now the only thing that has needed attention is soft compressions which has been addressed by fitting new rings and honing the cylinders out to the revised spec. I have replaced exhaust valves as precaution they were OK on inspection. I replaced the flywheel bolts per RAANZ tech data as well. Many of the issues are design related and covered in AD (in NZ) or Jab bulletins such as AVDAL SR050 which was my problem. The engine suits my profile as its unlikely to wear out before me, theres also the overhaul life discussion going on and i'd be displeased if I had fitted a brand with a 12 year O/H life because at 550 hrs it would have to been pulled by now. luck of the draw I suppose, dont remember that being in the 'rules' when I changed from CASO19 to part 103...... There is lots of reading on this thread and other sites here - much of this wont apply to a late model gen3 engine though so take with grain of salt; Yahoo! Groups Jabiru Owners Group • Index page http://home.online.no/~michel/Flywheel/ Contrails ! Jabiru flywheel bolts JABIRU-ENGINE-400hours http://www.jabiruworkshop.com/ JABIRU 2200 JABIRU 3300 Engineering Insights and Overhaul, Photo Walkthrough.

There have been several knock-off radios branded as Icom and made to look authentic, these are the counterfeits you need to avoid Many manufacturers get their genuine items made somewhere cheaper, my observation is that the quality depends on whether the manufacturer controls the process When I bought my fist caculator in 1975 it was from Hewlett Packard but made in Singapore, I think HP built and ran the entire factory, it still works perfectly Bendix King radios have been made in Taiwan (or similar) for more than 30 years, still good radios I would go with Clear Prop too!

Jabiru draws around 15mA with the master off, thats .36 Amp/hour per day or around 1 A/hr every 3 days. With the standard 18 A/hr battery it will need either a trickle charge or a boost charge after a couple of weeks. Because I have no mains power at the hangar I use a small solar panel across the battery. The small ones are not capable of overcharging my 24 A/hr battery and are safe to clip on to the terminals and leave day & night. - sold at Jaycar for camping boating etc. they are 6 Watt. Larger panels will require a regulator. If I had mains power I'd be using a plug pack type trickle charger. The least trustworthy chargers are ones with fans for cooling, not only can they put out serious power they also heat up and if the fan gets blocked they will burn up themselves. AGM SLA really work best with a regulated supply, around 13.6 float, so the old chargers with the moving iron Ammeter and 6V / 12V switch are also a bit risky for overcharging.

Other than being Yellow, Full River is another Odyssey. The same models are also in Black and branded Genesis. They are all good Batteries, however last time i replaced mine I went with an industrial type of similar specs for a quarter the cost. All AGM batts are not tolerant of going below around 10V. If you can get to charge again, it should be OK. Normally I dont succeed with these

I did extensive tests on my 2200 and compaqred results from others at the time. Wrote the results up on the Yahoo group forums, attaching a copy here. The main thing which has changed is Jabiru switched to inductive HT leads although they might not be the same type which I recommend. Owners in the UK are getting Magnecore leads made to their requirements. In NZ / Oz we can buy the bosh ones at Supercheapautos. ~ Radio Noise Suppression.doc ~ Radio Noise Suppression.doc ~ Radio Noise Suppression.doc ~ Radio Noise Suppression.doc

Actually the problems you describe are not usually of the radio fault. I hate to say this because Microair in the first and second instance allways say its an installation problem... by second instance I mean they get your new radio back but cannot find fault with it so they want to return it at your cost. if you have the option, return to dealer and get something else, or reinstall the bulky A200. This is better for you than continuing with an unsupported product - notice the transponders have been out of stock for several years now....and I have one which our CAA has said needs software remediation and the factory says it doesnt and they wont supply any service info If you are going to keep the radio, then areas to look at - in order of most likely fix: 1/reduce the microphone gain adjustment inside the transmitter. If you dont know how to do this or measure it, you shouldnt. get help. Smaller avionics shops or radio hams are likely better experienced than the commercial outfits. 2/ antenna match. its a Jabiru, so you cant change this. You can put 2 or 3 ferrite beads from Jaycar over the coax cable in an attempt to let the transmitter see a better match. Wideband aero antennas are much better. If your squealy noise is worse at one end of the frequency range, antenna match could be the issue. 3/ the brand of headsets and the earthing (or isolation) of the socket outlets for the headsets. In most installations, its customary to have one common ground connection for everything, the other possible ground connections are insulated from contacting metal such as airframe. Not a problem for Jabiru, although there is much more radiation from the antenna getting into the mic circuits. If this is the problem, shielding or the lay of the cabling is more likely to fix than ferrites. Ralph

I dont have any problem reading the level on the dipstick however its not consistent with the sump level because the rod can pick up oil from the sides of the tube when being withdrawn for the reading. Particuarly after adding oil, get a false high reading. Its easier to look down the hole and see the level in relation to the lower end of the filling pipe.

The final for the ICA20 only delivers 1.5 Watts carrier power, 5 Watts is peak and often used for marketing purposes so if Q316 = 2SC1947 then that will be the correct one. Phil mentions the sort of test gear we normally use when checking these radios, and if it was something like a Microair or Xcom this stuff is essential to get it right - with the A8 / A20 fitting the correct device will be OK but take your time, unsolder the old wires with care and use good heat for short time refitting,.use good old multicore solder the toxic stuff with real lead in it the new RoHS stuff is not suitable. Best get someone who does this sort of work a lot. Best of luck Skippydiesel

Your photos show that it is the size of a 2SC1947 and the leads are the same, all 3 are insulated from the casing. this is unusual for most RF transistors in that case style dont have a collector lead insulated, so the outer casing is 'hot'. Icom used the 2SC1947 in most of their Amateur radios in the 70's and '80s and soldered the case to the chassis for heat sink, because the case is not connected to the other leads. It was used in IC-202, IC-502, IC-215, IC-245 and probably IC-211 models to name a few. click on the photo here Semiconductor: 2SC1947 (2SC 1947) - TRANSISTOR SILICON NPN / 35V / 1A / 4W / 175MHz... - UK (GBP) someone on here might be able to look at an IC-A20 to confirm, I tried searching the web so far no luck. Someone at Jaycar thought it was a Jfet but trust me - its not.

