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rankamateur

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Everything posted by rankamateur

  1. If you have a link for it, that might help a rag and tube pilot on a budget out. I think at half price I will still be walking.
  2. Sorry for being a bit abrupt Geoff. Maybe I should have posted it in a GA forum.
  3. I may have quickly mis-read, I thought 100kg was the tare of the rider.
  4. I don't care, I am in the market for mower blades! Just trying to help somebody who doesn't like walking, and apparently has plenty of cash.
  5. https://www.allmowerspares.com.au/boost-bike-electric-bike-shock-folding.html Saw this while I was looking for mower blades. Just thought it might interest some of you tourers out here where there are no taxis.
  6. He has boxes of everything over there. Only way to find out is ask him!
  7. Really good picture at the top of this page http://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/brands/pop/rivets/types/multi-grip-rivets Look at the picture up the top with the four different thicknesses gripped.
  8. They are next to useless. Pull a couple and you will see what I mean. They pull up like macaroni noodles. Make sure and get "multi-grip" rivets next time.
  9. I did get short of countersunk rivets and found that by drilling 5/32" through a block of steel then drilling part way through with a larger drill I had a die to hammer regular rivets into with a dolly to make them counter sunk for the last few. They did need a rub around the edges on the grinder to take the frilly bits off.
  10. Does two pack primer handle a long period before applying the top coat? I thought it had to go on right before the top coats.
  11. Are you going to get some primer on those longerons so you have some under the heads of you rivets?
  12. Measure the shaft of a small screwdriver! if you can find ones that have 1/8" and 5/32" shafts get them on the grinder and grind the tip down to a gentle taper. No real need to make a sharp point. When you are using them aligning sheets to the holes in the frames take care not to tear at the holes in the sheet. Work along the frames so any one hole doesn't have to cop all the load.
  13. See post #116
  14. Two of each is three times better , working either side of the offending cleco until they are click out to full extension.
  15. You seem to be having more than average trouble understanding the manual. The manual has copped a lot of criticism but it is better than that. I will give you two bits of advice. Read the manual for the next section you expect to be building the night before you start, you will digest it before you need it that way. The other thing is that they tend to have the explanation on one page BUT the picture or diagram on the facing page usually is the diagram for the page before. So when you are looking for clarification from a diagram, turn the page and you will likely find what you need.
  16. There seems to be a fairly active push for girls to become commercial pilots, perhaps once they filter through the system and wander off into retirement we will see a lift in lady recreational pilot numbers.
  17. Thought hammering was a no-no on airframes. Remember the rivet is only supported by a 16 thou sheet and perhaps a 20 thou rib(16 thou on ailerons) when you are tapping with your punch.
  18. They were only $25 each at Supercheap when I bought my first two, annoyed me that I didn't get a couple more. They were only $18 each when I went back, not sure how cheap they get down to, any less they may as well give them away.
  19. What is that for Denice's 12V coffee maker?
  20. Tanami NSW agent is conveniently located at Burpengary in Queensland. That makes sense.
  21. Try cutting the steel part off the back of the rivet with pinchers before drilling so the drill doesn't run off the steel. It isn't always possible but makes a lot better job where you can.
  22. Big in Europe too where they are trying to keep to 450Kg MTOW. It takes hours and needs on going maintenance to keep it looking good. Every dent shows up on the polished surface too, got to really admire a builder of a polished airframe, great care all the way through the build.
  23. Yes. Note they have shorter inner lonerons as well near the front end of the rear fuselage section where the seat backs start. At this point, from memory you end up trying to line up about four layers. Don't drill holes to make them fit, just keep wriggling the holes with a 1/8" mandrel in the hole either side of the cleco until they are happy.
  24. Make sure when you get to riveting, Start in the middle of each piece and rivet towards the outside. Think "smoothing out the wrinkles". If you go the other way you will carry tension into the middle and there will be nowhere for it to go.
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