Lyndon Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 No worries. Makes sense. Main concern is its clecoed up and some holes that I'm not using yet do over lap a bit. It's one of the very few bits that once are are joined you really can't get it wrong. I'm presuming they just weren't stamped quite perfect. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 But I still had the same issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 I'm mounting the four plates that reinforces the cowling mounts. The manual is just mumbo jumbo. I use the black rivets but where and why. Then it says use soft rivets but does not make sense where or why. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick morawski Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I'm pretty sure it doesn't say to use the black rivets (you found them huh???) It uses A5 (your normal bigger rivet) where the holes line up with the firewall, and soft squeezed rivets at the front in the smaller holes. you may not even need the small rivets, they are just to hold the corners down because of the curve of the firewall. What's not in the manual is that you can put the plates on the outside if you are putting the cowl inside, and you put the plates inside if you are having the cowl mounted outside. If you are having trouble now you are really going to cry when putting on the cowl, inside or outside??? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 Would make sense to put it on the outside surely for air flow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick morawski Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Would make sense to put it on the outside surely for air flow You're not building an RV here, dont worry too much about airflow. Most builders put it (the cowl) on the outside for ease of removing cowl to check the motor. Factory ones come with the cowl inside and the manual says put it inside. You figure whats best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 I realize this but why would one not put it on the outside. It just makes common sense like roofing tiles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 Ok I sorted the plates. Now I will look into where the cowel should be . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I realize this but why would one not put it on the outside. Because it is really made to fit on the inside and they a bit of a bitch to put on outside where they don't look like they are inside out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 Well if it's designed to be inside then that's what it will be . Thanks Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Putting the plates on the inside is a bit the same because the skins on the front fuselage then have to stretch over them where they weren't designed for. Next time they design a plane they do it the right way in the first place now that the VNE is 124kts. Well if it's designed to be inside then that's what it will be .Thanks Lyndon Good for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 So the plates are on the outside. Then I have a nice edge inside for the cowling makes sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Well if it's designed to be inside then that's what it will be .Thanks Lyndon But why would go on the inside when many Savannah builders and owners, with a collective wealth of experience, all state it is better on the outside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 I'm just thinking the engineering staff who designed this are a lot smarter than me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 Wing distance ????. 728 plus or minus 1mm. Measure from where. The front mount has two lugs and guessing the wing locates in the center. Distance between the front and rear lug. Or center of both. I only want to drill these once. Yep I want the wing to fit first time. Advice ???? Thanks Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 Or it seems this can't be wrong. ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 There are innumerable ways to be wrong and only one way is right. Do you guys use templates? Let me know if it's a silly question. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 I'm using the factory template. Happy with the diagonal on top. But the legs look to long and are not parallel with the row of rivets. By the manual at this stage it looks only the top is riveted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick morawski Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Wing distance ????. 728 plus or minus 1mm. Measure from where. The front mount has two lugs and guessing the wing locates in the center. Distance between the front and rear lug. Or center of both. I only want to drill these once. Yep I want the wing to fit first time. Advice ????Thanks Lyndon Nobody knows where that distance is measured. Dont worry, if you mounted the frame up with the jig in the correct holes then it will fit. The important bit is the diagonals on top must be equal before drilling. If the vertical legs are long and foul with the extrusion from the cabin side its ok to trim enough to fit and no more. Its harder to get the first hole in the vertical leg because you have the jig clecoed on but you will get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 Makes perfect sense. Thanks Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 Taking a break from construction and doing what I really like. My thoughts on the Rotax 912 . First I wish the Japanese built one but anyway we will have to put up with Austrian engines for now. 2010 or 2011 not quite sure. 1740 hrs and it's mine. Pulled it apart and first impressions are it's made so simple and easy to work on. Not all orings seal perfectly which is normal for a European engine thus it's not as oil tight as is should be. Cooling system has quite a few leaks. Yep it's not Japanese. Inside the cooling system is perfect. Nil corrosion. Inside the engine is also very good. No sludge but at oil change intervals and how it's used I would expect better. The lifters are worn. I blame the oil for this. The oil rings are badly carboned up as is the heads and piston crowns. Bore pistons rockers valve seats guides etc show virtually no wear at all. The cam is fine upon initial inspection and will go around again. The front reduction unit is also perfect. Inlet valves are perfect and the exhaust have some marking but are now fine after a very light lap. Overall if this engine had better oil it would be only just run in at these hrs. The carbs also look perfect albeit very dirty etc. The oil pump is also like new. So lifters. Valve stem seals. Maybe a light home. Valves lapped. Some oil control rings new gaskets and seals and would be very disappointed if it didn't do those hrs again. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Lyndon, is that the 80 hp or the 100 hp 912? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted December 14, 2015 Author Share Posted December 14, 2015 100 hp engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 They are nikasil bores so be careful honing them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 I see you are doing the cabin frame. Be very careful with that you can really stuff it up if you do not measure diagonally across it and get it within 1 mm or less otherwise you will be putting addon trim tabs on a aileron to stop the roll. Lots of guys have stuffed this part up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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