derekliston
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Everything posted by derekliston
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Welcome to the forum. I am sure that you will find it useful, you may also find it quite controversial at times! peoples opinions vary greatly but there is a wealth of knowledge which has helped me out a few times.
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I built my CH701 from a Zenith kit bought from the USA. I was, during the build process, a LAME looking after a fleet of 12 aircraft pretty much single handedly. If you are looking for a build log, my log is purely photographic, pretty much nothing written down. However, for two whole years I didn't touch this aeroplane because I was so frustrated with the plans and the difficulty in complying with good aeronautical practice. Bear in mind that I was a LAME with years of experience in the U.K. and Australia, so if I found it difficult, how would your ordinary non- aeronautical builder cope. Things as simple as edge clearances for rivets were sometimes difficult to achieve. There were absolutely no instructions regarding firewall forward nor instrument or radio installations and I have often wondered about how many kits are either a) sitting unfinished somewhere or b) not truly airworthy if you could actually view the internal structure. Having said all that, this aeroplane flies much more precisely and is 1000% more fun to fly than any Piper, Cessna or Aerospatiale product so if you can find a good home built you will not regret it but just be very, very cautious.
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Since the majority of factory built aircraft in this country are 30+ years old, or new and super expensive, I would say home built within a hundred or so hours on would be the way to go, but get a good LAME to give it THOROUGH inspection first!
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How a Round Engine works
derekliston replied to old man emu's topic in Student Pilot & Further Learning
One of the things I've always found strange about radial engines is that, although they all have a 'Master cylinder' it is not cylinder number 1, but may be number three for example. I have never known why this is. -
Registered with Airservices who told me all good but can't be used for separation purposes, so probably not a lot more use than just transponder except I suppose they know who I am?
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My Trig transponder that came with the Skyview package has ADSB out.
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Tell us about your first solo
derekliston replied to Admin's topic in Student Pilot & Further Learning
I would if I could remember. Too many years ago! -
New diode fitted. All now working as it should. I'll let you all know should that change. Once again, thanks for all the helpful advice.
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As I have previously said on this thread, it all functioned correctly for 40+ hrs before it malfunctioned. Thanks to the helpful comments I now know how to test a diode, which I did and proved the diode to be faulty (allows current flow in both directions) I have purchased from Jaycar a diode Pt No. 1N5408 which I have terminated, covered with heat shrink and tested to ensure it is working. I will fit it and try it this afternoon and let you all know what happens.
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Jaycar do not have a Diode 1N5048 but they did have 1N5408 which, on closer inspection of your photograph, appears to be the correct number so I will give that a try.
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This has been very interesting. I thank everyone for their input, I have certainly learned a bit, not the least being how to test a diode. I found the original diode and tested it this morning and it is definitely stuffed, ie I get a current reading in both directions. I will endeavour to purchase the suggested Jaycar part number diode this morning and see where I go from there. I will let you all know what the outcome is.
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That is worth a try so long as my local Jaycar has the requisite part. As I said previously, I am no electronic ace so I really don't know how one acquires a 'snubber' or what it comprises.
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Cable on left is battery to solenoid and so has 12volts, likewise I presume (haven't put a voltmeter on it) that the red end of diode will have 12volts on it. I have a master solenoid for all of the electrics but the starter solenoid has 12V permanently at the left terminal, direct battery feed to starter which is why I figure that if the diode breaks down the current bypasses the solenoid and hence with all switches off, starter continues to turn.
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Sent a pm to Ayecapt explaining solenoid pictures but for other interested parties this is the story. The diode was fitted purely for illustrative purposes and is now removed again. Diode is covered in heat shrink and the red end is the end of the diode with the line on it. Ayecapt's suggestion that the diode may have been wrongly fitted from the start may be correct, I am no electronic ace, but I would have thought that the problem would then have been there from the start.
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I'll be very interested in your results!
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Warwick Qld. I am a retired LAME and did 100% of the airframe, electrical, radio and painting and it was all Ok but I am no electronic wiz and this has me stumped, especially since it was working previously.
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I will do that, but can't until tomorrow and yes I do have a multimeter.
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Thanks for all suggestions. The point is that the diode was on the solenoid trouble free for 40+ hrs without a problem then the fault developed. Without a diode the solenoid functions well, that is how I have it at the moment, not ideal long term but for the moment it will do. What I don't understand now is why, even with a new diode fitted, the problem returned!
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Also remember my old air cooled VW Beetle. Who knows what any of the temperatures or pressures were on that. Didn't exactly have much instrumentation! But it worked.
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I must admit I don't worry too much about temperature differentials between cylinders so long as they are all within limits which, thanks to Skyview, I can keep a good eye on. I just remember all of the Cessna and Pipers that I used to fly didn't even have CHT or EGT gauges. Often wonder how efficient the cooling really was on those. I'll change over to W100 at my next oil change, so we will see what difference that makes. I have pretty much sealed all the gaps, might try the idea of the deflector plate behind the cooler if I can work out how to do it.
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2200 solid lifter and also still on running in oil W100. I don't have a problem with the hundred, it is how long I can safely go over it that is the question. Once our daytime temps get up into the 30s I'm concerned about climb temps.
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According to Jabiru manual max. Continuous oil temp is 100C. In cruise my oil temp is around 98C but climbing in Qld summer heat might be a problem. Manual says that it can go to 118C max but does not say how long it can safely stay there. Any ideas?
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Thanks to everyone for all the info. I don't think I will be changing over to PCV though. To horsefeathers, thanks for that but I don't think it would work on my engine with the oil cooler - muffler positioning but I will have a look.
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I am a retired LAME but I confess I have no idea what a PCV system is, would you mind elucidating? By the way, I have the large plenum chambers fitted, my EGTs and CHTs are good, only problem in Qld Summer is oil temp!
