M61A1

Yep....The Suzuki G engines are the same as used on their outboards which have similar loads to aircraft engines. They will happily run at high power settings all day and for a long time.

I've never said you can only do one thing or the other, both at the extremes. There is middle ground here, There are other options between full lockdown and do nothing. I did read an article just the other day where Sweden's Chief medical person said the only thing he would have done differently would have been to more to protect the vulnerable, but Sweden's fatalities have started to drop off, which apparently indicates they have reached a point where enough people have had it to have reached some form of resistance. All we have done is the medical equivalent of hiding under the bed. It won't go away, and we have to come out sometime.

I think the point is more about the response to the disease rather than the disease itself. Never before have we seen such a massive response to a disease that's killing relatively few people. I doubt we will really know who had the best response for some time, and it's all rather pointless arguing over who did the right thing until it's all over. While people are praising the Australian response, they can't keep this up forever, or even for much longer. Then what?

No point really....Power peaks at 3600 rpm and torque peaks at 1600 and is flat until around 2500. Good propeller RPM.

Looking at the power graphs for that engine, you could probably get away with direct drive. Peak power is just above 3000 rpm and peak torque is around 2500.

It doesn't seem to be widely known, but a lot of gyro guys run Subaru EJ22s with Rotax redrives and use the factory ECU and apparently have little problem. They are a little on the heavy side, but make good power and are quite cheap. They certainly make the extra few kilos Rotax lack look very expensive.

These articles I found very useful too.... https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/bingcv.htm https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/bingcv-2.htm

Nikasil plating can be done, and has been available for some years. Probably still cheaper than a genuine Rotax cylinder. https://www.electrosil.com.au/news3.htm

It sounds like either the float level is too high, a common problem due to crappy floats or the starting carburettor may be leaking or not fully closing. A quick check for float level is to ensure the float bowl is full using your boost pump. turn it off and quickly remove the float bowl (quickly, because as you lower it away fuel will flow as the floats come off the needle), as a rough guide the fuel level should be about 1/2 inch from the top of the bowl. Normally they won't cold start unless the throttle is fully closed. The link below gives a good description of the starting carb. Apologies if you are already familiar with it. https://electricmotorglider.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/CV-Carb-Part-2-web.pdf

In the SB the specifically refer to floats with part number 361184 marked on them.

https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/rotax-blog/item/34-912-914-float-inspection

No, I’m talking about the process of using a low pressure source to lower the float bowl pressure to lean the mixture. The HACman type is similar to what they refer to as the Back-Suction-Type in the description in the link below: https://www.flight-mechanic.com/float-type-carburetors-mixture-control-system/

From what I’ve read many float type aircraft carbs use a virtually identical system, it’s just built into to carb.

Given that we are talking about very minor variations in pressure, I doubt that it's much of an issue.

It comes down to proper design. Yes you will wear out a Chevy if you rev it at 7000 all day because the bearing sizes and piston speeds are all very high at those revs. engines designed to rev have smaller journals to give less bearing speed and shorter strokes to give less piston speed. I've had motorcycles that rev at 14000 rpm to maintain highway speed and will happily do it for hours. To make a certain amount of power you need to burn a certain amount of fuel regardless of engine size or revs, and in doing so will generate the same amount of heat. If you can lose 160hp worth of heat from an air cooled Lycoming, you can lose it from a Subaru with liquid cooling.

Part of that reason is also that in order to have any sort of market they have to negotiate a truckload of certification processes including STCs if they want people to install them in existing aircraft, not to mention that aviation is full of old shellbacks who are wary of anything new. It's kind of a self fulfilling prophecy when they come out with "it'll never work".

I agree about state bullsh1t, but, the concept is that a licence is a document that means that you have been shown to meet a minimum standard of competence. I don't have a problem with this for RPT Some of the problem is that in some of these countries, you can purchase the document rather than earn it by demonstrating your competence, and I get the impression here in Oz that in many industries your are demonstrating compliance rather than competence.

Our work oil samples go to Intertek, I don't know how much they cost, but the analysis goes way further. They can tell us what type of ferrous material it is to determine whether its a gear, bearing or seal. We have a table with all the different compositions of metal in the subject component. Particles get sent away for analysis as well.

Are you sure the R/H one is a Warp Drive? I've not seen one like that. I've only ever seen these types.... https://warpdriveinc.com/propeller-components/

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again...You are risking you life when you fly with any of these third word airlines.

Well, if darkness is the state of being dark....and someone says “Add lightness.... Isn’t that exactly what you wanted to do?

How can you get lightness without lights?

https://www.pilotcommunications.com.au/product-category/headset-spares/main-leads/

Don’t forget the bend in the front left pipe to allow oil filter removal

They are bright, but only visible from the front. One may argue that's all you need to be to prevent a collision, but strobes are visible from most angles and work great around twilight. I imagine it all depends on the flying you do. Due to military airspace we often flight at twilight as it's the only time on week days they are having a short break. I have found the strobes on my friend's aircraft quite helpful to find him quickly without cluttering radio airwaves, so much so I am considering fitting a pair or at least one on my vertical stab.