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Marty d's CH-701 build log


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Thanks Mark.

 

Yes those type are bloody expensive.  I think the other sort will work ok - hoping so anyway!

 

In other news my 912 Engine Installation DVD's from HomebuiltHelp turned up today, just about to settle down with a Jagermeister and have a look.

 

 

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Marty Glassing is easy..just messy. Must get all the air out of the weave thats all so use the ribbed rollers. You probably need to cut some 10mm ply and cut out to match the curves on the outside the

Step one is to cut your mat to fit the inside of the mould - lay the pieces out so you know whit bits fit which curves. Don't try to do the whole cowl with one big piece of mat. After applying ha

It's been a while...   Fortunately @wideblueyonder just lent me some cowl moulds, so this is inspiring me to get back into it.   I bolted the engine back on temporarily to test fit

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I just fitted the top dash deck (yanks call it the boot cowl)... I am amazed everything actually fits seeing I made pretty much every skin like you have

 

Yep, I've wondered off and on what that part was called, and surely there must be another word or phrase?

 

 

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I just fitted the top dash deck (yanks call it the boot cowl)... I am amazed everything actually fits seeing I made pretty much every skin like you have

 

Well done - that was one of the pieces I had to make twice, stuffed up the first one with that Y-cut where the cabin frame goes through it.

 

"Dash deck" is a good description!

 

 

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Not a Y as such in mine. I am tossing up whether to put in the cabin heater section though in the top deck. I havent made it yet better decide soon as it has to be alodined yet. Danny is about to start the cabin frame. What drawings did you have for yours Marty?...was it measurements or angles on the drawings?. We have mine which is fine and not bent but is rusted a fair bit so I need another oe. Dannys is all bent as his aircraft was picked up by a willy willy and dumped upside down. We have the main top bar and the front spar holders bent and the tube slotted just have to make the main legs of it. Going to weld a couple of handles on it as well to make it easier to get in and out of

 

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I'll scan the drawing for you Mark, but as I recall it wasn't a lot of help.  Best thing you can do is bend some cardboard around it between instrument panel and firewall, cut it to size so it all fits nicely then use that as a template for the aluminium.

 

After watching part of the HomebuiltHelp DVD I realised I'd made the oil tank bracket wrong (hard to tell from the plans), so drilled the rivets out and re-positioned it tonight.  Yesterday I widened the holes in the mount using a holesaw with a wooden block pressed into the cups to keep it centred.  Worked ok.  Bolted the mount in place, feels fairly solid.  (As it will need to be with 100 horses tugging on it!)

 

Talking of the dash deck, I un-clecoed that to work on the bolts, it's a lot easier with it out of the way!

 

Oh, I discovered some useful installation PDF's on the Zenith site.   Links below if you're interested.  The end of no.7 mentions "final installation in part 9" but I can't seem to find any more.

 

http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/data/r912s-ring-1a.pdf 

http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/data/r912s-ring-1b.pdf

http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/data/r912s-ring-1c.pdf 

http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/data/r912s-ring-2.pdf  

http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/data/r912s-ring-3.pdf   

http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/data/r912s-ring-4.pdf  

http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/data/r912s-ring-5.pdf  

http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/data/r912s-ring-6.pdf  

http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/data/r912s-ring-7.pdf 

 

 

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Not a Y as such in mine. I am tossing up whether to put in the cabin heater section though in the top deck. I havent made it yet better decide soon as it has to be alodined yet. Danny is about to start the cabin frame. What drawings did you have for yours Marty?...was it measurements or angles on the drawings?. We have mine which is fine and not bent but is rusted a fair bit so I need another oe. Dannys is all bent as his aircraft was picked up by a willy willy and dumped upside down. We have the main top bar and the front spar holders bent and the tube slotted just have to make the main legs of it. Going to weld a couple of handles on it as well to make it easier to get in and out of

 

[ATTACH]40903[/ATTACH]

 

Oops, I just re-read your post and realised you're talking about the cabin frame, not the dash deck.

 

Yep will send you a scan from the 701 plans.  Double check the sizes as it's not exactly the same aircraft!

 

Actually not even sure if the cabin frame is the same for the Sav given that the 701's wings taper in at the roots and yours don't.

 

 

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Hi Marty

 

yes I got it thanks. I will compare to the sav one and see how different it is.  Been out of touch this past 24 hrs..was in hospital last night..all good looks like sever reflux issue not the ticker. Got back at 9.30 this morning and had to head down to a mates place to help him with is Sav kit. Danny and I had a tofix a few issues he made then fitted his cabin frame for him so its accurate so now he can continue on

 

 

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Had to take the elevator off today in order to file down the bracket stiffener, I couldn't get the 32-35 degrees "up" required as the elevator mounting extrusion was hitting it.

 

While it was off I remembered someone (JG perhaps?) saying that over time the rivets can loosen on the central elevator mount, so I took the opportunity to replace 4 of the rivets with AN bolts.

 

Before (first 2) and after (2nd 2) photos attached.

 

The top and bottom bolts actually go through the HT upper and lower L angles too, so should provide extra strength.

 

Getting the elevator back on was a pain, especially the washer that goes between the mounting points.  Finally got a clue and suspended the washer on a piece of electrical tape until I could get the bolt through.

 

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Noseleg mod:

 

Just finished fabricating the "rubber puck" alternative to the bungee cord.

 

This method is available as a kit for the 750 model, but not yet for the 701, so had to design it myself based on drawings.

 

It's a fair bit heavier than the original method, but has a lot of good reviews from those who've changed to it.  Steering is apparently a lot lighter and the weak part of the system - the bungee - is taken out.

 

I bought my bungee when I started building around 10 years ago, and it feels really hard to me, so I probably would have had to replace it anyway.

 

Weights of the new system:

 

2" ID split shaft collars:    331g each.  One can be cut off after installation so might do that.

 

New extended brackets and shims:    140g total

 

10 rubber rings:      859g

 

9 aluminium rings:    54g

 

Main stop bracket:     162g

 

Total:   1.546kg with one collar, 1.877kg with 2.

 

This compares to less than 200g (plus another 100 or so for the steel pipe bungee stop and the doublers).

 

Instruments:

 

In other news, I bought a set of Savannah instruments (new from a kit) along with the wiring harness.  Will start planning my panel soon (standard Cessna 172-type layout, or as close as I can get to it.)

 

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Marty,

 

Do you have any plans for the rubber puck replacement system?

 

Hi,

 

I've got a bit of paper which shows the bits - no sizes or anything.  I'll scan it and upload soon.

 

 

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Got the new nose suspension installed last week.  It feels really tight but won't really know if it's right until there's some weight on the front.

 

Today I hooked up the flaperon torque tube to the mixer.  Stuffed up the initial cut of the threaded rod - measured it at full flaps down instead of flaps up, and obviously it was shorter than I needed.  Luckily I had enough rod left to do it properly.  I've put oversized washers on all rod end fittings where there's any chance of the connection failing if the rod end bearing does - may be overkill but better safe than sorry I guess.

 

Below are a couple of photos - the first with no flap, the second with full flap.  I've made up the upper rods (mixer to flaperon) with the quick-disconnect fittings, but can't fit those until I get the wings hooked up.

 

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30 degrees today, which is about 11 more than my ideal.  It's warm enough thanks!

 

Another 6-8 degrees would be nice, won't need a jacket then.

 

 

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