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M61A1

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Everything posted by M61A1

  1. Use two clamps...One shaped to fit the square section and one in the size of the hose, attached to each other.. Common practice. Drilling holes never comes into it.
  2. Agree....Get rid of the zip ties altogether and use some P clamps. It would make that look way more professional and last for years (and safer). If you get the correct size, they could also be shaped to fit the square section. Reuseable too.
  3. I've been using it for about 450hors and two and a half years without any problems.
  4. Have you looked at adjusting the mic gain on the lightspeed headset?
  5. It's just what Rotax specify....I work on a lot of Euro stuff and every manufacturer of every different component has their own specification for everything from threadlockers to paints and primers. So one aircraft has a heap of different products....something special for most different components, even though it will be the same colour the brand and spec of the paint is different. Sealants that do the same thing are different, and adhesives which do the same thing are different. It drives you insane have a consumables locker full of stuff that does the same things, but you aren't approved to swap them around.
  6. Good old Turco or Ardrox strippers Work well. They have become my go to method. Best done in batches..one small part at a time becomes annoying.
  7. More P-40 flying..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJZ5x-zUx28
  8. I reckon that big wide track undercarriage might have something to do with that.
  9. This is the sort of damage I found after stripping back the conduit which had no visible damage. Very similar symptoms....Working just fine the wouldn't start one day. No spark. Changed modules....still no spark.
  10. That's 1 ohm (resistance) one other check also would be to put the meter on one of the cables at a time and the the other meter probe on the engine. That will tell you if they are shorted to the cases.
  11. By "vey low" I mean less than 1 ohm. Also, it changed when wriggling the cables.
  12. I'd lay money that it's got more to do with the lack of low level training in the syllabus. From what I've seen a lot of the low level stall/spins are after an event like an engine fail and being very uncomfortable manoeuvring close to the ground, make serious mistakes. I may be wrong, as I don't know what other instructors teach these days, but the ones I use insist on competency with slow flight, stalls and recovery, and such.
  13. Do a resistance check on the stator, the two wires that go to the ignition units. I had a similar issue a while back. The flywheel/rotor had bee removed and the stator inspected IAW the SB with no visible damage noted some time prior. I did all the things you have done and found nothing....until the resistance check, which was very low. I removed the flywheel/rotor and there was no obvious damage, but them I removed the sheath from the two wires to find that both of them were extremely munted up. Once separated the resistance check was normal. After being quoted a ridiculous price for a new stator, I removed the old one and de-soldered the two damaged wires and soldered in nice new ones with high temp silicone insulation complete with good quality heatshrink and fresh wire braid. Haven't had a problem with it since.
  14. I suggest having a read of the POH. Under "EMERGENCIES". You will find a procedure for unintentional spinning there.
  15. Well, if you look on the bright side....If anything goes wrong they are the only casualty. It makes absolutely no difference to the rest of us. If that's what they want to do, let them go.
  16. 🤣🤣 🤣🤣🤣 Well at least someone at the gliding club has a sense of humour
  17. R22s also have a well designed fan forced air cooling system and is unlikely to experience high power followed by shock cooling as they are generally at a high power setting the whole time the machine is airborne, very much unlike the average Lyc powered glider tug that gets many high power then back to zero cycles in a day then self destructs in less than a thousand hours.
  18. Yes, there's a reason most vehicle manufacturers put the fuel pump in the tank.
  19. That one was a Subaru. One also has to consider whether the engine failed or the installation caused a stoppage.
  20. I had that experience...Took me a while to diagnose because it was intermittent and difficult to reproduce the fault on the ground.
  21. Well, If it's your aircraft, do what you like. Just make sure you document that. You might get away with skipping torque checks (not with a wood prop), but checking and lubricating hinges and pivots, general deterioration and oil changes need close inspection if they've not had much use. There is nothing worse for a machine than infrequent use. You might also notice that oil/engine manufacturers will specify so many hours or months. Oil oxidises and loses some of it's properties.
  22. If you've only flown a few hours it probably needs a thorough inspection anyway. The less it's flown, generally the more there is that is likely to be wrong with it. The bare minimum is that which is spelled out in the engine and airframe manual. Generally be more thorough if you value your life.
  23. Actually, their track record is pretty good....I'm pretty sure virtually every A series crash investigation I've read about involved pilots flying a perfectly good aircraft into the ground because they didn't know what they were doing.
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