rankamateur

I also found if you could hold the squeeze in one hand it was a lot easier to get a straight rivet. Just because the tool has two handles sure doesn't mean it takes two hands to drive it. On a warm day those soft little rivets nearly squeeze themselves.

I found it a lot easier to get a good result before I had to wear glasses, now it is a much greater battle.

Only 5 posts from top 5 in Notable Members too.

So what did become of Dazza? we used to hear so much from him on here.

I noticed a bank of brushes on the disabled engine, and now a bank of slip rings on the underside of the spinner backing plate. Having a Airmaster constant speed prop, I just accepted that it was electrically controlled pitch.

Did you uses stainless rivets on the floor of the cabin on each side near the fold in the sidewall?

Mine came from the factory with 544kg on the plate but the modification already done, so I only have to make a note in the maintenance log. For the Savannah just suck it up and drill the holes, rivet in the two little plates, there are no other modifications required, and make an entry in you maintenance book and you are upgraded to 600kg legally.

Inspired by a VW beetle by any chance?

Well stealing the cd from ICP isn't an option because since the Classic got away on them and morphed ever so slightly into the Land Africa they are a lot more careful about things like that.

There is one in a foxbat out at Alpha, haven't heard anything bad about it. If you are having an electronic dash the extra cost is less of a problem. The rotax instruments were $3500 when I looked into it and that would nearly have made a 914 cheaper at that time.

Did it fit in the supplied ring mount or did you have to come up with a different mount? How much will you need to butcher the cowling?

At Bundaberg airshow a few years back we fitted a 6' 9" bloke into one of Reg's Savannahs and he had the same amount of head room as I had in the same plane at 6' 3", so it really comes down to find one and try the fit for yourself.

I Spin Welded the whole air frame for my first build ( When I was 9 years old), The skins were riveted on with Spin Weld rivets too. There was also a helicopter kit available at the same time as well. Don't worry about watching the video but the tool she is holding is the same one kids were using in the 70's to build airframes. Be completely out of the question these days due to safety concerns I am sure. Wouldn't want any little kiddies developing an interest in building things that fly, would we?

The tool is the same as the one used at Aerokits, handles may be a little shorter on this one though, may even make it more useful in tight spaces unless the hand is not strong enough to apply the squeeze. Oetiker 14100387 Side Jaw Compound Action 1099 Clamp Crimper Pincers Pliers Tool | eBay These ones are even better if you have weaker grip! It really annoys me how much extra we pay for everything we buy in this wonderful country we live in. Oetiker 14100387 Side Jaw Compound Action Clamp Crimper Pincers Pliers Tool 1099 | eBay

Interesting shaped rudder design. Pleased the locals put the fire out so they didn't need to move the pilot before he was assessed.

Be very cautious hammering on your airframe because you can easily cause distortions. Use a pair of pinchers of the type used to squeeze ear clamps to cut the back of the rivet, pull out the stem, then drill carefully. There is one style of pincher that has an off-set jaw which pinches on the end as well as the side which are good for accessing tight spots. Bikeservice Motorcycle Double Ear Clamp Pliers, BS2904 | eBay

I started building mine with the intention of doing it once and well and removing no rivets at all. Tell him he is dreaming! I built twelve flaperons in one eight day stretch previously, but still mucked up some of the rivets into the trailing end of the ribs where the rivet tails clash, on the flaperon for my own build. They certainly were not the first ones I had to drill out. I had kept a list of all the drilled out rivets, having counted all my rivets I was able to know how many short the kit was supplied with. I came to the conclusion that rivets had not been budgeted for option upgrades like the extended baggage and long range tanks.

The front bulkhead of the adjustable seat is much lower and flatter, having only a rise in the middle to accommodate the stick. I can't see how you could have one adjustable seat and one standard one. The bucket uses some of the available height, But more significant for some fat arses or their fat arsed pax, they are quite narrow bum buckets too.

My god son owned half of it until 8 or 10 years ago. The boundary fence apparently went across the middle of it, not that it mattered much because the scrub was well and truly reclaiming it by that time anyway. He had done some Drifter training with Trevor so he probably flew over it a few times in that period. There is however what looks like a very well maintained strip close to the main road about 5 to 10 Km south of Leyburn on a farmstay property. I took the details off the sign on the gate and posted them on a thread here about country fly away trip destinations some time ago.

If you Cleco everything together including the nose skin that front hole will still not line up so drop the drill through the hole and rivet as usual. It is the same on every kit I have worked on. I think the hole in the rib is at fault, but cant remember for sure, take note as you put the nose skin on, whether to drill the rib or the top sheet.

It worked well for a painted fuselage, I wouldn't do it if I was planning to polish my skins ! There are little clamp marks, like fingernail clippings, along the underside of the sheets where the CNC machines clamp the sheets and these become the outside once the sheets are swapped. The primer and paint make them quite easy to miss but they would be very obvious on a polished surface.

They always have a much bigger gap at the bottom than the top, though I have never heard of a reason for it. Ron Hoey won a prize at Natfly for his cowling to spinner fit when he had completed his build, it was quite close at the top from memory. Ron do you have a photo or two of your cowling installation? I don't remember if you installed your cowling with in the fuselage or outside it.

Is that your wife Bob?

Your Gel coat is much more amateur than mine was, it will definitely need more than just sanding to make it ready to paint. Your wing tips are the same finish that the cowling was delivered in for some time previously.

The "duct" on the upper cowling is standard to take the air into the air box. The amateur fiberglass parts look much better after a sanding, it is itchy stuff to sand and wear a respirator to keep the glass out of your lungs.