M61A1

Green coolant is your conventional coolant (Ethylene Glycol base) and is the most common type of coolant found. Red coolant is typically has a base of Organic Acid Technology which has a different chemical makeup of green coolant and is designed to be suitable for aluminium radiators. Red coolant is often silicate and phosphate free for use in later Japanese and Euro vehicles. Blue coolant is usually an Organic Acid Technology base and what makes it different from red coolant is that they’re normally Borate free which is a requirement for modern day Japanese vehicles that are supplied with blue coolant from factory. Yellow or Orange coolants are the latest in technology and are normally a universal product. Some universal coolants will allow top up mixing to a certain percentage of the overall capacity of the cooling system, so it’s important to keep this in mind when topping up. Can I mix different coolants? Provided that the coolants which you are using have identical chemical makeup (for example, if two coolants are based on Ethylene Glycol), then it is normally safe for you to mix them together. If you aren’t certain on which base the current coolant that you have in your car uses, there are universal mixes available. If you don’t have access to a coolant then water may be used in place of it. However, it’s very important to keep in mind that water’s boiling point is significantly lower than a coolant’s and therefore, is less effective. Furthermore, coolants have rust-resistant properties whereas water does not.

Nice pic...Looks very unforgiving. I was looking at a trip to Bourketown which is up in the gulf and I am in South East Queensland (not sure if you are familiar with the geography), so I'm not even leaving the state. At 90kts it's almost 10 hours of flight time and I need at least two fuel stops. It would be longer than that in reality because any airport or town I can get fuel at is not on the direct route. Most of the terrain is quite forgiving though, with a safe forced landing being possible for almost all of it.

No-one ejected from the one I saw. The usual loft bombing procedure was to initiate a 4G pullup and release the laser guided weapon using the computer. They would then turn and dive under power while the laser maintained the target. The one I have pics of was just pulling up when they impacted. The only significant sized parts were the inboard wing sections and the wing carry through box and they weren't in one piece either. That would have been mid to late eighties.

I have some photos of the left over bits of an F111 that crashed, I can't remember whether it was Guyra or Tenterfield, but there are a couple big bits and an awful lot of tiny pieces. It hit dirt at a shallow angle not steel and concrete straight on.

The learning the basics about flight should tell you a lot and be put into practice physically when learning to fly, when you learn to "feel" what is going on. The POH can tell you about the intricacies of different aircraft as well having a good look at the configuration and which way the prop turns (if it has one). If you aren't comfortable, get help....no issue.

They seemed to work when I saw it happen on an Auster......

The Drifter probably isn't a good example for your point. It has significant attitude changes with power for he same reasons. Why do you need to be trained for it? it should be quite obvious before you plonk your arxe in the cockpit. If it's not at that stage it should be after flying for 10 minutes.

That was pretty much the point....The radio becomes almost useless when the say they are somewhere the aren't.

Some of us like the fact that deionised or demin water has no crap in it which means it tastes good to us. A bit like good rainwater....the less that's in it , the better it tastes. Your point is subjective.

That theory goes out the window when you find others reporting downwind and they're 3 miles out from the field or reporting base and 3 miles out or more but flying a LSA rather than a 747. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to be isolated occurrences. Someone is teaching people this stuff.

I should also have mentioned that Ashdown Ingram have a nice selection of switches and lights including leds. Also as you probably already know, polarity is important if using leds

Sir Joseph Lucas.....Prince of Darkness.....

I use an led. It works fine. I chose a yellow one because generally yellow is for a "caution".

It's not uncommon here to have kangaroo hazards and such on aerodromes. https://www.crc.id.au/xplane/charts/ERSA-2020-FEB-27/Moree%20(YMOR)%20FAC.pdf https://www.crc.id.au/xplane/charts/ERSA-2020-FEB-27/Caboolture%20(YCAB)%20FAC.pdf https://www.crc.id.au/xplane/charts/ERSA-2020-FEB-27/Dalby%20(YDAY)%20FAC.pdf https://www.crc.id.au/xplane/charts/ERSA-2020-FEB-27/Millmerran%20(YMMN)%20FAC.pdf https://www.crc.id.au/xplane/charts/ERSA-2020-FEB-27/Pittsworth%20(YPWH)%20FAC.pdf

Probably a 200l tank that fills the whole rear cargo area....

The one in the pic looks like a retainer for a oil cap or pip pin as used on many aircraft. If you zoom in on this image you will see at least four of them... https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/58/ILA_2018%2C_Sch%C3%B6nefeld_%281X7A5375%29.jpg Looking at the swages, one would have to be a special type of genius to expect it to hold the landing gear in case of bungee failure. Those ones need proper swages.

The point being that often homebuilt aircraft get more attention to detail than factory built ones. Factory built get the bare minimum required to meet spec and get them out the door. The low paid workers often get trained on one job without really understanding it's importance. I would like to think that homebuilders generally understand the importance of every bit they assemble or manufacture. I have seen exceptions to this, but it is usually quite clear with a brief inspection.

Every factory built aircraft is built by the lowest paid workers They can get with the least amount of training necessary. with a kit plane often a quick look will tell you about the builder and quality of work I bought a fixer upper. You could see the original build quality was very good, but a large repair was very dodgy. I replaced the whole repair section and proof loaded it anyway.

Thanks. Every time I see an F4U on the cover of Classic Wings I buy a copy, even better if it has a resto article. I’ve had about 4 or 5 foamy Corsair RC models. I started building a standoff scale one for 95:55 some years ago but it hasn’t got far and I’ve rebuilt 4 other aircraft in the meanwhile.

I'm assuming he's kept the "how to land an airplane" book for in flight reading?

Yep...A flying workmate described the RV6 as twitchy and he hated it. I had a fly of one and thought it it was beautifully responsive and loved it.

It wasn't on your list but the Bushcat may meet your requirements. Similar construction to the Skyranger, but available in tricycle or taildragger and has good STOL capability with a solid 90 kt cruise.

By Australian standards that makes the alps "right there".....130km is nothing. some people here have neighbours further away. I have been flying a Zenith 601HD. It's a low wing taildragger, all metal and a similar wing to the Savannah and 701 but no struts. It has a big bubble canopy with great visibility, but I think lacks the safety of the high wing if you flip it, although that's less likely to flip without nose gear. It's a little faster than the Sav and 701, but max cruise still tops out around 100kts (80 hp) because of the thick wing. It's MTOW is 544kg, with an empty weight of around 300kgso if you are limited to 450 it pretty much becomes a single seater.

I wouldn't be surprised if a condition report was requested.

Or scotch thistle....