Its not a JFET so dont go asking the techs at icom for that. You could request a replacement final RF power transistor for the IC-A20 if you are sure that is what you removed. From what you describe so far it might be the 2SC1947 I described earlier, does the size match?

it might help if you post a picture. a common RF final transistor for airband AM - used in the Delcom 960 "clone" was 2SC1972 RF Transistors, ELECTRO BROADCAST RF SHOP Icoms in the VHF band often used 2SC1947 which is a metal can transistor Semiconductor: 2SC1947 (2SC 1947) - TRANSISTOR SILICON NPN / 35V / 1A / 4W / 175MHz... - UK (GBP) but you cant just put anything similar in, and it would depend how you "removed" the thing in the fist place, you might be able to just put it back?

just run it with 12V plugged in. If you want it as emergency backuo get a 12V "power bank" or AA cell holder with the right plug. if you must use battery pack, refurbish it or get the AA cell holder that clips in place and use rechargeable NiMh cells. they are a really good radio with good noise blanker and easy to operate. newer models not so.

Previously only used Gates, found it hardened and outer cracked extensively, found Dayco USA brand at BNT (trade suppliers) and this has held up perfectly. Dayco - Fuel Line Hose I only run Avgas, no oil so these hoses should have an easy life.

Wby, he has an early engine and its normal for some of them to be Stiff. I'd be more concerned about the heavy clunk when starting, though, as a reason to "do not fly". There a bulletin around 2008 called AVDAL SR050 which deals with tightness, another later deals with the doubling of the cylinder - piston clearances. My 2200 would frequently get 1 or 2 soft pull through cylinders which often clear after a couple of 1 hr flights. New rings and a hone to the revised clearances and fixing the base nuts issue is an improvement. I would not be sending an engine of this pedigree anywhere for major overhaul, there are so many "improvements" needed such as dowels for the crank etc. that a new engine is more cost effective.

For Charlie this is the NZ version of what youre looking at NZ Civil Aircraft: McNair Mynah ZK-LOI Home from Taumarunui To the OP, there are plenty of simple classic ultralight type machines around, just their owners have left them in a shed and moved on. 3 Pterodactyls and Mirage / Qiucksilver I believe within 10 miles me I never see them out. Thrusters and Bantams were the top choice for a while and still very available, the reality is they are great for local flying but such a hassle putting on the layers of clothing and dealing with reliability issues killed the romance of it for me, used to be that what you needed to have was "(a) an empty weight of 150kg or less; (b) a lifting surface area of 10 m2 or more; and © a wing loading of 10 kg per m2 or less at empty weight and which is designed to carry not more than two persons." This was the original regulation in NZ, replaced by part 103 which changed to gross weights and allowed the Transport Canada Advanced Ultralight specs

I was told that most of the aircraft was in paint, only the curved accent striping was applied as plastic I was told that the canopy was located near the start of the debris trail unless an alert comes from CAA or TAIC or SAA, its likely we wont hear anything for a year or so

Dont know if the 296 internal battery is the same system as my GPS3 / GPS3 pilot models but these exhibit same symptoms they have a small lithium battery for memory of setup and user waypoints The GPS3 had a standard Li batt, the GPS3pilot used a rechargeable type= hard to get I tried replacing with normal Li batts but they didnt last more than a few months I put a 5Volt supercapacitor in there instead of the rechargeable and added about 10k ohms resistor from + across to the battery supply so it keeps a top up. Its only to keep the setup alive when changing batteries, but its a lot of work to put the waypoints back in (by hand) so this fix seems to work, as long as the normal AA cells are present and correct.

Can you fly a Jabiru to Bankstown or Camden or Townsville at the moment, or is an engine failure still considered too risky? I would have thought RAA should make that the first priority. Perhaps another senate estimates committee will sort it. CASA extends limitations on Jabiru-powered aircraft | Australian Aviation

I used to own these and ran Castrol TTS then later a Motul 2 stroke air cooled oil. Commonly used by air cooled racing / trail bikes. These might be part or full synthetic, you should consider good storage properties too as the small roller bearings in the engine start pitting if stored dry for too long. The Rotax manual says SUPER 2-stroke oil (for high performance air cooled 2-cycle engines, API - TC , mixing ratio 1:50 (2%) They have the same spec for the 582. Some engines have the optional oil pump / tank fitted - use the same oil. I would stay with the 50:1 mix The main point is that you must not use a marine/outboard engine type of 2-stroke oil

poteroo you might like to comment if anything here was out of line Flightradar24.com - Live flight tracker! you can play back the last few days data : it seems to have been doing around 186 kts (groundspeed) and 4500' at the time mode S was lost, roughly overhead the debri field the day before peaked @ 200 kts gs in descent. I think it was a 200 hp installation.

the airliner got within a cat's whisker of being caught in a tailwind

I thought NGK plugs are prohibited for aircraft use (probably why Jabiru use them, along with the carbon leads to make the engines run quieter)